Changing Out Fork Gators?

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Dan1950

Dan1950

1974 MK II Roadster
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I am going to change out the long European style gators for the short American type.

Can this be done one fork tube at a time with the front wheel on the ground? Is there enough travel in the lower leg to clear the lower fork tree?

If I have to drop out the front wheel it will have to wait until I can swap ends on my lift to allow the wheel to drop through the trap door.
 
Dan1950 said:
Can this be done one fork tube at a time with the front wheel on the ground?
Click to expand...

The wheel really needs to be removed as the wheel spindle/axle must be withdrawn.
It's easy enough to jack up the front end (or tie the rear end down to the bench?) so the wheel, mudguard and both sliders (or complete fork legs) can be removed.
 
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Dan,
I normally compress the rear swing arm with ratchet straps to get more clearance for the front end. Place a jack under the frame cross brace near the front iso mount, then proceed with removing the wheel and mud guard. As Les pointed out, the wheel has to come off.
Tom
 
L.A.B. said:
The wheel really needs to be removed as the wheel spindle/axle must be withdrawn.
It's easy enough to jack up the front end (or tie the rear end down to the bench?) so the wheel, mudguard and both sliders (or complete fork legs) can be removed.
Click to expand...
Ok then I'll wait until I can push the bike onto the lift swingarm first,. I can then tie down the rear end in the wheel chock and drop the front wheel through the trap door on the lift.
 
The front end only has to be raised just enough for the wheel to be rolled out from under the mudguard and doesn't need to be "dropped" clear.
Also, as the mudguard bridge has to be detached from both sliders anyway then with the mudguard removed it only needs the weight of the forks/front end to be lifted from the wheel so there's no need to position the wheel over the trap door.
 
So, front end jacked up, the wheel removed with the bike on the floor in just a few minutes.
Changing Out Fork Gators?
 
Yup, remove fender/mudguard, remove caliper, remove front axle, bike rotates back on rear wheel, remove front wheel.
No need to jack it up with fender removed. Has to come off any ways to remove fork sliders.
Loosen top caps, loosen pinch bolts. Remove top caps, consult manual as these are attached to the damper rods.
Lower fork leg down one at a time, leaving headlight ears in position. Replace parts as necessary, reinstall fork leg.
Doing one side at a time helps to keep the fork ears insitu.
 
It should only be necessary to drop the sliders off the stanchions (lower, and upper bushes and slider extension) to change the gaiters.
 
Yes. True. For some inexplainable reason I never think of that.
 
L.A.B. said:
So, front end jacked up, the wheel removed with the bike on the floor in just a few minutes.
Changing Out Fork Gators?
Click to expand...
Les, good pic. I'll need to do this shortly. Is your Jack positioned under the front isolastic case? Is that a piece of wood between it and the jack?
 
Mart UK said:
I'll need to do this shortly. Is your Jack positioned under the front isolastic case?
Is that a piece of wood between it and the jack?
Click to expand...

Yes and yes, however, that was done for demonstration purposes to show it isn't all that difficult to remove the wheel but the bottle jack under the Iso. is a little precarious so I suggest you prop it up more securely if you are going to be pulling the forks about.
 
Like you said, @Dan1950 get it on the lift - and then up on the center stand. A couple of tie downs around each side of the rear hoop to plant the rear tire on the lift and you are good to go. I have used this method many times with no issue.
 
Might as well change the fluid. Any advice on procedure while I have the tubes out of the triple trees?
 
Dan1950 said:
Might as well change the fluid. Any advice on procedure while I have the tubes out of the triple trees?
Click to expand...
You don't need to remove the stanchions from the yokes
Just remove the wheel, mudguard, sliders and change the gators
 
Dan1950 said:
I am going to change out the long European style gators for the short American type.

Can this be done one fork tube at a time with the front wheel on the ground? Is there enough travel in the lower leg to clear the lower fork tree?

If I have to drop out the front wheel it will have to wait until I can swap ends on my lift to allow the wheel to drop through the trap door.
Click to expand...
Dan,
Watch out for the cheap knock-off fork boots as they slip on easily but don’t stay on the fork leg. I was sent a set and had to zip-tie them to stay in place. I have since replaced them with the ones from AN.
Mike
 
baz said:
You don't need to remove the stanchions from the yokes
Just remove the wheel, mudguard, sliders and change the gators
Click to expand...
Yes I'm aware of that This is not my first rodeo, it's just been a while. I was just wondering if the individual tubes would drop enough without removing the wheel.
 
YING said:
Dan,
Watch out for the cheap knock-off fork boots as they slip on easily but don’t stay on the fork leg. I was sent a set and had to zip-tie them to stay in place. I have since replaced them with the ones from AN.
Mike
Click to expand...
I bought mine from Andover Norton.
 
I don't know if the chrome on current fork tubes is better than the originals, but I went to the long gaitors for a reason a long time ago. There was a lot of wear on the tubes. The chrome was worn off and visible at the front-facing surface above the short gaitor. This was the size of a US quarter.
The road grit becomes a grinding paste rubbed in by the stiff shorties. I do not see a wear problem at all now with the long gaitors and fork tubes by Forking by Frank. It doesn't look original but was a common "period mod".
Russ
 
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I'm pulling the tubes today to replace the gators.

I might as well change the fluid. Can I just upturn the removed tube and pour out the old fluid?

What is the refill capacity?

Any recommendations on a suitable oil?

I have always used ATF.
 
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