Chain Length

Cowboy Don · Sep 15, 2011

I'm going to pick up a new final drive chain after work today but don't want to end up with one too short. Does anyone know the minimum chain link length I'll need? It wouldn't be over 110L would it?

Hobot · Sep 15, 2011

99 links average, but depends a bit on the main shaft sprocket size. 110 is plenty to trim to suit. Get spare master links while its on you mind.

Cowboy Don · Sep 15, 2011

Thanks Hobot,

They're available in lengths of 114 so that will be enough.
Is it ok to run an o-ring or x-ring or are they too wide? Just wondering why go the expense of the CNW conversion if o-ring and x-ring are available in 530. They're not much more than a heavy duty 530 so I thought I may go that route.

openroad · Sep 16, 2011

Guess they are just wide enough to chew into your primary. Even a 'heavy duty' can be dang close to touching. I just put on a regular duty 100 link chain from O.B., fit OK lengthwise when adjusters all the way forward.

pete.v · Sep 16, 2011

Standdrd duty (not havy duty) chain is recomended. Anywhere from 98 t0 102 lonks depending on your gearing.

rpatton · Sep 16, 2011

Cowboy Don said:
Is it ok to run an o-ring or x-ring or are they too wide? Just wondering why go the expense of the CNW conversion if o-ring and x-ring are available in 530. They're not much more than a heavy duty 530 so I thought I may go that route.

I've been using a 530 o-ring chain for a long time without any clearance problem. I've known a few other people doing the same. You need to be careful shimming the primary and not over tightening the center-nut, which can warp the inner cover. MkIII's don't seem to be bothered by 530 o-ring chains.
Been using Regina's medium duty ORS2 which is supposed to be more narrow, but it seems to be able to handle the brute horsepower of my 850 up to now. The rivet masterlink may be shorter than the clip type. I happen to have a new chain coming today, I'll measure them both.

"OR" SERIES
* O-Ring chain for use on street and dirt bikes up to 600cc.
* Designed for bikes with narrow chain guides; thin side plates provide reduced weight.
* High carbon alloy pins and improved O-ring for greater wear resistance.
* ORN, ORS, ORS2, ORS3 feature gold side plates and copper rollers.
* ORSBX, ORS2BX are unplated with a natural metal finish to side plates and rollers.

Cowboy Don · Sep 16, 2011

Thanks Guys,

That's some good info. I picked up a DID 530NZ chain before I got home and read these posts. I'll have to measure and compare it to the current chain before I rip it out of the wrapping.
I'm surprised a standard chain would be up to task, but if that's what people have run with success, who am I to scoff at a saving money.
Pvisseriii, any idea why the standard is recommended over heavy duty or o-ring?

pete.v · Sep 16, 2011

Cowboy Don said:
Thanks Guys,

That's some good info. I picked up a DID 530NZ chain before I got home and read these posts. I'll have to measure and compare it to the current chain before I rip it out of the wrapping.
I'm surprised a standard chain would be up to task, but if that's what people have run with success, who am I to scoff at a saving money.
Pvisseriii, any idea why the standard is recommended over heavy duty or o-ring?

Mostly due to width and clearance. We are only dealing with 50 to 60 HP if we're lucky. Spinning the extra mass of a HD chain is just not necessary and is overkill, an undue expense, and the lubrication requirements are the same.

I run a 520 oring (gold, pretty). It also is not needed yet not have to worry about lubing every 1000 miles is nice. Also, the rear sprockets are quite soft and quite subject to wear. And, of course, being the brake hub also, not cheap. Trimming them down to 1/4 inch is also asking for accelerated wear back there.

I find myself pursuing the web for a good rear hub to possibly revert to the "standard" regular chain. New oring chains out of the box are as stiff as old Gerties shit and consume great amounts of HP to turn if not conditioned/loosened up. General a dip in mineral spirits.

chapmanmd · Sep 16, 2011

Those folks concerned about shaving ounces of weight also think about the 520.

bluto · Sep 16, 2011

rpatton said:
Cowboy Don said:

Is it ok to run an o-ring or x-ring or are they too wide? Just wondering why go the expense of the CNW conversion if o-ring and x-ring are available in 530. They're not much more than a heavy duty 530 so I thought I may go that route.

Click to expand...

