Chain oiler

I want to cap off the cahin oiler on my bike, because I'm pretty sure the only thing it's good for is making a mess of the rear wheel. I know that many of you have already capped it off, based on prior posts. I'm just wondering what the best way to approach this project.

Decemberist said:

I want to cap off the cahin oiler on my bike, because I'm pretty sure the only thing it's good for is making a mess of the rear wheel. I know that many of you have already capped it off, based on prior posts. I'm just wondering what the best way to approach this project.

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I washed clean the aluminum hose reducer, filled it with black (oil resisting) RTV, and assembled the oiler to look still intact. Not a single drop of engine oil gets by, I use moly chain lube sprayed on every 2-300 miles. Cheap, simple, effective.

Mine is pinched shut and brazed. It would require getting the tank really clean. If there is a radiator shop where you live (does anybody still have one?) they could boil it out and close that tube up for you. Otherwise it is a new skill to learn!

Russ

Mine has a fine thread bolt tightly in place then a hose clamp to put pressure to it . No leaks.

You can take a short section of 3/8 hose then plug one end with a short piece of 3/8 diameter bar stock (aluminum or steel). Using two hose clamps, clamp the hose section to the oil tank fitting.

Recently, I completely removed the chain oiler tube fitting that was brazed to the oil tank return line. Once removed, there is about an 1/8 inch hole in the return line that I tig welded closed. It makes for a clean looking installation.

To also remove clutter I did like Peter says but just screwed in a bolt which is rather easier that shoving a rod in and then maybe clamping. Norton oiler is from the earlier days when motorcycles were for primary cheap travel and requires very messy amounts of oil to actually extend chain like and out chains don't realty require lube for the friction feature directly but to flush our the line/pin dust that really does the chains in. Best would be internal air pressure blowing and cooling linksd dry as a bone. For stock looks leave the dripper showing off it history.