Boyer trouble

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seattle##gs

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I have a Boyer black box...the power wire from the harness going to the white wire on the Boyer box reads 12.5 volts. As soon as I connect the white wire it drops to 2.4 volts. Why? No spark.
 
Maybe high resistance somewhere between the battery and your “power wire?”

Try a connecting a test jumper lead direct from the battery live terminal, to the Boyer.


Suspect the kill switch, fuse holder, key switch.
 
Here's a new one.....The hot wire I was using, white/brown, reads 12.5 but no spark. If I run a jumper to the - battery terminal I get a good spark. For some reason the hot wire is unusable. Why?
 
If the wire is broken internally except for a couple of strands you get full voltage but no amps.
 
Good advice so far, and it sounds like you're well on your way to having this sorted. Just to add 2 cents to the conversation - voltage loss is caused by: "poor connections, bad contacts, insulation problems, or damaged conductors".
 
seattle##gs said:
Here's a new one.....The hot wire I was using, white/brown, reads 12.5 but no spark. If I run a jumper to the - battery terminal I get a good spark. For some reason the hot wire is unusable. Why?
Click to expand...
Triton Thrasher had provided the most likely devices at fault. Look there first.
 
the white with brown is from the bulb for the ign warning light. if wired correctly a white ( key on ) goes to the bulb and the w/b is grounded buy the assimalator to light the bulb. with the bulb in the circuit it was a resistor and i am surprised you did not burn out the bulb. the kill switch should have a white / yellow to the boyer and a white to the kill switch if you are going to use it.
 
I could find no other hot wire to work with. Usually it is a white/yellow or white but nothing showed 12V. I found a s spare tab on the key switch so I used that.
 
seattle##gs said:
I could find no other hot wire to work with. Usually it is a white/yellow or white but nothing showed 12V. I found a s spare tab on the key switch so I used that.
Click to expand...

White/brown* is certainly the wrong wire to connect the ignition to, as Bill said.
Any white should certainly show battery volts and also white/yellow if the kill switch is connected and working so how did you test for volts?

*Edit: This is assuming it's your Mk2A Commando and not something else?
 
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Boyer trouble
 
seattle##gs said:
It is someone else's Norton. I used a meter to find a hot wire.
Click to expand...

So, what "Norton" is it?

If it's not a '71-on Commando then we need to know what it is as white/brown wil not be the charge warning bulb-to-assimilator wire.
 
how about you spend a little time studying a wiring schematic for the year you are working on. if you did you would not be chasing your tail and asking these questions.

seattle##gs said:
It is someone else's Norton. I used a meter to find a hot wire.
Click to expand...
 
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