cleaned clutch plates, still stuck

Hi All

Thanks for letting me view this site and get so many of my questions answered just by snooping around. I acquired a non-running 1972 commando (Previous owner says it's a combat) Today I got it running after it's been sitting for many years!! That was a great milestone. I have a question about my clutch. I followed all the advice in the many posts, I bought the tool, completely disassembled the clutch plates cleaned them all and reinstalled them as they were. Despite this, my clutch will not disengage, I tried adjusting the cable at the lever, I tried the screw in adjuster at the pressure plate. The plates are clean and oil free. Curiously, even when the tool is installed and the spring diaghram spins freely, I am unable to push the bike in gear with the clutch in. Am I missing something here? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks-Larry

take the plates out and try it.the center hub should spin free with the trans in neutral. it could be the bearing in the hub frozen

(hi windy) check the throw out arm that the cable connects to. It can slip out of position and flip up. then when you adjust the clutch, it's a false setting.

We need more details. You say you got it running. i assume that you are in neutral and that's all she wrote. When you pull the clutch lever do you see the diaphram flex out?

My first thought is the circlip behind the clutch hub. Even with everything else proper, the entire assembly will move on the main shaft with nothing holding it in place to release. Pull the clutch complete and inspect and compare to diagrams. To do this you will be removing the stator, rotor, and crank sprocket. Clutch hub and crank sprocket will slip off together with the chain. Part number 54, cupped locating washer, goes over this clip #53 to locate the clutch on the main shaft. This circlip is subject to shearing from over torquing the clutch hub nut #57. http://www.oldbritts.com/1972_g8.html

The second thought is the clutch release locking ring. You can check this through the inspection cover of the gearbox on the other side. Part number 35 seen here. http://www.oldbritts.com/1972_g7.html You may need to screw it back in making sure to line up the clutch release arm with the cable hole.

Get into photobucket.com and learn to post pictures. Very important to your success.

We'll be watching.

great advice guys, thanks.

Yes. the diaghram flexes enough that I was surprised when the clutch did not disengage. . And I will take pictures and photo bucket it next time. I will try all suggestions. Thanks-Larry

Desmo,

Forty years of soaking in oil can result in plates that simply will not clean, appearances to the contrary. If, after you've tried the excellent suggestions offered from the lads on the forum, you still find that you still can not clear the clutch (pull in the clutch and kick through with no resistance on the first kick), then I respectfully suggest that you replace the plates. Worked for me on my rebuilt Mk3, and I thought the original plates looked great.

A severly notched clutch center will give clutch sticking problems. The centers on 750s are not hardened and should not be used with Barnett or sintered bronze plates.

Thanks,

I am going to replace the plates (cheap and probably necessary anyway) before I keep banging my head against the wall. Thanks for all the advice.

desmo748s said:

Thanks,

I am going to replace the plates (cheap and probably necessary anyway) before I keep banging my head against the wall. Thanks for all the advice.

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The first thing would do is find the trouble instead of throwing parts at it. I would NOT replace them if they are the fiber one's as it came from new. if they are the bronze ones than you MIGHT think about a new set but probably not needed. if you insist on replacing them and they are the fiber ones I will gladly take them off your hand's as IMHO they are the best ones to use.

With the diaphragm tool fitted and pressure held on that so it spins like you say, the plates should be free, if the clutch centre or basket is notched it should still not prevent the bike being pushed as there would be only minimal pressure holding some of the the plates together. It seems very much like a seizure or jam somewhere from the gearbox input shaft to the gearbox output shaft when a gear selection is made but not when neutral is selected, this would be where I would concentrate on looking.

I will have some time tomorrow to re-examine everything again. Keep everyone posted, Thanks

I too would look at all the options before buying new plates. My plates sat around for 30 years and are working fine. The clutch is a temperamental thing on the Norton, and it must be set up right to make it work. If you have someone that has experience in your area, it may be worth another look by another set of eyes. The clutch release arm, item 33 here, http://www.oldbritts.com/1971_g7.html , can be hard to figure out, and then the cable and clutch lever setup is another issue. When you get them set up correctly they work real nice, but if not, it can make strange problems.

For sure I would check that the main shaft and sleeve gear is not locked together. Items 11 and 16 here, http://www.oldbritts.com/1971_g7.html

I'd have someone else look at it unless you are really sure you know what is going on there.

Dave
69S

I really think people should post where they are located when asking for help.

Just imagine if you're going thru all this when there might be someone in the same town that could over and help in person ........

richrd said:

I really think people should post where they are located

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yea Richard , It would be nice if people would fill out there profile so we know where there at :mrgreen: I will guess your in kneebrasky :lol:

Re: clutch working!!

OK, sorry for being such a newbie. I read the manual, and online diagrams and all the clutch posts here, but I failed to see on the first teardown, that the last two (innermost) clutch plates were stuck together so badly that I thought it was a thick plate just like the outermost pressure plate. I actually had to gently use a screwdriver to separate them. I wasn't sure how many plates to expect because the manuals specify different numbers based on the model of bike. That was also my first clutch surgery so I had nothing to compare it to. I got everything apart and back together this afternoon and the clutch works great now. I am located in Queens and have been told about John's cycles near here. I just filled out the rest of my profile, didn't realize there was another area to fill out. Thanks for all the advice-Sorry for the rookie mistakes-first Norton, and I got it in non-running condition. =Larry

Cool. Doesn't it feel good when it's working right?

Dave
69S

now that you have it working with out buying parts I will recommend you spend a few dollars on a clutch push rod seal in the near future. it will save you more grief of gear box oil getting in the clutch and causing this again.