Cam Chain video

My cam chain was loose enough to rub on the adjuster bolt, but pretty tight in spots. I've adjusted it not hit the nut anymore. The video is before and after, I'm using the kick lever to move things, maybe not too smoothly. Does it look about right at the end?

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekOS-zPoPo8[/video]

Good song..."How Many More Times", Led Zeppelin.

I'd replace the chain if you've got too many tight/loose spots.

I found you can get a better idea about the tight-loose spots by moving the chain in the forward direction then give it a nudge in reverse. It give a better idea of whats going on in that particular spot. Chains are under $20.

Revealing video, thanx. I set mine same as your 2nd go shows ~3/16-1/4" at slackest. I think this chain slack tightens up more once at temp. Chain wear is determined by lifting links of chain wrap out of valleys. In cam case about any would indicate time to renew. Drive chains I let go till 1/3 valley depth lift-ability.

Revealing , I guess so! I didn't know my whole photobucket account was able to be seen. I uploaded to youtube, way better.

Hi

I would replace it for the price of a new chain and you have the cover off, I run a automatic chain adjuster on my Norton, have so for about 50,000 miles, but still keep a eye on chain wear, but not pulling the timing case off as much, they say you should check/ajust the chain every 10,000 miles, I look at mine about 20,000 miles, but you will hear it if loose...

Ashley

That slackness might only be the cam forced anti-clockwise by the push of the vave spring. If you do fit a new chain they now come lubed with something very thick and this makes the chain adjustment a lottery. When this stuff gets washed out the chain runs slack. I wash mine in petrol then soak in engine oil before fitting.

Cash

Not really an accurate assessment of the timing chain slack unless you support the intermidiate gear shaft with a cut away outer timing cover.

Yeah, I've read that. Hope this is close enough for awhile. I'll keep an eye out for a junk timing cover.

You're already into it for the cost of an oil pump seal, crank and cam seals, and a new gasket. Together they cost more than a new chain. I've never been able to see the need for a cutaway cover, unless the spindle is loose in the case. Which would be a concern in itself.

I had ordered a new oil pump seal, but I guess the other two are old enough to get replaced. What steps to replace the chain? Can the oil pump and drive stay in place?

openroad said:

I had ordered a new oil pump seal, but I guess the other two are old enough to get replaced. What steps to replace the chain? Can the oil pump and drive stay in place?

Click to expand...

The oilpump and threaded worm gear have to come off to get the idler sprocket off. The cam nut is right hand, the wormgear is lefthand.. The oilpump has a gasket behind it which needs replacing. If you don't have a shop manual there is one online.
http://rocbo.lautre.net/technique/norton_workshop/
The most important thing in it is not to clobber the nut on the cam. Steady pressure, to protect the spindle. Use locktite on the oilpump nuts.

P.S. You''l need the Oil Seal Guide that goes on the end of the cam to put the cover back on.
http://www.oldbritts.com/19_061359.html
The sharp edge on the end of the cam will tear up the seal when you fit the cover. I've found you can get around not having the guide by making a cone with aluminum foil over the end of the cam.

Thanks, great Link. Seems I always find I need another gasket or seal just after I've already ordered from Old Brits. I did get another seal guide. I remember one came with my tool kit, but I couldn't find it. What the heck, it's only been 37 years, and four states since then.

Get a new chain to start from scratch again, but don't sweat the tension, yours is as good as it gets, unless the packing grease still there, whic it ain't. Only need the cut cover support to torque on cam nut, but its standard practice to just be careful smooth to get cam nut to stay put. I only used cover this last time on Trixie. My helper never has and his re-builds last a long time sounding very clam too. Oil pump gasket and oil pump nipple must be places as a set because there are two thickness combo's to match for sealing crush. Either sets works on 750 or 850, but must match. This is the ONLY place Nortons need a gasket, TS cover and oil pump and only for the gap set not sealing, as about any goop does that. Venders have the combos so be sure to ask and get some extras and protect well.
Clutch circlips too.

Norton are not the thing for people with too many irons in the fire to do it by the book and as often as ideal.