Broken/ snapped/failed?

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Just intersted in ALL the failings of Commandos, anyone who as had a failure,fracture,broken part..I am, plus many others would like to hear, But more important how long did the repair last, Modified part etc...it's just a mate said when he first saw my commando " Dont these fall to bit's" ? to be honest i stumbled for works...starting the answer "Well.......... then i didnt know where to start :oops: :!: I bet there is over twenty common original failings,,starting with Combat Rods comming off :!:
 
Mk3, apart from crap casting and D rod (but that was in the rebuild) only the left exhaust header blowing out of the left head and the kill switch shorting out and cutting the ignition half way past a B double which I was overtaking in the wet, I must say that it has been totally reliable and a GENTLEMENS carriage when touring. Except for the crap suspension, which will be sorted when I can afford to do so. Graeme
 
Layshaft Bearing is one that comes to mind. Easy fix with upgraded replacement
 
As I'm working through it right now, lets not forget those disk brake calipers rusting up.
 
Bottom bolt brazing of oil tank cracks sooner or later. Gearbox blows up real good if layshaft bearing not upgraded.Exciting stuff.
 
I have had difficulties with original items listed here on the Macdum Madam MKIII:
Ign Sw internally poor contacts...bike dies unexpectedly. Showstopper.
Sprag disintegrated for PO. Corrected prior to my purchase. Showstopper.
Kickback at cold start due to early Boyer EI and E-Start combination. Major nuisance.
Throttle cable at twistgrip became dirty, corroded and real stiff due to contamination from leaking M/C secondary seal. Nuisance.
Leaking M/C secondary seal. Nuisance.
Front caliper pistons suffered corrosion damage on exposed portion of diameter. Nuisance.
Directional indicators work off and on because of Lucas' poor choice of metalized plastic for earth connection. Nuisance.
Broke rubber silencer mounting. Nuisance.
Iso's may be a bit saggy. Nuisance.
K81 sidewalls showing age checking. Potential showstopper.
Oily sticky clutch dragging with the usual hard-to-find-neutral symptoms. Nuisance.
Layshaft bearing awaits attention (it's up on the lift as we speak). Potentially catastrophic showstopper - ender.
That's it so far. I wouldn't say it's falling to bits any worse than I am. Getting old ain't for sissy's.
 
All three Commandos I've owned (72, 74, 75) had the top oil tank mounting break, and only the 75 had the bottom crack. Most of the original seats I've had crack around the mounts. Of course, you could run them for years and either never notice, or never care. Usually weld them up if I'm putting on a new seat cover, and the seat base is no longer solid - you can kind of feel it moving around. On the 72 and 74 the chainguard mounts (u shaped thing) on the rear mount separted from the chainguard, and on the 72, the chainguard mount broke off of the swingarm. All in all, a lot better than some other notoriously shaky bikes I've owned.
 
BY FAR the most dangerous lurking famous failure is dumbass axle fracture. Both my Combat broke them, Peel at 90 mph standing on pegs, and yesterday doing parking lot circles on Trixie. My ride buddy Wesley said his Combat broke it axle and also his '71 about 20 yr ago. I hear of this fracture at least twice a year and only about 10% of C'do owners are online regularly if at all, so exprapulating out that implied like a dozen axle breaks a year that we don't hear about expect interviewing at rallies.

Head gaskets blow out mostly at oil drain hole but also to push rod tunnels undiscovered until oil blowing out seams or opening up for the surprise.

Headers fracture near engine then dangle and clang at they blast loud shocker. Wire is about only thing to hold em up to limp back on own power.

Kicer ratchet is common to go away while away from home.

3rd gear cog teeth seem the weakest to break getting on it in lower rpms.

1st gear paper thin bush wears to fractures apart pretty soon, which can jump out of 1st when just barely coasting down w/o power load to hold it in gear, so lost of tire drag can suddenly slip you right down a barely jogging speed on slight little bump in the path, SPLAT. Had that twice now so keep those bushes on hand but not the longer lasting rest of tranny parts.

