Boosting procedure

"Bike is fine today , started right up leaving all lights off. Battery 8 months old. Voltmeter test 12. 4 solid."

FWIW, 12.4VDC is less than it should be. 12.6VDC is a fully charged lead/acid battery. at 12.4 it is around 75-80% charged. IOW, in school your battery would be a "C" student! More bike charging capability or regular use of a "smart" battery charger would make it an "A" student!

Another approach is to get your BMI up to around the 30 range - you won't need the heated vests - LOL

Deets55 said:

NOCO - Boost Eyelet Cable w/X-Connect Adapter - GBC007

Boost eyelet cable w/X-Connect adapter is designed for automotive and powersport applications. Quickly switch between charging and jump starting.

no.co

NOCO - 1000A Lithium Jump Starter - GB40

The GB40 is a portable lithium-ion battery jump starter booster pack that delivers 1,000-amps for jump starting a car, boat, trucks and more.

no.co

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That looks to be viable other than you need to carry the charged Lithium power pack with you.

Torontonian said:

What is the safest way to boost from a car battery a Norton with electric start and stock positive ground. ?
I ask after running lights and 2 electric vests at night. In the morning battery was weak and I was offered a boost.
Also I'm going to buy a small trickle charger in case this happens again to plug in overnight. I'm thinking of using the electric vest plug which leads to the battery. How would I wire it so that polarity is correct ? Thanks.

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To answer the first part of your question - how to jump start (boost) the MKIII from a car battery, you would need terminals on the battery or the high current starter wires that will accommodate automotive jumper cables. The logical places to attach to would be the positive battery connection on the crankcase and the negative terminal on the starter relay. I would attach large copper ring terminals to those points that could safely accept a big clamp from jumper cables.

As for heated vests etc., you need a way of turning the vest off when you come to a stop, when your battery is vulnerable. I've seen some that have Bluetooth controls on the handlebars that would simplify that task. A voltmeter would certainly be recommended as well.

Deets55 said:

Just tested this the other day
MKIII
PC 625 AGM battery
3 phase Podtronics
LED lights
Boyer MK4
With 1 Gerbring heated jacket liner 3,000 RPM’s is what I need to get a charging voltage (around 13.6v) , at idle it will just get over 12v
Packing a charger and extension cord will help when parked. I think prolonged low speed driving will eventually deplete your battery, or at least put you in a no run condition.
I have a NOCO GB70 jump pack that will start almost anything.
I think the GB40 with the jumper wire harness will easily get you started, and quite possibly work as a secondary battery while driving. I have never tested that so can not vouch for the safety factor.
Pete

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Thanks Pete , I run the exact same system. 2 vests at night were likely the big draw. LED's everywhere, I will avoid
dual vests usage in town , only for the open highway now.

Derek Wilson said:

Another approach is to get your BMI up to around the 30 range - you won't need the heated vests - LOL

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We push the limits of the riding season , tomorrow I finish the end of trout season in Elora , camping overnight. It will be cold.

When riding even my modern bikes with grips and vest on , I follow same routine once within ten minutes or so of my destination I turn both the grips and vest off to give system some time to recover , usually don’t feel the chill until I’m off the bike ….

Deets55 said:

NOCO - Boost Eyelet Cable w/X-Connect Adapter - GBC007

Boost eyelet cable w/X-Connect adapter is designed for automotive and powersport applications. Quickly switch between charging and jump starting.

no.co

NOCO - 1000A Lithium Jump Starter - GB40

The GB40 is a portable lithium-ion battery jump starter booster pack that delivers 1,000-amps for jump starting a car, boat, trucks and more.

no.co

Click to expand...

2 1/2 Lbs. and GB40 is small enough to pack into the carrier easily. Something for me to consider . I wonder how long the Lithium life is of the unit.

Torontonian said:

2 1/2 Lbs. and GB40 is small enough to pack into the carrier easily. Something for me to consider . I wonder how long the Lithium life is of the unit.

