Broken clutch cable and havent found the end cap?

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Well done! You would never have been able to get it out any other way.

Where did you buy new gaskets?
I need to seal up my tranny case and kickstart lever leaks.
 
If I didnt want to take the cover off I would A.) drain the oil, B.) tape a half inch or 3/8 piece of tubing on to my shop vac, C.) go dredging with it.

The shop vac will probably need a good bath after or it will forever have dust sticking to the inside of the hose from the oil residue.

Russ
 
Photos prove my sore point that cable end was fine to leave there as any oil added would weep past the pin end to get to gears by time ya swung a leg over and only thing oil does in outer cover area is keep rust off below the stuff that needs rust protection. Personally I think you are lazy ass mechanic not to have taken the tranny completely down while so close so may have to dig in again too soon. Time will tell what path of logic to follow.
 
Gearbox was gone through when I did the layshaft bearing a couple of years ago. I think it'll be fine
 
Gearbox was gone through when I did the layshaft bearing a couple of years ago.
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Well even more reason to have let sleeping dogs lie but I'd be considered even crazier if not saying good on you for getting to it. Now we won't know what if anything it could of done unless I drop similar down in mine. hobot
 
I have never had a clutch cable break down that end before, have up at the handle bar end where it runs throught the end of the lever, went through a few cables about 1 every 6 months untill I started to put a bit of grease on the end of the cable where it runs throught the lever, I have never broken one since, so anywhere the cable can rub on anything put a bit of grease on it and you won't have any problems and when doing a service just dab a bit more clean grease on the cable ends, it only takes a few seconds to do.

Ashley
 
Just thinking about it for the cable to break down that end, is your cable having a straight run to the clutch arm where it enters the gearbox, a good chance that the clutch arm in not lined up with the hole where the cable enters.

Ashley
 
ashman said:
Just thinking about it for the cable to break down that end, is your cable having a straight run to the clutch arm where it enters the gearbox, a good chance that the clutch arm in not lined up with the hole where the cable enters.

Ashley
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Right on with this statement.
John,
Ensure that the cable entry point and the Clutch-operating lever (item #33) are aligned. Your Mrk111 should have a brass breather that is on the inner cover just behind the clutch cable entry on the outer cover. Use that as a gauge. Or take a line on the operating lever and mark with a sharpie the top of the inner and put the outer cover back on. The mark and the entry point for the cable should be very close. There is one more thing to check and that is your clutch (hand lever) should be able to be pulled with one finger. That’s right! one finger. If you are using more then you need to adjust your clutch friction plate/ stack height. You want to find the sweet spot for the pressure plate. Think of a compound bow if you ever pulled one as you are putting a bead on a deer. (Sorry that’s my Ted Nugent coming out) There is a point where you pull with a lot of effort and when it cams over it gets very easy. You want it just before that point. :wink: This will make your cable last. On an off note, are you going to Cooperstown Jellystone Park Regional Rally?
May be see you there?
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
^^^^ yeah, except...............
I think of my clutch pull as a "Theft Deterrent System". that is: if some pussy trys to steal my bike, they ain't making it too far.
I have never had a brit bike with one finger action, maybe they are out there, but none have ever crossed my path.

It take a little effort to ride my norton.
 
I have never had a brit bike with one finger action, maybe they are out there, but none have ever crossed my path.
(Quote)

Mark,
I can't seem to get the two vids to work with photo bucket to show you all four fingers will pull the clutch to articulate with a standard commando/clutch setup. Such is the Internet. A frustration in time and energy. I must be too old. But believe what you will. I have two bikes that are set as stated.
There is a good kit that CNW sells with hydraulics.
Time or money.... your choice. It really boils to that.
Thomas
CNN
 
Tom
I'll check that when I get to the cable install. Probably Thursday now it looks like with work and the world cup semis going on. First I heard about that rally not sure if I can make that one or not
 
Mark said:
^^^^ yeah, except...............
I think of my clutch pull as a "Theft Deterrent System". that is: if some pussy trys to steal my bike, they ain't making it too far.
I have never had a brit bike with one finger action, maybe they are out there, but none have ever crossed my path.

It take a little effort to ride my norton.
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My Commando used to take 4 fingers to pull the clutch. You can spend a ton of money on a very nice hydraulic clutch.... or you could add an extra plate in your clutch basket, teflon lined clutch cable and enjoy 1 finger clutch action. It's so easy I don't know why everyone doesn't do it.
 
My Commando used to take 4 fingers to pull the clutch. You can spend a ton of money on a very nice hydraulic clutch.... or you could add an extra plate in your clutch basket, teflon lined clutch cable and enjoy 1 finger clutch action. It's so easy I don't know why everyone doesn't do it.
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I been doing it as Johnnymac says on 2 Combats for un-noticed effort to clutch compared to my 15 yr old modern cable clutcher. Main thing is getting stack height nice and I do that by gosh/by golly til spring just barely slips into groove w/o resistance and I get there by mix/matching/adding plates and also with cut down pressure plate if needed, off which I've the factory thick and two thinner ones - then if bored can measure to see how close to DynoDaves ideal it might be. Used to carry spare cable on my 1st Combat but now only my modern cable strainer. Not bad id to carry spare cable end repair kit even so.
 
hobot said:
Photos prove my sore point that cable end was fine to leave there as any oil added would weep past the pin end to get to gears by time ya swung a leg over and only thing oil does in outer cover area is keep rust off below the stuff that needs rust protection. Personally I think you are lazy ass mechanic not to have taken the tranny completely down while so close so may have to dig in again too soon. Time will tell what path of logic to follow.
Click to expand...

IF AINT BROKEN DONT FIX IT. RIDE AND ENJOY. told YA I'D NAIL YA ASS TO THE WALL IF I THOUGHT YOU MIGHT BE WRONG. GOOD ONYA THOUGH, USUALLY ONCE METAL BITS BREAK OFF IN A TRANNY, THEY MIGRATE TO THE BOTTOM AND STAY THERE. LIKE THE BIT BROKEN OFF THE FORK IN MY 850.
 
Broken clutch cable and havent found the end cap?


Kerinorton has been out with the nails again, but we're still singin!
 
I look up to those that have time and discipline to check chain inside TS case every 5000 miles as manual demands and replace crank bearings with each head gasket check up too. Each of us has their own tolerance level for peace of mind to just head on out or spend more quality fettering time in worship postures of the Commando.
 
Simply replacing the clutch cable with one of the teflon versions will do wonders for clutch pull.
 
I tried the extra plate and got a slipping clutch. I need to try that teflon cable although my clutch isn't bad especially once the diaphragm breaks over, I could hold it with 1 finger but not pull it with only 1.
 
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