Broken clutch cable and havent found the end cap?

The cable I got from OldBritts was larger in diameter than its replacement. I dont know if it was one of the teflon ones or not but clutch pull is the same (3 fingers)

speirmoor said:

The cable I got from OldBritts was larger in diameter than its replacement. I dont know if it was one of the teflon ones or not but clutch pull is the same (3 fingers)

Click to expand...

Although a nice Teflon cable is helpful, it's only about 5% of an easy pull clutch remedy.

Here is the not so secret answers that everyone seem to complicate. Hopefully this will keep you from breaking cable.

My clutch diaphragm is ever so slightly beyond flat and shows slightly bowed (convex) at rest and will go even more convex when the clutch lever is pulled in.
If your diaphragm is flat or entering to a concave position then the clutch gets harder to pull having to bring it from concave past flat to convex where it releases. A really hard to pull clutch is surely to be quite concave in appearance at rest. Stack height needs to be increased to bring the diaphragm to a more flat position.

That being said, there is a fine line here. Anything further to the convex (bowed out) region and you begin to loose clutch pressure.

This is the key.
You want the diaphragm very close to flat at rest but not quite (ever so slightly bowed(convex)).
This, of course, is where everyone speaks of stack height to archive this diaphragm position and how the diaphragm relates to the machined raised portion of the pressure plate where its effects are applied.

In addition, as a clutch wears this convex(somewhat) position will eventually become flat and go to a concave (harder to pull) position. This is where I get new clutch plates and all is well again.
Piece of cake.
http://atlanticgreen.com/ndnsclutch.htm

I routinely accidently get my Combats clutch unnoticed effort in similar range or better than my new girls learner SV650, by getting stack so spring stops out on it just as spring edge able to enter the groove past it retaining spiral. There are various thickness pressure plates for this purpose if not making you own on top of mix/match of stack plates. Also plates stamped out so one edge is rounder than other which I arrange for spring ease to over come, ie: faced inward as so easy to over come by lever outward. i back adjuster off 1/4" turn or less.

DogT said:

I tried the extra plate and got a slipping clutch. I need to try that teflon cable although my clutch isn't bad especially once the diaphragm breaks over, I could hold it with 1 finger but not pull it with only 1.

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DogT
Are you running the 750-clutch pack? Items #42X4 ,#43 X3 and #44 (060745 P/P)or an 850?
The 850-clutch pack adds one more steel plate and one more friction plate with a thinner pressure plate 063768 on the 850 setup. This helps in curing clutch slip as it give more total friction area to the clutch system as a whole. I am not sure if the steel plates are the same thickness between 750 and 850 as I purchased surflex clutch kits. Plus I am too lazy to go out to the garage and check. I know the 750 P/P is thicker than the 850 because of the added steel plate and friction plate.
Something to mull over while sipping on a Guinness. :wink:
Cheers,
CNN

The 750 fiber plates are also thicker than the 850 fiber plates. I believe they are .020" thicker. According the Barnett site;
850=3.0 mm=.118"
750=3.5mm=.138"
Although I could have sworn my Barnett 850 plates were .121" when I measured them. Anyway my point is sometimes you can mix 750 and 850 fiber and steel plates to get the number you want. I try to get my stack @ 1.172" w/ stock 850 basket. I use that number because when I looked up original factory dimensions and added them together that was the total I came up with. I don't know if it's the right way, but it works for me. I am sure if you talk to 5 guys you will get 5 different answer.
Pete

This may also help, distributed a few months ago by Andover...



Cheers, Pushrod