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A few of the suggestions are no addressing the root cause, but why not just employe a chase truck? carrying a loose battery is stupid and potentially dangerous; think about what could happen if you crash. The idea adds weight, takes up space and presents considerably poorer ratio of benefits/detriments. Slightly less dangerous and more to the point why not just carry a gas powered generator?

I am sincerely not trying to rain on your parade and I am surprised that no one (yet) suggested that a loose primary chain could cause...Your plan to go to one vest will work.

Best.

RoadScholar said:

carrying a loose battery is stupid and potentially dangerous

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Look at the NOCO devices in the link above. They certainly look safe to me. The 1000 amp model is small enough to carry in a tail bag, it doesn't need to be attached to the bike. Not my cup o' tea, but a viable option if one is paranoid about running your battery low.

My heated Powerlet jacket and glove liners use a variable two channel wireless rheostat controller I mount on handlebar on my Bonneville and I have rarely put it in the higher ranges as the liner, esp the gloves, can literally cook my skin in places.

So perhaps OP needs to be more frugal with the wick on his heated gear when at lower rpms.

Make sure the car is not running when you put the jump leads on your bike

Whats wrong with a vest containing its own/self contained battery/power source? There are some very good ones out there and a lot of variables are quickly eliminated.
Take your motorcycles out of the scenario as a power supply.

As for jumping your bike from another source...always Pos+ to Pos+ (red to red) and Neg- to Neg- regardless of eithers ground connection and always WITH matching voltage from source to recipient - vice versa.

Lineslinger said:

Whats wrong with a vest containing its own/self contained battery/power source? There are some very good ones out there and a lot of variables are quickly eliminated.
Take your motorcycles out of the scenario as a power supply.

As for jumping your bike from another source...always Pos+ to Pos+ (red to red) and Neg- to Neg- regardless of eithers ground connection and always WITH matching voltage from source to recipient - vice versa.

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Any Links to self contained vest power source items to buy ?

Torontonian said:

Any Links to self contained vest power source items to buy ?

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Quite a few options on Amazon, but read the reviews before buying

I spent last winter riding with Gerbing heated gloves which connect to their heated under jacket. It was my Xmas present! Well made. It transformed my cold weather riding. Was only cold when my mates stopped to warm up!

I find the full heat settings too warm and in the coldest weather, ran at 2/3 setting on the controllers. After some trial and error, it seems to work best when you don't notice it, i.e. the kit doesn't feel warm, it simply stops you noticing the cold at all. I could ride for hours, remaining relaxed and comfortable.

So far, I've connected mine to the bike battery. I won't do that on the Commando, I don't trust my alternator's output. I'll look into a dedicated rechargeable lithium pack. But that will limit the duration of rides. Having a modified Mk3, I'm thinking I might be able to strap an independent lithium pack on the shelf that the big black airbox used to occupy, below my air filter, with a pigtail to plug into. Or in the area currently occupied by the tool tray. Or maybe, if father Xmas is generous, get two and do both arrangements, to swap over when the first runs low.

I still get cold though, when I wash the road salt off my bike after each ride

Mart UK said:

I spent last winter riding with Gerbing heated gloves which connect to their heated under jacket. It was my Xmas present! Well made. It transformed my cold weather riding. Was only cold when my mates stopped to warm up!

I find the full heat settings too warm and in the coldest weather, ran at 2/3 setting on the controllers. After some trial and error, it seems to work best when you don't notice it, i.e. the kit doesn't feel warm, it simply stops you noticing the cold at all. I could ride for hours, remaining relaxed and comfortable.

So far, I've connected mine to the bike battery. I won't do that on the Commando, I don't trust my alternator's output. I'll look into a dedicated rechargeable lithium pack. But that will limit the duration of rides. Having a modified Mk3, I'm thinking I might be able to strap an independent lithium pack on the shelf that the big black airbox used to occupy, below my air filter, with a pigtail to plug into. Or in the area currently occupied by the tool tray. Or maybe, if father Xmas is generous, get two and do both arrangements, to swap over when the first runs low.

I still get cold though, when I wash the road salt off my bike after each ride

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Good idea. I don't ride cold weather (rode in winter for two years in college, never again) but if I did your idea covers a lot of needs.