Chains

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wickedxawesome

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Aug 30, 2009
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I recently bought a chain for my 1970 750 commando. With the sizing conversion it comes out to a 530 (right?). I bought a did 503va chain which is an oring chain, and since it has the orings, it is too wide for the bike. What chains are you guys running/recommend?
 
If you want to run an "O" ring chain you need a 520 chain and sprockets. A 530 "O" ring will not clear the primary case and is extremely close on the chain guard. Even a heavy duty 530 will cause problems. You can turn down the original sprockets or buy 520 replacement sprockets.
 
JimC said:
If you want to run an "O" ring chain you need a 520 chain and sprockets. A 530 "O" ring will not clear the primary case and is extremely close on the chain guard. Even a heavy duty 530 will cause problems. You can turn down the original sprockets or buy 520 replacement sprockets.
Click to expand...

Even the 520 x-ring I use is a tad close to the case so I put a spacer under the tranny sprocket to give a little extra clearance.
 
I think I have a 530 DID chain on mine now. Can't remember for sure but the box in the link above looks familiar. Seems OK. I don't get many miles frm a chain, probably because I hate oiling them.
 
I didn't believe buying a chain could be so much of a pain in the arse, the standard DID 50[530] chain fits ,the DID 530 NZ rubs on the cases and will not fit with the spring clip joining link, the medium duty RK 50KS CHAIN will also rub.I think the DID catalouge rates their standard 530 chain up to about 450cc :roll:
 
i didn't think it would be such a pain either! buying a 520 and switching sprockets? naw, how about a chain that fits. A GOOD strong chain at that. So, should I return the chain for all my money back and buy a genuine renolds 530 or do you guys have any other suggestions? thanks.
 
Fitted a Regina 530RS2-114 . It was too close to the primary cover, so I returned it to exchange for the same size as fitted origonally. Was assured the 530 was correct size so back home 160km and fitted, only way to clear primary was to reverse the joining link. Done the 500mile oil change at the weekend and for a reason I wont go into on this post I stripped the gearbox and while I had it apart I spaced the primary case out with an extra thick gasket, about 60th + measured the centre mounting and spaced with correct thickness shims. Refitted chain and link around the right way, clears case o.k. but link just nicks the chain guard. In reverse position it just nicked the gearbox. Will test on the road this weekend. Have to repair and paint black the correct guard so am not worried if the chrome one gets marked.

Ian
 
Ian, replace the spring joining link with a rivitted type,alot harder to service your chain but gives you more clearance with no chance of knocking the clip off if it does rub,which it will.
 
Splatt. That is my next plan if it still touches the primary but as you say it is a pain to service the chain. The rivet joining link comes with the chain and I put it in the draw with all the other left over bits as I don't realy intend to flog it to much, have the 1200gs to do that on but at my age I should know better . I am going to pull the chain guard away from the chain when I finish playing with the gearbox/clutch rod seal. I will take your advice after thinking about it and I will fit the rivet link, dont want to end up on the side of the road looking for parts of the joining link.

Ian
 
When i have had a problem it has been the joining link pins which rub, these being longer (wider) than the general chain pins.
Apart from general chain width it seems on some brands of chain the link pins have more meat outside the spring clip so I have been known to gently reduce the spring clip end of the link pins with a grinder - making sure to keep a good shoulder for the joining link.
No grief - so far.
Rivetted links would be more reliable but i like the convenience of the spring clip.
 
I had a Tsubaki for my last chain and had to grind the pins on the master link else it would cut into the primary case. Other than that it was a nice chain.
 
I'm using Iwis now. The 'ordinary' Superlife is very good quality and Renolds, sadly these days isn't. One pays for the name on the box.

http://www.sprocketsunlimited.com/IwisChain.html

There are no clearance problems on my Mk111 using a spring link.

Sprockets Unlimited in the UK are a good helpful source of advice.
 
Anybody esle use Iwis? i think that might be the chain. I dont want to have to grind my chain to fit. haha.
 
The 520 conversion is a snap. The front sprocket is used off of a Dominator (per DomiRacer) and it takes less than 10 minutes to have the rear sprocket narrowed at the local machine shop. Then you can run a 520 X-ring that will outlast 8 conventional chains. When the chain doesn't stretch/wear-in, the sprokets last longer, as well. Mine is a MkIIa. I went with a 21t front sprocket and now, wish I'd gone with a 22t for chain spacing and a little taller gearing.

Z
 
I installed a Tsubaki 530 ProGold (conventional solid roller) chain on my Mk3. This chain is rated at just under 8000 pounds tension, which puts it at the high end of the conventional 530 chains available. I'm still breaking in the Mk3, so I can't comment on longevity, but the chain does not touch either the primary case or the chain guard. Powersports is closing them out at under 50 bucks (I paid 100 bucks a few months ago).

I've also ordered some rivet links. Are these installed with a standard chain-breaker? I've only used spring clip links in the past.
 
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