center mount oil tank

Does anyone have a picture of how the oil tank is mounted on a '69 or '70 S model or Roadster ? Specifically the bushing between the frame and the upper mounting tab. The rolled edge of the gusset (between the tubes that slant down along the front edge of the side covers) keeps the top mount on the oil tank from bolting up tight.

The part number for the tank is 06-1140. Neither the parts book (10-00041) nor the manual show a picture. The parts book lists a bolt (06-0652) and a sleeve (00-0636 (sic)), but doesn't have an illustration.

Thanks

Greg

Greg

I've got a couple of photos of a centrally mounted Commando tank that's out of the bike if that will help--if so email me as shown below



Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net

kraakevik said:

I've got a couple of photos of a centrally mounted Commando tank that's out of the bike if that will help--if so email me as shown below

Click to expand...

Thanks, but I have (well, had) the tank out and when putting it back thought that there has to be something better than a slice of fuel line around the bolt for the bushing in the top mount. What did you have on your bike ?

Greg

The bottom of the tank mounts on the top of the battery tray and there are 2 short spacers between the tank bottom lip and the tray, also a sort of fold over lock between the 2 bolts.





The top tongue also has a spacer about 1/4" long between the tongue and the web on the frame. Here's the spacer on the tank.



If you want a picture of it mounted I can probably get it.

The rolled edge of the gusset (between the tubes that slant down along the front edge of the side covers) keeps the top mount on the oil tank from bolting up tight.

Click to expand...

If I recall, a spacer goes on the bolt between the frame and the oil tank tab to allow this to be bolted.

I got this picture apparently while (Dave?) was sending his more complete set. However this shows the center bolt. I just used a few washers instead of the proper (slightly longer) spacer to get just a wee bit more clearance for the air filter rubber sleeves (which can use all the clearance I can give them).

Ted Lang

Yeah, I have to put the carbs on last to get my air filter and gaskets on.

I have done the same before the last time. I forgot to do it this time and wound up tearing one of the boots. (Fortunately I had a spare). It almost makes you want a Honda. After a little uncharacteristic cussing, I worked out a new "trick" to mount the boots last, after the filter and carbs, as god intended. First, you goop up both ends of the rubber boots with silicone rubber lubricant (not Glue). Spark plug boot silicone works well. Then slide a wide flat thin piece of aluminum siding sheet metal over the two big air holes in the chrome air filter cover. Now you can mount the rubber boots onto the carburetors. The air filter side of the boots should be able to be maneuvered with the flange part staying flat against the sheet metal since it is lubricated and it won't bunch up in the holes since they are covered. Slide the flange ends so they are right over where the air holes would be in the airbox plate, and then withdraw the aluminum plate from underneath them. The flanges of the rubber will stay on top of the now exposed air box chrome plate and the rest will squish right into place and not come off by themselves either. At least it worked for me.

Maybe there is a better way?

Here's a picture of the top tongue and the spacer on mine mounted between the right side dzus fastener and the bolt for the left side panel.



And here's the boots on mine, you can see they are verrry compressed. I have tried all ways to Sunday to put them on between the carbs and the plate, but I have just found it's easier in the long run if I just put the carbs on last. Saves a lot of swearing and throwing tools across the county.



Dave

Thanks guys. I'm a bit surprised that the spacer is solid rather than rubber, but if it works...

Definitely mount the carbs last.

Greg

Thanks for that advice Ted Lang! I did it and it worked great! I also bent a thin piece of 1/8 rod with a rounded the end so I could use it to manipulate the boots. (Bent at 90 degrees about 1/2 inch from the end.) I have the baffled air filter plate so it goes in pretty hard. Your trick of lubing up the boots and putting a thin plate in the way of the holes worked wonders as I am sure you correctly deduced the gods intended.
Dan.

Yes to modern rubber lubricants. Sex stuff like astro glide another newer option but no one ever talks about that . :roll: