Carrillo rod bolts size Norton 850

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gortnipper said:
Just go to Home Depot and pick up a set of Crafsman, if they are still any good. I got mine from Sears 30 years ago and most of them still look pretty new despite loads of use.
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One of them has probably never been used!

In my metric set it's the 18mm, and the 9mm and 15mm are rarely used.....I think it is only the imperial allen key set that has had an essential size missing! 7/32"
 
My lifetime accumulation of 12 pt. sockets rarely get used, except for 12 pt. fasteners.

6 point is the way.
 
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yes...
My Dad helped set up my first box with 12 pt. sockets, boxed ends, vice grips etc. at 15.
i strutted around like a proud Peacock....

I still have them, but they are relegated to the back of the box, being replaced by 6 pts.
Now with ARP and all the 12 pts, they are being used. Now I need to source some 12pt., 1/4 drive.
 
gortnipper wrote: "Just go to Home Depot and pick up a set of Crafsman, if they are still any good. I got mine from Sears 30 years ago and most of them still look pretty new despite loads of use."

Unfortunately Craftsman tools are not what they were. They were bought out by Stanley Black and Decker and much of their product is made in Asia:
"Consumers may find different versions of Craftsman products at the different outlets that sell them because after the sale of Craftsman to SBD, the entities are free to source Craftsman from the suppliers of their own choosing. For example, a Craftsman screwdriver sold at Sears is currently typically sourced from a vendor in China, an equivalent model at Lowes sourced from a supplier in Taiwan, and one sold at Ace may still be the original Western Forge USA made product that was sold by Sears for many years prior to the sale of Craftsman to SBD."
 
gortnipper said:
Just go to Home Depot and pick up a set of Crafsman, if they are still any good. I got mine from Sears 30 years ago and most of them still look pretty new despite loads of use.
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Yes , tomorrow Home Depot.
I had no idea 12 point were superior to the 6 point set , which I've been using for 40 years. These rod bolts demand 12 Pt.
 
Torontonian said:
Yes , tomorrow Home Depot.
I had no idea 12 point were superior to the 6 point set , which I've been using for 40 years. These rod bolts demand 12 Pt.
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Depending on use. Obviously 12pt on 12pt is the best. 12pt on a regular head give you more choices when placing the socket in tight quarters or on a buggered head, but can round off a bolt head easier. 6pt on a regular is the strongest connection. That's why you (at least me) have never seen a 12pt impact socket. IMO you need to have both types if you do a lot of auto work. Same thing with socket wrenches, some have fine gears inside to allow for small movements in tight areas, but they are not as strong as the ones with less teeth on the drive gear.
Pete
 
Deets55 said:
Depending on use. Obviously 12pt on 12pt is the best. 12pt on a regular head give you more choices when placing the socket in tight quarters or on a buggered head, but can round off a bolt head easier. 6pt on a regular is the strongest connection. That's why you (at least me) have never seen a 12pt impact socket. IMO you need to have both types if you do a lot of auto work. Same thing with socket wrenches, some have fine gears inside to allow for small movements in tight areas, but they are not as strong as the ones with less teeth on the drive gear.
Pete
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Today drove the bike in 8 C. to Stockyards Crappy tire. No SAE 12 pt. sets. Walked over the street into Home Depot to find a bar set of AF 12 pt. 1/2 " drive ( Craftsman ) , starting at my needed size of 3/8 and going up to 1" Max. Rail bar made of crap plastic , $48. Saw a set or two of impact socket sets beside it. Picked up beer on the way back home as temps plummeted. Bike ran great.
 
I'm still using Craftsman socket sets I bought back around 1970 when thieves striped my garage of tools, and I replaced everything with new using the insurance money. Still going strong 50 years on, although I did split the 9/16" one using too long a pipe on the breaker bar. That was back when Sears would replace them for free. I've rarely regretted buying any tool, and by now I've accumulated quite a variety of them. I guess my point is, if in doubt about buying tools, go for it. You'll thank yourself later.

Ken
 
lcrken said:
I'm still using Craftsman socket sets I bought back around 1970 when thieves striped my garage of tools, and I replaced everything with new using the insurance money. Still going strong 50 years on, although I did split the 9/16" one using too long a pipe on the breaker bar. That was back when Sears would replace them for free. I've rarely regretted buying any tool, and by now I've accumulated quite a variety of them. I guess my point is, if in doubt about buying tools, go for it. You'll thank yourself later.

Ken
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Lifetime Warranty on the set.
My life ? , or ... transfers to the next person who grabs it after moi ? Life's full of questions .
 
lcrken said:
I'm still using Craftsman socket sets I bought back around 1970 when thieves striped my garage of tools, and I replaced everything with new using the insurance money. Still going strong 50 years on, although I did split the 9/16" one using too long a pipe on the breaker bar. That was back when Sears would replace them for free. I've rarely regretted buying any tool, and by now I've accumulated quite a variety of them. I guess my point is, if in doubt about buying tools, go for it. You'll thank yourself later.

