Broken down in Nova Scotia

Now to rebuild :). In all the excitement I forget which side of the sprocket faces out. And mark is away. Anyone know the answer to that?
 
kommando said:
No, its the last action in the tension sequence is to pull the gearbox forward enough so its against the front of the top and bottom bolt in the gearbox mounting holes so the stronger pull of the rear chain is pulling the box back against an immovable object. So start with a tight primary chain and pull the gearbox forward with the adjuster to achieve the right slack. If you go too far then go back too far before coming forward again.

Get the puller as tight as it will go, then apply heat and large hammer, it will let go with a bang but should not go far.
Click to expand...
Get the tension on the puller good and tight and then hit the end of the extractor bolt. It will pop off.
 
The side of the sprocket with the larger hole goes towards the engine, it's a taper on the crank so you can only get it on one way. The woodruff key is just for positioning the sprocket but be sure its fully seated in the slot.
 
if not recent & or unknown, prob a good idea to go with a sprocket remove, when at home, then way better odds, if not easy peasy, with an on the road scenario popping up
 
74ok said:
if not recent & or unknown, prob a good idea to go with a sprocket remove, when at home, then way better odds, if not easy peasy, with an on the road scenario popping up
Click to expand...
Sir, I think you've had a few too many...time to cut you off Eh! 🤪
 
kommando said:
No, its the last action in the tension sequence is to pull the gearbox forward enough so its against the front of the top and bottom bolt in the gearbox mounting holes so the stronger pull of the rear chain is pulling the box back against an immovable object. So start with a tight primary chain and pull the gearbox forward with the adjuster to achieve the right slack. If you go too far then go back too far before coming forward again.

Get the puller as tight as it will go, then apply heat and large hammer, it will let go with a bang but should not go far.
Click to expand...
Ok, I think understand. The final tensioning has to be done by pulling forward, not back. Then lock everything up.
 
Supercat said:
Ok, I think understand. The final tensioning has to be done by pulling forward, not back. Then lock everything up.
Click to expand...
Correct, if you push the gearbox back the bolts are in the rear of the generous clearance gearbox holes. The rear chain always wins and no matter how much torque is applied to the gearbox mounting nuts and bolts it will move backwards if there is space.
 
kommando said:
Correct, if you push the gearbox back the bolts are in the rear of the generous clearance gearbox holes. The rear chain always wins and no matter how much torque is applied to the gearbox mounting nuts and bolts it will move backwards if there is space.
Click to expand...
K, primary chain tensioned, bolts torqued, stator nuts torqued and feeler gushed used to make sure no contact with rotor. Clutch back together and adjusted. Rear chain tensioner. Primary cover on. Oil added to primary. I think it’s test start time?
 
74ok said:
bud from the states on a goldwing, had an alt go bad on the way here,
bought a car batt & strapped it down, gets u where u wanna go, if really far, charging up as required
Click to expand...
I had to do the same with my Bonneville once
 
It’s at about 12.02 volts while running, at 12.3 or so now that she has been off for a minute. I am getting continuity to groin on one of the stator wires. Or some continuity I should say.
 
K, have disconnected stator this time. There is continuity between the two stator wires and none to groin with either. Would connecting the podtronics black wire to battery negative bipass some things and allow charging?
 
Did it and it seemed to be charging perfecting at beginning of test ride. Battery is now a perfect 12.6 and just over after returning from five minute ride. However, didn’t seem to be increasing volts when reconfirm after ride. Just was sitting around 12.5-6
 
Also, as simulator light still comes in with black wire from podtronics going straight to battery. Should I just try to get to north Sydney?
 
If you think the rotor, stator and regulator are all working properly I would bypass all the factory wiring. Connect the stator wires directly to your reg/rec (yellow wires) and the reg/rec black (- post) and red (+ post) directly to the battery.
 
With an ammeter, you would know what your rotor/stator was doing because it shows current flow direction and strength of flow. If the needle is on the negative side of the ammeter's zero, then charge is flowing out of the battery. If the needle is on the positive side of Zero, then current is flowing into the battery from the rotor/stator....

With a volt meter, you have to guess. That's why if you have a voltmeter installed on your bike, you keep an eye on it in the beginning, so you get an idea of what the meter looks like when everything is working properly. This way you notice the drop in voltage sooner as you ride, which gives you a chance to pull in somewhere by choice rather than be stuck in no man's land.

I always have my bike plugged into this tiny 2 amp battery tender. It's a really tiny unit. I also have one of those quick disconnect pigtails going to the battery terminals and exiting under my seat. If my battery was loosing charge, I could pull in somewhere and plug the charger in with no disassembly...
 

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