Caster bean oil flush

Take one tablespoon in the evening and call me if lucky to hit the toilet next morning. May help to place heat pad on lower abdomen as caster oil is only one that is drawn to hottest areas.

White spirit (UK)[note 1] or mineral spirits (US),[1][2][3] also known as mineral turpentine, turpentine substitute, petroleum spirits, solvent naphtha (petroleum), varsol, Stoddard solvent,[4][5] or, generically, "paint thinner", is a petroleum-derived clear, transparent liquid used as a common organic solvent in painting and decorating.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit

Acetone, Methylene Chloride and Benzene are used to extract caster bean oil.

Glow plug model aircraft fuel works a treat too, especially heated.
Glow fuel is a mixture of methanol, nitromethane, and oil.

wd40 has about 50% refined Stoddard solvent component.

So for special occasions of extreme heated engine events - if still running after - keep running with open drain plug and pour in one or more of the above till mostly clear and use the dirty collection to start big brush fires.

Take one tablespoon in the evening and call me if lucky to hit the toilet next morning. May help to place heat pad on lower abdomen as caster oil is only one that is drawn to hottest areas.

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say, thanks for the tip !

Whale oil beef hooked.

Vegetable based engine oil will turn your bike into an instant shit-heap. I've tried most solvents to try and dissolve the sticky varnish it leaves, even acetone and MEK will not touch it. A friend of mine recently vacu-blasted his manx crankcases to get rid of it - now he has the problem of restoring the green-grey chromate coating before the damp gets in and shags the magnesium alloy.

Nothing quite as good and safe impossible to remove w/o sanding as black cooked in coat on cast iron fry pans. A dash of bean oil used to add some fragrance to past Peel whose future is mainly to get crazy off road with me tossed off but now and then would like to try a dyno record run or Texas paved mile and drag strips then ride back home on it so found this mention that esd applief to a Norton.

Supposedly (and I only write that because I haven't tried it myself) Blendzall 469 Conversion Fluid is supposed to be the stuff to use to migrate to or from castor oil.
One of my Norton Manx-owning friends just used it transitioning from Castrol R to Castrol Edge and didn't have any problems on the last racing weekend we spent together.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=766041

http://crankmoto.com/blendzall-conversi ... 9-qt-snow/
Flushing fluid for 4 cycle lubrication systems when changing from mineral oil to castor oil or vice-versa
Compatible with either oil and leaves no residue
Conversion fluid prevents lumping or congealing of lubricants that do not mix

I don't think it is what's inside the motor that matters so much. If the motor is hot when it stops, what remains is minimal. What usually comes next is extremely hot mineral oil full of detergents. It's the vege oil which is exposed to the outside climate. It seems to polymerise like plastic and virtually nothing will remove it

I am bit rusty confused on your chemistry alan but if such serious event that caster is worth while seems could drain in pits and put in the flush oil to get the caster ridisuals out and diluted till next change normal oil for less ridculous use. I do not know what it will take but I want like 3xs more power than Combat and that means 3xs more heat to endure for a while. I will add a small dash in gas, enough to collect on guides but not enough to lower octane so hopefully just nice hints of model air plane. I put some in chainsaws which was ok for a short time but in close quarters constant exposure the smell is sickening.

hobot said:

I put some in chainsaws which was ok for a short time but in close quarters constant exposure the smell is sickening.

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Yeah, like racing when you are in the warm up/collecting area with racing 2 strokes :?

Re: Castor bean oil flush

acotrel said:

I don't think it is what's inside the motor that matters so much.

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If you have ever been inside a motor that has been run on CASTOR oil (note spelling) then all the internal parts are lightly coated in a sticky layer.
In little aero engines, this cleans off fairly readily with a wash in alcohol.
Just adding mineral oil could well produce gobs of sticky goo, which probably wouldn't be so good for the oiling system.

Note though that most castor type oils of recent origin are blended so that they are compatible with mineral oils,
so that this potential problem has all but been eliminated.
ONLY if they are run only on the recent varieties of castor based oils mixable with mineral type oils though....