Ken
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When I was starting out after buying my first fixer upper house, I would make a point of buying a tool every time I went to the HW store, even if it was just a small screwdriver, nail set, etc. No regrets except not buying more!

All my Cradtsman stuff is 80s/90s USA forged.
 
Here where I am currently in Japan I frequent some of the resale shops that are in my area and I get lucky sometimes with quality second hand tools for a song.
 
This is first hand information about the Craftsman/Stanley deal, as I tried to exchange a broken 1/2” breaker bar. This was right after Sears stores closed and Lowes took over the sales.
1) They would exchange the bar if I had original receipt (very unlikely in my case)
2) All new Craftsman tools would be replaced when broken as long as there was a receipt (again, highly unlikely)
3) I eventually got hold of someone from Sears Corporate who sent me a new bar. Probably more effort than it was worth and it was made over seas.

Now the important stuff. Stanley was going to take over the manufacturing of Craftsman labeled tools. Stanley tools are still made in the USA, thereby Craftsman would be made here again. This is according to a news article I found when all this stuff was happening. I have not looked at any Craftsman hand tools recently, so I can’t say for sure. Like a lot of other guys all my Craftsman stuff is very old and made here. Interesting note, some of the wrenches are stamped with the size and “AF“
I have some Stanley stuff, and I believe Ace Hardware (Master Mechanic Series) are Stanley tools. I am very impressed with them.
OK bored you guys enough
 
Deets55 said:
This is first hand information about the Craftsman/Stanley deal, as I tried to exchange a broken 1/2” breaker bar. This was right after Sears stores closed and Lowes took over the sales.
1) They would exchange the bar if I had original receipt (very unlikely in my case)
2) All new Craftsman tools would be replaced when broken as long as there was a receipt (again, highly unlikely)
3) I eventually got hold of someone from Sears Corporate who sent me a new bar. Probably more effort than it was worth and it was made over seas.

Now the important stuff. Stanley was going to take over the manufacturing of Craftsman labeled tools. Stanley tools are still made in the USA, thereby Craftsman would be made here again. This is according to a news article I found when all this stuff was happening. I have not looked at any Craftsman hand tools recently, so I can’t say for sure. Like a lot of other guys all my Craftsman stuff is very old and made here. Interesting note, some of the wrenches are stamped with the size and “AF“
I have some Stanley stuff, and I believe Ace Hardware (Master Mechanic Series) are Stanley tools. I am very impressed with them.
OK bored you guys enough
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Not bored.
The " Special Pivoted " 1/2 " drive torque wrench I will be using ( in conjunction with the new 3/8 1/2 " longer socket ) to remove , lube up with the special supplied lube and then torque the 4 bolts up to 40 ft. lbs. says "Made in U.S.A." .
Bought it 45 years ago , looks like new.
 
Torontonian said:
Not bored.
The " Special Pivoted " 1/2 " drive torque wrench I will be using ( in conjunction with the new 3/8 1/2 " longer socket ) to remove , lube up with the special supplied lube and then torque the 4 bolts up to 40 ft. lbs. says "Made in U.S.A." .
Bought it 45 years ago , looks like new.
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Sorry, did I get lost, we have been talking Carrilo bolts which in a Norton application and are torqued MAX 35lb/ft, do not tighten to 40lb/ft....jseng1 (JSM) has reported on this thread on Saturday, that tightening to 40lb/ft will damage Carillo bolts

And you should be measuring stretch....others are clear to follow stretch measuring instructions....my own comment is that in my experience 35lb/feet with my torque wrench tends to coincide exactly with the recommended stretch.
 
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SteveA said:
Sorry, did I get lost, we have been talking Carrilo bolts which in a Norton application and are torqued MAX 35lb/ft, do not tighten to 40lb/ft....jseng1 (JSM) has reported on this thread on Saturday, that tightening to 40lb/ft will damage Carillo bolts

And you should be measuring stretch....others are clear to follow stretch measuring instructions....my own comment is that in my experience 35lb/feet with my torque wrench tends to coincide exactly with the recommended stretch.
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Thanks , it will then be just under 35 ft. lbs. then.
My Carrillo steel bolt instruction sheet states for the 5/16 -24 bolts to not exceed 40 ft. lbs.
I haven't even tried to remove the bolts yet.
The next step would be fitting assembly oiled shells and tightening up to the crank journals just under the torque values... . Under 40.
 
Torontonian said:
Thanks , it will then be just under 35 ft. lbs. then.
My Carrillo steel bolt instruction sheet states for the 5/16 -24 bolts to not exceed 40 ft. lbs.
I haven't even tried to remove the bolts yet.
The next step would be fitting assembly oiled shells and tightening up to the crank journals just under the torque values... . Under 40.
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Bolts are out , lubed and in again at 35 ft. lbs. using supplied bolt lube and assembly lube on the shells. All good. Now onto the pistons rebore.
 
Just a thought, lubing the bolt means at a lower torque you get greater stretch.
 
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