Chain case oil mistake

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Whatever you do
Please don't be tempted to knock it open with a hammer and center punch
 
Any of the three inspection caps can be removed to refill the chaincase if you have difficulty loosening the upper cap (used to check primary chain tension).
 
Heres one option for primary plate cap tool:
www.eurojamb.com

Norton Primary Plug Tool SET 750 850 Commando Matchless G15 P11

Beautiful STAINLESS copies of the factory Norton plug tools, I believe. Convex-ground to suit the outside curvature of the plugs, so no damage and no drama. Can be used with 3/8" socket drive or end wrench, both hex and socket on reverse side. Suitable to for the chaincase plugs of all Commando...
www.eurojamb.com www.eurojamb.com

I previously used a suita ble washer and an adjustable wrench on these fastners, here is the one I have now:
 
As far as removing those chaincase plugs, I have a couple open end wrenches that fit real nice, one is a tappet wrench. Anything that will fit fairly tight in the slot will work, no need to spend big bucks unless you like to. New plugs are available pretty reasonable.

Yes, please read the 'owners manual' it will explain all the different fluids and places to fill, empty and maintain the fluids, and the fluid types. Many have their own preferences. It's not magic and every Norton owner should be proficient in them. Primary chaincase cover is a project into itself. I like to remove it to clean it once in a while and renew the gasket and coat it with silicone, just a smear and don't over tighten the central tightening bolt. Again, read the manual, it's all in there.
 
DogT said:
As far as removing those chaincase plugs, I have a couple open end wrenches that fit real nice, one is a tappet wrench. Anything that will fit fairly tight in the slot will work, no need to spend big bucks unless you like to. New plugs are available pretty reasonable.

Yes, please read the 'owners manual' it will explain all the different fluids and places to fill, empty and maintain the fluids, and the fluid types. Many have their own preferences. It's not magic and every Norton owner should be proficient in them. Primary chaincase cover is a project into itself. I like to remove it to clean it once in a while and renew the gasket and coat it with silicone, just a smear and don't over tighten the central tightening bolt. Again, read the manual, it's all in there.
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If a LOT of oil came out of the drain plug Then I'm afraid you must replace the crank case seal. It's a job but can be done in a day .
 
Torontonian said:
If a LOT of oil came out of the drain plug Then I'm afraid you must replace the crank case seal. It's a job but can be done in a day .
Click to expand...

Sorry for my ignorance, I'm still reading through the manuals and wondering which seal would need replacing. Is it part 36a from the parts list here, or are you referring to something else?

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk

36A (Oil Seal)
OIL SEAL - TACHO HOUSING

Thanks!
 
Nortorious said:
Sorry for my ignorance, I'm still reading through the manuals and wondering which seal would need replacing. Is it part 36a from the parts list here, or are you referring to something else?

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk

36A (Oil Seal)
OIL SEAL - TACHO HOUSING

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Well not quite...but no worries that's the beauty of this forum and the internet. It would number 7, that if bad would let engine oil into the primary side chain case.
 
Thanks everyone! Between the guidance here and the manuals I think I have a good idea of what needs to be done. Funny how a small question leads to a full day project.

This thread was a great reference too.

crankshaft oil seal

I installed a cNw e-start last summer, which came with a new crankshaft oil seal. I was surprised (dismayed) that the old one literally fell out of the case in my hand with no prying required. I put the new one in with some Yamabond goop around it. No leaks for the 300 miles I got to ride last...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
You need to slow down friend. Learn how to sit back, look at the situation in front of you, look at the manuals and the diagrams, and think through logically what it is you’re looking at, how things work, how things interact and what the possible ‘cause and effects‘ of different things are.

If not you‘re going to damage something and in the worst case scenario that might be yourself if riding an unsafe machine...
 
Fast Eddie said:
You need to slow down friend. Learn how to sit back, look at the situation in front of you, look at the manuals and the diagrams, and think through logically what it is you’re looking at, how things work, how things interact and what the possible ‘cause and effects‘ of different things are.

If not you‘re going to damage something and in the worst case scenario that might be yourself if riding an unsafe machine...
Click to expand...
Funny you picked that up, because it's true. Good advice. I've been working on bikes for about 15 years and in all that time the lesson that has been hardest for me to learn is to slow down. Still a work in progress. I have, on more than one occasion, not waited for a part or tool and ended up doing damage that caused me more work. In most cases it's been lower stakes. This is a bike I've wanted for a very long time and it's a bigger challenge. Over torquing a bolt could be disastrous, no grease on the geese nipple, and on and on..

For what it's worth I spend a a lot more time moving slow in the garage and looking more than wrenching right now. The challenge, I found, is the interaction of parts on this bike has some fundamental differences that I'm learning. This forum has been a big help with that.

So anyway, nice call out and a good reminder that one of the main reasons I got this beast wasn't just to ride it. It was to force myself to slow down my mind and forget the outside world while I focused on one thing at a time. It's my mental health program and if I don't mess it up too bad it's cheaper than a therapist.
 
baz said:
Whatever you do
Please don't be tempted to knock it open with a hammer and center punch
Click to expand...
I'll say I was tempted to try a large washer and pliers but sense got the better of me even with that plan. I shudder to take a hammer to any of these bolts. I ended up getting the special tool and some new seals to replace while I have it open. It'll be a few days but I have the fuel tank off for repair so it's not going anywhere for a bit anyway.
 
Nortorious said:
So anyway, nice call out and a good reminder that one of the main reasons I got this beast wasn't just to ride it. It was to force myself to slow down my mind and forget the outside world while I focused on one thing at a time. It's my mental health program and if I don't mess it up too bad it's cheaper than a therapist.
Click to expand...
I don’t know if it will really work out cheaper than a therapist in the long term, that part could go either way! But it will most certainly be better for you than a therapist, seriously.

These bikes are old skool. They’re not designed by computers and built by robots. They were basically hand built, but before ‘hand built’ was a thing. So their assembly, disassembly, and operation is really quite intuitive, for the most part at least.

To enhance your therapy, I’d also prescribe a copy of ‘Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance’.

Go slow and enjoy !
 
Fast Eddie said:
I don’t know if it will really work out cheaper than a therapist in the long term, that part could go either way! But it will most certainly be better for you than a therapist, seriously.

These bikes are old skool. They’re not designed by computers and built by robots. They were basically hand built, but before ‘hand built’ was a thing. So their assembly, disassembly, and operation is really quite intuitive, for the most part at least.

To enhance your therapy, I’d also prescribe a copy of ‘Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance’.

Go slow and enjoy !
Click to expand...
Haha good advice. I read my first copy of Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance when I was 17. Didn't really fully get it then, but I liked it. I found after 40 that I enjoyed my time in the garage just as much as time on the bike, if not more. I'm yet to achieve the oneness with the bike where I can feel and hear problems, but it's a journey.

I work in an environment of frequent crises and emergency. Patience isn't always rewarded. This is my antidote and I'm trying to retrain the brain. Thanks for the reminder to slow down and enjoy it. This is the first bike I plan to have for decades and while I'm really excited about it, the truth is there's no rush. I'm glad to have the folks here to help me learn all the wisdom not in the manuals.
 
Before going after the crankseal, you should try draining as much oil out of primary as possible, removing cover if needed. Then refill as book states and run the bike a few days. Then try checking primary cover oil level bolt to see if you have excess level oil inside. If so, the crank seal is likely cause. This will contaminate the clutch plates leading to sticky clutch releases. If left to leak, oil will fill up primary and start coming out the final drive chain sprocket opening, spewing oil over back tire.

To access the crank seal, clutch needs to come off (requires a clutch spring compressor), and the alternator stator, rotor need to come off (a common steering wheel type puller can be used for this).
So, there are lots of knock on steps to get through to get at the seal, and tools to acquire. The clutch compressor can be bought for about $30 or made out of 3" diameter ABS drain pipe end cap (get the Haynes manual for full description how to make).
 
Tornado said:
Before going after the crankseal, you should try draining as much oil out of primary as possible, removing cover if needed. Then refill as book states and run the bike a few days. Then try checking primary cover oil level bolt to see if you have excess level oil inside. If so, the crank seal is likely cause. This will contaminate the clutch plates leading to sticky clutch releases. If left to leak, oil will fill up primary and start coming out the final drive chain sprocket opening, spewing oil over back tire.

To access the crank seal, clutch needs to come off (requires a clutch spring compressor), and the alternator stator, rotor need to come off (a common steering wheel type puller can be used for this).
So, there are lots of knock on steps to get through to get at the seal, and tools to acquire. The clutch compressor can be bought for about $30 or made out of 3" diameter ABS drain pipe end cap (get the Haynes manual for full description how to make).
Click to expand...
Thanks! This is very helpful. I found that the engine oil was overfilled which makes me wonder what else was going on..so full drained the engine and crank today. I like your idea of draining the primary in case it was contaminated. The bike has been sitting a long time so I'll probably do the seal as suggested while in there. Then fill it with ATF type F and see if it ends up with oil mixed in after riding a while.

It looks like tires will be my next task. I just ran the DOT age and they are almost 10 years old and have been sitting. Appear to be brand new Avon Roadriders which is a shame, but I'm just going to swap them out for new versions of the same tire. Don't think I'm ready to dive into a rim job any time soon.
 
Nortorious said:
I'll say I was tempted to try a large washer and pliers but sense got the better of me even with that plan. I shudder to take a hammer to any of these bolts. I ended up getting the special tool and some new seals to replace while I have it open. It'll be a few days but I have the fuel tank off for repair so it's not going anywhere for a bit anyway.
Click to expand...
I have in the past used a couple of large washers (enough to fit the slot tightly) held with mole grips. Then a screwdriver or similar can be passed through the centre hole of the washers to gently lever either way, without the need for any shocks....
 
The Andover Norton inspection cap removal tool can be ruined if your cap has been over tightened. It isnt terribly strong. Used properly
it works fine. A washer that just barely fits the slot and then is moved by a big adjustable is the way to go.
Experience speaking here :-(
 
EstuaryBoy said:
I have in the past used a couple of large washers (enough to fit the slot tightly) held with mole grips. Then a screwdriver or similar can be passed through the centre hole of the washers to gently lever either way, without the need for any shocks....
Click to expand...
Yup, flat washers designed to fit 5/8" bolt (for the timing plug) & 3/4" (for the chain inspection/fill plug) bolts & an adjustable wrench work great
 
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