Rusting leaking bar master cylinder blowing off at speed to go completely away one hard pull down to nothing the very next squeeze of terror.

Worn chain riding up out of sprocket valleys to wipe teeth off to just useless nubbins while out and also causing chain to come off teeth but not off the bike so it just dangles while trying to go up hill but slows down to a stop.

Tail light bulb inside ground strap hanging by an intermittent hair to both cause Boyer missfires or completely dead spark but no fault found until bike bouncing a bit.

Bores wear out in AMC gear box and they also develop crack between the bearing bores, which pretty much trashes the cases for piles of them at various vendors around the world. Atlas shells are the cheap replacement and fit better btw.

Coil brackets tend to break off now and then too.

750 headsteady plate easy to bend and fracture. Can be braced by welding two verttical tabs to support the bend in plate or put in boxed 850 type.

Lower cradle bolt holes are pretty common let go on 850's, double thick plate welded over that is standard fix.

Rear drum clirclip area can pop off.

Nut on RH end of main shaft can back off and prevent clutch adjustment to work.
 
hobot said:
BY FAR the most dangerous lurking famous failure is dumbass axle fracture. Both my Combat broke them, Peel at 90 mph standing on pegs, and yesterday doing parking lot circles on Trixie. My ride buddy Wesley said his Combat broke it axle and also his '71 about 20 yr ago. I hear of this fracture at least twice a year and only about 10% of C'do owners are online regularly if at all, so exprapulating out that implied like a dozen axle breaks a year that we don't hear about expect interviewing at rallies.

Head gaskets blow out mostly at oil drain hole but also to push rod tunnels undiscovered until oil blowing out seams or opening up for the surprise.

Headers fracture near engine then dangle and clang at they blast loud shocker. Wire is about only thing to hold em up to limp back on own power.

Kicer ratchet is common to go away while away from home.

3rd gear cog teeth seem the weakest to break getting on it in lower rpms.

1st gear paper thin bush wears to fractures apart pretty soon, which can jump out of 1st when just barely coasting down w/o power load to hold it in gear, so lost of tire drag can suddenly slip you right down a barely jogging speed on slight little bump in the path, SPLAT. Had that twice now so keep those bushes on hand but not the longer lasting rest of tranny parts.

Rusting leaking bar master cylinder blowing off at speed to go completely away one hard pull down to nothing the very next squeeze of terror.

Worn chain riding up out of sprocket valleys to wipe teeth off to just useless nubbins while out and also causing chain to come off teeth but not off the bike so it just dangles while trying to go up hill but slows down to a stop.

Tail light bulb inside ground strap hanging by an intermittent hair to both cause Boyer missfires or completely dead spark but no fault found until bike bouncing a bit.

Bores wear out in AMC gear box and they also develop crack between the bearing bores, which pretty much trashes the cases for piles of them at various vendors around the world. Atlas shells are the cheap replacement and fit better btw.

Coil brackets tend to break off now and then too.

750 headsteady plate easy to bend and fracture. Can be braced by welding two verttical tabs to support the bend in plate or put in boxed 850 type.

Lower cradle bolt holes are pretty common let go on 850's, double thick plate welded over that is standard fix.

Rear drum clirclip area can pop off.

Nut on RH end of main shaft can back off and prevent clutch adjustment to work.

I knew Stevo would have broken most "weak" items :lol:
 
Ugh, I only listed the ones not mentioned prior by others on this post.
I did not list things only Ms Peel could break and will never happen to any others again. I don't mean ordinary routine crank shaft bending.

Engine case halves twisted by engine/tire loads to bend-bind on locating dowels, so it took many chisel wedges driven in totally empty cases to try to part and figure out why no one could help advise me what I was doing wrong on a 1st time into it. Took traumatic efforts to establish each dowel needed .003-4" sanded off one face to seat and again normally. I will not force myself to re-live the put downs and destruction of my sense of competence to get pre-Peel apart the first time with bent crank and crack ole Zint found to delay Peel $ome more.

Removal of most the resin and pole faces of alternator and rotor. I know what the shape a severe over rev'd crankshaft gets into before its sprung back to measure that by a ruler, no dial gauge needed. Still ran pretty good to 5000 afterward and 2000 miles later had self corrected to 1/16" DS 1/32" TS. I assume the cryogenic tempering might had something to do with that self correcting surprise. Learned how I might bend crank before install to get more rpm out of it before its peripheral's get taken out.

Jerking off two oil pump cast iron snouts, as well as the attending cam tensioner and cam lobe as too many others have too.


On plain Jane Trixie Combat fault that could happen to anyone but not seen listed. Rear shock lower rubber cushion coming off so so did the shock support for funny hinged handling at ordinary road loads. Fitting obsolete comma shaped oil hole pistons to rub through an Al smashed down into bores gasket till one came apart 3 wk after just newly riding her around as commuter. Ran so good I didn't think to open engine and paid the price of lazy new ownership risk, ugh.

Next year or so Peel should be going and looking forward to try your fork kit back to back with mine. I am pleased no end to read your racer tester eating up the rest after you got him the rebound side installed too. If I have more fun on yours on and off road you bet I'll let world know of my further joys. If silent suspect something went permanently wrong living it up.
 
FastFred said:
3 cams on my old Commando. It was such good fun changing them..

That's the good reason for installing a quick change cam bearing kit!
 
Parts that have actually broken on me:

Layshaft bearing came apart on my 73 850. Cage broke apart, gearbox locked up riding down the highway. That was exciting.

Kickstart shaft was cracked on my current 850 when I did the gearbox rebuild. New shaft from Andover went in.

Oil tank mounts used to shear off regularly. Didn't know what to do about it back then. These days I have CNW-modified tanks on both bikes, no problems.

Airbox rubber boots used to rot out quickly in the SoCal smog. I eventually ditched the airbox and went with foam socks. On my current Commandos I'm running the clamp-on K&N.

Rear brake light switches didn't last all that long and still don't. Cheap plastic POC.

Drive paddles on the rear brake drum came loose on the 73 850 after about 60,000 miles. I fitted a new drum.

The Lucas bullet connector sleeves tend to fracture after some years of use and need to be replaced. Easy and cheap to renew.

That's about all I can think of right now. For me, the bigger problem is parts falling off!

Debby
 
Cams have been my biggest problem. Original and particularly just post-closure pattern followers (Wasssell or Harris) can and do lose their stellite feet. Recent (last 20 years) followers have spigotted stellite and I've never heard of one coming loose.
 
In practice I lost more signals, mirrors, bar grips and peg bolts+rubbers and silencer chrome than anything else. I've had chain come apart and wierdly past me like a mechanical snake. Carb bolt fall out so gasket hanging, but ran ok if throttle kept well opened. Oil filter backed to 2/3 empty tank before I noticed squirely rear zig zaging to work up to entering the real tights, thank goodness. Ran same oil temp back 25 miles to get more oil, w/o much concern on it zinc content just then. Crank end nut and clutch adjuster nut have come off to break stuff and punch hole in outter cover. That was on first week on 1st C'do, pulled up to drop mail in the box and eased to curb to hear clink/clank/clang sound and see a 4 ft long line of oil zip out on ground ahead of me. Have knocked the whole bearing/race right through an AMC gearbox shell in attempt to get it to seat in too loose a bore. Had to torch off a swing arm with rust fussed deep lipped total trapped spindle I took to dozer shop to see 26,000 PSI on hydraulic press gauge before it even began to move. Had knocked the glass out of the clocks fussing with the fork cap bolts. Throttle and clutch cables while out and about of course, just like tires and chain and TS gaskets and oil pump nipple and clutch locator circlip and speedo drive that are consumables.
 
Steve, I am not suprised you have broken every part that can be broken :!:
But the list is building up quite well, are snapped frames a thing of the past?
 
hobot, if only you were the factory test rider back in the day,,,,,,,,,,, how good would Nortons have been.
 
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