Brake shoe lining thickness

Anyone have a NOS set of front brake shoes they can measure, or know what original lining thickness was? My 71 TLS brake is pretty close to the end of adjustment with a brand new set of Ferodo shoes. The original ones I took off were the same way. I had the drum skimmed,but they only took .012 thou off. My plan is to send the original shoes to Vintage Brake for new thicker linings, but I'd like to have a baseline to go by before sending them.
Thanks

How much of the shoes contacts the drum when you pull them on. ?

Used chalk, or blue, to try this, to see ?

I've discussed this in another thread, the Ferodo shoes are 200mm NOT 8" which is 203.2mm, they are half worn out before you start, the standard lining thickness is 3/16" , I manufacture my own Norton front brake shoes and use 1/4" material and then radius grind them to my desired diameter usually about 20 thou under 8"

I arced them in using the sandpaper glued to drum method, got pretty good contact all the way around. The fellow at Vintage Brake suggested I shim the ends of the shoes where they contact the cams. Not quite sure how I should go about this though. A little searching here has turned up other references to this problem, maybe someone who's done this can chime in ?

madass140 said:

I've discussed this in another thread, the Ferodo shoes are 200mm NOT 8" which is 203.2mm, they are half worn out before you start, the standard lining thickness is 3/16" , I manufacture my own Norton front brake shoes and use 1/4" material and then radius grind them to my desired diameter usually about 20 thou under 8"

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How do I go about ordering a set? PM me if you like
Thanks

MikeG said:

I arced them in using the sandpaper glued to drum method, got pretty good contact all the way around. The fellow at Vintage Brake suggested I shim the ends of the shoes where they contact the cams. Not quite sure how I should go about this though. A little searching here has turned up other references to this problem, maybe someone who's done this can chime in ?

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I've glued shims on before.. but only on yard beater dirt bikes. I vote for Madass shoes

shipping cost is the killer, in their own box the shipping weight is 520grams , the shipping cost 500g to 1kg is more than double under 500grams, if I put the shoes in a padded envelope the shipping weight is 490 grams which is $21 shipping by normal air mail Fedex will be between $30 and $35,
my front brake shoes for Commando are $40 + shipping,
the post office here is a killer, they insist I use (buy) their boxes to ship my items, which are not practical, so they charge me the cost of their box to use my own box, hows that,

I got some shoes from EuroTrash, I think, which were supposed to be the RGM high friction front shoes. When I tried to put them on, I couldn't get them into the drum unless I removed the shims under the end of the brake shoe. When I did that and arced them on the drums with the #80 paper glued to the drums, they reduced enough so I could put the shims back on the end of the shoes. I've been happy with mine, they haul me down from 60 a whole lot better than the originals ever did, which was pretty much like dragging your feet or shifting down after watching what is going on 3 miles ahead of you on the highway (I495 around DC). After 2 hauls down, though, they fade pretty much, but the way I ride, it doesn't matter. I had a thread on arcing the front shoes maybe 2 years ago. I've had Triumph guys tell me my front brakes are nice. Probably lots better than the Victor fronts. They look like something you play vinyl records on.

Dave
69S

MikeG said:

I arced them in using the sandpaper glued to drum method, got pretty good contact all the way around. The fellow at Vintage Brake suggested I shim the ends of the shoes where they contact the cams. Not quite sure how I should go about this though. A little searching here has turned up other references to this problem, maybe someone who's done this can chime in ?

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It’s easy, just obtain some flat metal at least .090 thou thick, depending on how much room you have. Any thicker metal will be difficult to bend.
Cut out 2 pieces (for a SLS, 4pieces for a 2LS e.t.c.) to the width of the flat on brake shoe, (where it fits on the brake cam) bend one end at near right angles to fit on shoe, and ditto the other end . repeat on the other metal plate for shoe number 2. When assembled, the metal will be retained on the shoe if you do the job properly.