Cannot remove the Crankcase Strainer Drain PLug

Hello there. This is my first post on accessnorton.com. How the heck do I remove the crankcase gauze strainer/drain plug? Does this piece have reverse threads? I'm using my 15" breaker bar with a 1.5" socket and I can't seem to break it loose. I'm attempting to loosen it (anti-clockwise) and I don't seem to have the strength to do it, even while having a friend support the bike as I sit on the floor and pull on my breaker bar like heck. I would appreciate any ideas or suggestions.

For what's worth, this is my first Norton. It is a 1971 commando and I just purchased it a few weeks ago. Attempting to change the oil I have emptied the oil tank out of its drain hole and I am now trying to remove the oil dregs in the engine case. My 1971 does not have the engine case oil drain hole. It only has the gauze strainer. My service manual says I should remove the little bit of oil in the engine case.


Thanks for your help,

Sully

It is a 1.5 inch hex. It is a normal anti-clock to loosen bolt. The accessibility is poor with a socket and a special wrench is availabe. Since the plug is steel and the case is aluminum, I suggest a blowdryer or similar to heat. It will loosen the fit and maybe any sealant someone used. Enjoy your new Norton.

Hi, Welcome. Do you have a six point socket? Have you ground it flush so as to remove the lead-in and get a better grip on the thin hex? Do you have a pipe to slip over the breaker bar? Do you have a son/nephew/neighbor kid with big guns to help you? :lol:

Well yes to above ,but has probably NEVER been off if that tight. Counterclockwise. Heat casing around there, not the big nut plug-nut itself . If strength not enough try striking bar with small sledge ? Don't slip. Or strike off-center. Safety first.

A big friggen box end wrench would be good even if you have to rent one. It shouldn't be that hard, so I suspect it will get easier after this first adventure. The heat idea is good but my experience is that a hair dryer isn't enough. One of my favorite tools is a 1500 watt heat gun. You could also use a torch as well. I would be tempted to lay the bike on its side for better access and leverage.

Good luck!

Russ

Probably PO put sealer on threads rather than a new copper crush washer....maybe the dodo used red lock-tite?
I'm with whoever suggested heat on the cases, not the plug. Good luck getting it off....it won't be so hard next time. Dowty washers or Stat-O-Seals will be good replacements for the crush washers.

I'm also with he who suggested a box wrench....this puts the torque right where you need it without a 3/4 inch moment tending to twist the socket off axis. I have also placed a patch of aluminum foil over a hex head, then tapped the box wrench onto the hex head in order to gain the maximum purchase on the hex points.

Slick

Marc Sullivan said:

I'm attempting to loosen it (anti-clockwise)

Sully

Click to expand...

Just to be sure...anti-clockwise if the nut or bolt is facing up, this one is facing down so turn clockwise as viewed from above.

Bill G

Why bother to even remove the drain plug?That oil in there will pump out the return line as soon as you start up.Run the return hose into a bucket for 30 seconds.You can also pump out all the dirty oil that was still in the crankshaft (which you won't get by just removing the plug).

X-file said:

Why bother to even remove the drain plug?That oil in there will pump out the return line as soon as you start up.Run the return hose into a bucket for 30 seconds.You can also pump out all the dirty oil that was still in the crankshaft (which you won't get by just removing the plug).

Click to expand...

I agree with that, I've had my 850 since 1975 so have done many oil changes but I can't remember ever removing that filter plug or draining the sump!

Dave.

The 1-1/2 box wrenches are cheap at Walmart, they use them for trailer hitch ball nuts

I agree that just leaving it alone would probably be fine. However, I have to admit that I couldn't personally do that; I would have to remove it!

Heat is your best friend - as noted earlier. I'd use a propane torch but a heat gun would be ok, just take longer. The idea to lay the bike on its side is a good one as well and I'd do that if it became apparent that it just won't budge in the normal position.

On my original '71 I had that same "oil drain" and never had any issues with it coming loose when simply tightened down normally with the standard crush washer. There is no need for any sort of locking sealer. If you are really concerned about the bolt loosening, safety wire is, IMO, the way to go.

The bike is new to him so looking in the sump for the first time is wise. It is Christmas afterall. You don't want to find any presents hiding in there.

Not sure what kind of tools you can get your hands on but a 1.5" 6 point socket and a impact gun will do the trick. Then Never Seize it.

Got it out! About 400 cm^3 of additional oil dumped out of the motor. 60 watts of pure incandescence may have helped. :lol:

The interesting thing I found is that some type of sealant appears between the head of the bolt and the crush washer. Is that something to reapply? Or just dig it out? I will be using a new crush washer...if I can find one soon.

I'd like to replace this sump drain plug filter device. Oldbritts.com sells them for $62. By chance, does anyone know of a slightly less expensive way to purchase a new plug/filter device?

I appreciate every response and I'm happy to know that this seems to be a very handy/friendly forum. I'm sure I'll keep asking more silly questions in the future. Thanks again!

Marc Sullivan said:

Got it out! About 400 cm^3 of additional oil dumped out of the motor. 60 watts of pure incandescence may have helped. :lol:

The interesting thing I found is that some type of sealant appears between the head of the bolt and the crush washer. Is that something to reapply? Or just dig it out? I will be using a new crush washer...if I can find one soon.

I'd like to replace this sump drain plug filter device. Oldbritts.com sells them for $62. By chance, does anyone know of a slightly less expensive way to purchase a new plug/filter device?

I appreciate every response and I'm happy to know that this seems to be a very handy/friendly forum. I'm sure I'll keep asking more silly questions in the future. Thanks again!

Click to expand...

No, but there is a MORE expensive option. :wink: Before making a purchase, decide what crankcase vent you'll use (unfair question now) and maybe comnoz's super breather is right for you. which-the-best-comnoz-breather-t14210.html

Marc, That drain bolt can be a pain.. I gave up and bought the box wrench tool that is available for it. It's not too costly. It has a flat handle. I put a slight bend in the handle, close to the box end. Just enough to give you some clearance. I was then able to hold the box end on the bolt tightly with one hand, and tap the end of the handle with a hammer without hitting anything else.[hopefully]. But be careful. The impact is what loosens it. If that doesn't work, I would use an impact gun with a flattened socket as suggested...You should be able to just clean out the strainer, and reuse it. I also like using a bit of never seize. Great stuff! Good Luck Dennis