Carburettor/manifod Removal

Any tips on how to remove the carbs and manifolds? Is there a special tool or something? Thee two inner nuts seem impossible to get at on the carbs; same with the allen screws(?) on the manifolds. Any advice would be nice.

Thanks

Remove the manifolds attached to the carbs. Not really possible to get to the nuts without very special tools.
Dereck

I can't access the allen screws that attach the manifolds to the engine, and I can't access the nuts that attach the carbs to the manifolds. Do you know what tool I need. I've looked at Whitworth tool sets, and there doesn't eem to be anything that would help. It's a '69 Commando by the way.

The short return on an "L" shaped allen wrench is too long to work it's way onto the manifold allen bolts in that tight space behind the carbs, so most people cut (or grind) the allen wrench down so the return is short, giving it clearance to engage the allen bolt. Then it's just a tedious process of engaging each bolt, turning it as far as the manifold will allow, then re-engaging the bolt, turn again,... repeat. Needless to say you don't get a much rotation on each re-engagement, but once a bolt is moving freely, I usually reach fingers in from above and below and spin the bolts out.

Thanks, I guess I should have thought of grinding down the wrench.

From an earlier (July 2016) post:
"I became so frustrated working those inner allen-head bolts that I drilled 2 holes in the frame plate (gusset? web? it's right behind the carbs) just outside the big grommet area, bought a Bondhus 03111 t-handle wrench (looks like the tool number is now 13111) and now have a straight shot to those 2 devilishly-placed fasteners. Cut about 5/8" off one of the "T" handles to get some rotation clearing the frame top tube, and feel much better every time I go there. "
At least one other person liked the idea. I just took another look at those holes. They are about 9/32 dia, the edges of the holes are just outside the grommet itself, and they are in about the 4:00 and 8:00 o'clock positions as viewed from the back. You'd have to remove the tank to drill them, and I'm so glad I did.

I concur with o0norton0o.
This is what I use:



It's cheap, simple, and just works.

Since I don't go there often, i just remove the tank. Makes access to the Allen bolts much easier. I do like the hex wrench access hole idea though...likely do that next time.

Ball-end allen wrench.

Still fiddly, but it works.

Bondhus also makes a stubby double ball ended Allen key set. The ball end falls into the bolt head a lot easier than the normal end