I've been using a 530 o-ring chain for a long time without any clearance problem. I've known a few other people doing the same. You need to be careful shimming the primary and not over tightening the center-nut, which can warp the inner cover. MkIII's don't seem to be bothered by 530 o-ring chains.
Been using Regina's medium duty ORS2 which is supposed to be more narrow, but it seems to be able to handle the brute horsepower of my 850 up to now. The rivet masterlink may be shorter than the clip type. I happen to have a new chain coming today, I'll measure them both.

snip

hmm, interesting! would be much less expense and hassle than converting to 520 in order to run an O ring chain. I am currently using a fairly wide RK 530 without problems (with the master link clip on the inside) so that just might work
FWIW some of the Regina specs (including the pin length of 24.5mm) are at http://www.reginachain.it/eng/products/production_range/scheda_or.shtml
so are you using the rivet type master link?? looks like the Regina chain comes w/ both rivet and clip types

splatt · Sep 16, 2011

Cowboy Don said:
Thanks Guys,

That's some good info. I picked up a DID 530NZ chain before I got home and read these posts. I'll have to measure and compare it to the current chain before I rip it out of the wrapping.
I'm surprised a standard chain would be up to task, but if that's what people have run with success, who am I to scoff at a saving money.
Pvisseriii, any idea why the standard is recommended over heavy duty or o-ring?

I tried one of thoose , a very wide chain, rubed on chain guard and primary cover, gearbox ect. Replaced it with 2 std DID CHAINS , when it needs adjusting take it off and clean, fit other chain, untill it needs adjusting, instead of stretching one chain to the end of it life on your sprockets.
100 links roughly

Hobot · Sep 16, 2011

Chain strength ani't the real issue but teeth wear is so if you can keep 530 width teeth you will be saving in drum and sprocket replacements along with chains. O stands for Obsolete, just compare moving it with an X ring. The ones that have had 530 sealed chain rub said it stopped shortly with merely hidden cosmetic scars.

Chain wear is best accessed by lifting links out valley at back of sprocket to see where they bare in use and go by you sense of power strain on the teeth to judge when enough is enough economy out of that chain. Chain tension has no effect on this test nor where links wear on teeth.

Cowboy Don · Sep 16, 2011

I'm sold. Swapped the NZ for a standard this morning, will throw it on today ready for the club run tomorrow morning through the hills.
I'll look into these Regina o-rings next time.
Found a set of Norton t-shirts at Harris Scarfes (Aussie department store chain) today. One features a photo of a Manx but has "Dominator" written on it. Can't stand this random shit, but at $15, I've got two, the Manx and another showing the starting grid with a bunch of Manxes doing a GP start.

Per G · Sep 17, 2011

I use 100 links chain and it works with 21-22 sprocket.

Regards,
Per

rpatton · Sep 21, 2011

bluto said:
I've been using a 530 o-ring chain for a long time without any clearance problem. I've known a few other people doing the same. You need to be careful shimming the primary and not over tightening the center-nut, which can warp the inner cover. MkIII's don't seem to be bothered by 530 o-ring chains.
Been using Regina's medium duty ORS2 which is supposed to be more narrow, but it seems to be able to handle the brute horsepower of my 850 up to now. The rivet masterlink may be shorter than the clip type. I happen to have a new chain coming today, I'll measure them both.

snip

hmm, interesting! would be much less expense and hassle than converting to 520 in order to run an O ring chain. I am currently using a fairly wide RK 530 without problems (with the master link clip on the inside) so that just might work
FWIW some of the Regina specs (including the pin length of 24.5mm) are at http://www.reginachain.it/eng/products/production_range/scheda_or.shtml
so are you using the rivet type master link?? looks like the Regina chain comes w/ both rivet and clip types

I finally got around to measuring the Regina 530 ORS o-ring chain. The chain is 0.978" (24.84mm) wide at the pins. The rivet masterlink is 0.925" (23.50mm) and clip type is 0.980" (24.89mm). The master link dimensions are misleading because the pins are staked nearly flat on the back plate compared to the rest of the chain, so the rivet link comes out at right about the same height as the rest of the chain on the rivet side, you can go with 0.978" as the working width of the chain. The clip masterlink stands proud by about 40thou on the clip side. I got around 10,000mi out of the old chain and adjusted it 2-3 times.

batrider · Sep 21, 2011

The stock standard Renold chain is about 22.4mm wide. Still I prefer to turn the master link around so the clip is on the inside ('72 combat). Years ago I tried a Diamond heavy duty chain which had very thick sideplates. It rubbed and created a nice metal paste so I went back to Renold. Next time I need a chain I plan to try the standard Tsubaki 530 QR non o-ring chain which is still readily available but I think it has been discontinued. I think just about any standard chain even like RK or EK would probably be fine too.

98 links for std. 19T combat sprocket.

bluto · Sep 24, 2011

rpatton said:
bluto said:

I finally got around to measuring the Regina 530 ORS o-ring chain. The chain is 0.978" (24.84mm) wide at the pins. The rivet masterlink is 0.925" (23.50mm) and clip type is 0.980" (24.89mm). The master link dimensions are misleading because the pins are staked nearly flat on the back plate compared to the rest of the chain, so the rivet link comes out at right about the same height as the rest of the chain on the rivet side, you can go with 0.978" as the working width of the chain. The clip masterlink stands proud by about 40thou on the clip side. I got around 10,000mi out of the old chain and adjusted it 2-3 times.

Click to expand...

thanks very much for the info and taking the time to mesure, I'll compare that to the RK I'm running and see if it works.....