"C"spec SuperBlend Main Bearings

I have two new SuperBlends ready for fitment into the cases and onto the crank of my '72. My practice has been to chill the crank and the outer races while heating the cases and inner races. In the past I have been judicious about keeping the components of the bearings separate and in the same orientation, but this is hard to manage when so many operations are going on at the same time with tempatures changing rapidly while I'm trying to avoid using my drifts (plastic sleeves--with bearing OD/ID dimensions) and a hammer, in my kitchen.

So do I need to be so festidious or are the bearing components (outer race, rollers, inner races) produced separately and merely assembled for shipment or are they a "team" from the get-go in manufacturing???

Your thoughts???

RS

If you heat-soak the cases well, and chill the bearings well, you can take a reasonable amount of time to do the complete assembly, one case half at a time.

Main thing is to get the inner races onto the crank first, then do the outer races in the cases; I've found that to be the easiest so the cases have more time to heat up well.

Actually, the factory recommended way was to heat the cases, fit the complete bearing, and the heat transfer from the cases would heat up the bearing and let you drop the crank into the main bearing....the weight of the crank would do the rest...that way has always worked for me!

I would try to keep the inners and outer together. They are a matched set.
Press the heated inners to the cold crank using anti seize to prevent galling
Next, cool the outers and heat the case around the journals. They will drop right in.
AT this time you may want to put 20 thou shim in the timing side because it is likely you will need it.
Once the endplay is established, 5 to 10 thou, heat the case again to drop out the outers and reassemble with loctite 620. Make darn sure they are all the way home(seated). If either of these rjournals are worn, you may want to set the outers with JB weld.

I heated the cases and froze the bearings and put them in. Seemed to go in all the way but when test fitting the cases with the crank, it was tight. Took it apart and had to tap the timing side on in about 10 thou. to seat. I remember it really sounded like it hit bottom when I put it in too. I would give the bearings a tap on a heavy surface to make sure they are seated in the cases before assembly. I have some spare large shims from OB (1 complete set and one less the 8 thou I think) if you need some for an easy price. I'll never use them.

Dave
69S

Typically bearing inner and outer races and cones sold separately by separate part number are not sets, you get which ever ones are on top when the salesman puts them on the counter. After the bearings have been run together they become a set and should not be mixed. Same goes for other used parts such as lifters and cam lobes, rocker shafts and rocker arms. These parts all establish a particular wear pattern with each mated component based on specific loads and forces they are subjected to. Mixing these parts randomly during subsequent tear downs will require new wear patterns to be worn which will shorten their life and require more frequent adjustments. It's not the end of the world to mix these parts but it is good practice not to.

Hi Dog T , sent you a PM about your shims.....Pierre.

DogT said:

I heated the cases and froze the bearings and put them in. Seemed to go in all the way but when test fitting the cases with the crank, it was tight. Took it apart and had to tap the timing side on in about 10 thou. to seat. I remember it really sounded like it hit bottom when I put it in too. I would give the bearings a tap on a heavy surface to make sure they are seated in the cases before assembly. I have some spare large shims from OB (1 complete set and one less the 8 thou I think) if you need some for an easy price. I'll never use them.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

First: Thanks to all that responded, I appreciate your support!

I have the OB shims that go under the outer races. I also have the shims that go under the inner races, whic, I gather, is the preferred place. When I reassembled the lower end of my MK III I used some heavy PVC pipe set the inner and outer races after taking advantage of the hot & cold.

The thrust of my original question was about keeping the SuperBlend components together as packaged, RennieK pretty much confirmed what I had been thinking, but I found two small boxes, one is now labled DS and the other TS, the roller sections are now marked with a dot that will be assembled toward the inner race; something less to be concerned about when this engines comes (back) to life. If I need to take up any "slack" I'll be putting my shims under the inner races. I plan to post a picture of my components (crank, rods, pistons) later today.

RS

Pierre, PM sent, you have first dibs.

RS, yes, I just wanted to warn you about the bearing seating. I don't know if inner or outer shims are preferable, the inner is certainly factory done, but much easier to take the outer from the case than the inner from the crank.

Dave
69S

The Eye Candy



RS

Re: The Eye Candy

RoadScholar said:

RS

Click to expand...

Ok, first off, how dare you make so many people gealouse at one time.

Second, how much did that setup set you back. That is going to be very nice. What is the end result of all that magnificance? CC's, HP etc...

The goal here is the ability to spend more time in the upper end of the tach without the attendant worry. The cylinder head has been ported, with attention to the exhaust ports to make it easier to lose spent gasses while retaining less heat:



I waited almost 6 months for the Falicon crank from MAP and then another 3 weeks to get it balanced to the recommended 65% by Lindskogg. I have checked the big ends of the Carillo rods and have .00095 on the drive side and .00098 on the timing side, the JE pistons at set-up with .0052 for bore clearance by Leo Goff. I'm expecting an extended break-in with light non-detergent oil. The rods, pistons and Total -Seal rings are from JS Engineering

Cost??? A lot!! At my age I won't be getting too many more second chances; money I have, time is much more precious. Keep in mind that I own Rocky Point Cycle and get a discount here and there so the exact cost to me, with tax considerations, is much less that the average hobbyist could expect to pay. By doing my own project management and work (measurments and assembly) my costs are below what you'd expect to pay for a professional send-it-out rebuild.

RS

Way to got Russ we all want such nice stuff in our rides too. I'd guessimate with your discounts almost $3000 for such a slick kit. Hi rpm is hard on jump roping Norton 360 cranks and its bearings, might consider cryogenic tempering of the crank and bearings and cam and lifters. This was the key factors that let the rotary engines crank to exist long enough to go into production. We only got so much time left to enjoy what little money we got to burn before we go.

The shims are best placed behind the case bores as slightly moves support closer to the weak crank cheeks radius and races. Measure the rod bolt stretch for ~.0065" rather than cruder torque method.

I heat the cases then drop in and seat the cold outer races then heat the inner races and drift onto the 'frozen' crank, then they just slip in/out the bearings at room temp.

To better enjoy the 6500-7500 tpm glee, get the taller 850 2nd gear set and a 21 tooth sprocket. Was good on Peel for 50 to almost 100 mph passing gear.

Happy News Year

Wow! Very nice looking engine parts. Can you post another photo or 2 of the crank from the other side and angle?

I think we need a crankshaft calendar.

Better yet, can you post some shots in the new Crank porn thread here:

commando-crankshaft-porn-t8365.html