Best upgrade

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bmwbob

bmwbob

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I've had my Norton for 30 years now and new all the 4 previous owners (all dead now) except the original owner who sold it to a friend with 1500 miles back in the early 70s. I bought it in 1990 from a friend, but it needed lots of help.

I added the following that made the bike so much better:

Electronic ignition No more Lucas
1975 Exhaust header No more lose header
Mikuni Carb no more dying at stop lights
Steering damper No more wobble
Barnett Clutch No more slipping clutch
RoadRider tires They just work

So what's your list:
 
mikes xs breather dave taylor head steady single 34mm mikuni with KN filter pazon surefire ignition tympanium regalater/rectumfrier sealed battery roadriders 13mm magura front master cylinder braided ss front brake hose ss pistons in front caliper drilled fluid six front disc LED headlite …... to name a few
 
Interesting question, should stimulate diverse responses.

1) New wiring harness
2) Rebuild/clean/adjust switch gear
3) Replace ISO innards and get the vernier adjustable (Mk3 type) end caps at the same time.
4) Replace the rectifier/zenner with an integrated unit.
5) Add Keagle clamps to your swingarm pivot, you may end up not needing the steering damper.

These suggestions will increase reliability and drive-ability.

Best.
 
Here are items that made a notable difference for me in the performance/operation of my '73 850:

CNW Brembo mastercylinder - coupled with Ferrodo pads and SS brake line - brakes feel and stop like a current machine.
Swing Arm clamps - rock solid in the twisties - no steering damper necessary
Fauth Fork Mod - no clanging at top-out, handles cobblestones/potholes/twisties very nicely.
TriSpark
Alton E-start
Shorai 18AH Battery
CNW 520 chain kit
OEM Balanced Exhaust - shouldn't really call it an upgrade since the bike would have come with it when new but it wasn't on there when I bought it
Long velocity stacks for the Amals - noticeable improvement in power if accompanied by appropriate main jet change.
Avon Road Riders replaced the mismatched tires that were on the bike when I bought it in '06. Replacement RoadRiders ever since.
CNW Rearset (makes bike more comfortable for me - looks fabulous)
New OEM-style wiring harness
ADD additional elec ground connection directly to engine


These are items I wanted just because I wanted them, not because I "needed" them! ;)

Smiths E-gauges - Not sure I'd do this one again since my OEM gauges worked fine and the OEM tripmeter is easer to read! ;)
Amal Premiers - nice for the idle jet but my sleeved OEMS worked fine. Nice carbs, though and I recommend them as opposed to restoring/sleeving old ones.
Falcon Aluminum Shocks - look cool but I can't tell that they work any better than the Hagons I installed some years back.
 
Bought mine new in 1975. First thing I had to do was to have the tach drive o-ring replaced with a real oil seal. No more oil on my right boot.
Electronic ignition followed - maybe 1981? My first Boyer, now Tri-Spark.
Sleeved master cylinder, better brakes.
3 phase charging system. Halogen headlamp, now LED
LED instrument, blinker and tail lamps.
A louder horn
MKIII vernier isos
Lots of stainless and tastefully done chrome.
Tire choice has changed, no more K81's
Mike's XS breather. No more oil leaks at valve covers. Silicone gaskets too.
CnW oil tank mod, no more oil leaks at the tank.
CnW e-start - no more sore knees. Got the RGM kick lever first though.
Stainless spokes in front wheel, soon to have the rear too. Just because.

... to name a few.

edit: On order now:
CnW head steady
NYC Norton fork bushings.
 
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Maney forged 9.5:1 pistons
Webcam 312a
4" radius lifters
Dynamically balanced to 63%
IWIS cam, primary and drive chains
ARP bolt kits
Maney oil junction block
Comstock sump breather
Fullauto CNC head, flow ported, 1.5 oversize valves, conical springs, lightened rockers, drilled rocker spindles.
TriSpark ign.
2EX1 repro Maney exhaust
CNW Brembo kit, Iso kit, and ARP hardware
Lansdowne dampers
Expensive new genuine fork tubes (old ones pitted with rust, and have caused the seals to now leak)
Excell rims with SS spokes
RGM MZ Gold rear pads
IKON shocks
Madass alloy tank, side covers and SS axles
New wiring harness
NYC Norton rear sets and Kegler clamps
SS HW from Rocky Point
Amal Premiers
Dyno Dave Clutch Rod Seal
Venhill cables all around
LED head n tail

And more. Sheesh. :confused:
 
Not going to boor you with list ,but most signicant/helpful mods for my bike were: 1. CnW brembo m/c with SS line , ferodo pads , rebuilt caliper with SS pistons
2. Upgraded ISO’s , vernier adjusters with DTaylor headsteady with spring
3. Madass 19 alloy rims ,SS spokes, nipples and SS axels,0ne piece rear
4. Welded on nuts to set pivot in swing arm , UK bars
5. JRB Landsdowne fork internals with new tubes
 
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RoadScholar said:
5) Add Keagle clamps to your swingarm pivot, you may end up not needing the steering damper.
Click to expand...
I pay attention to what you say on this forum :)
Never heard of Keagle clamps and nothing relative to Nortons comes up on forum or google search.
Please explain a bit more or provide a link to investigate this bit.
 
Kegler Clamps.
They pin the swing arm, taking out the slop, if there is any.
Don’t need them on a Mk III.
 
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You foks reminded me of the other upgrades I forgot about!

Sleeved master cylinder
Braided brake line
Honda tachometer seal
Custom front fork mod
Breather mod
Oil tank mod
Dyno Dave Clutch Rod Seal
Stainless spokes.

But with 100K the engine needs a complete overhaul. When does it end ;)
 
In over 43 years of ownership from new 850 Commando last of the kick start model in 1976 and I have done a lot of mods in fact changing the whole bike in that time and a lot might disagree in what I have done but to me I built my bike the way I wanted it so will start from the beginning.

First thing Koni shocks on the rear in 1978 and still running with these shocks, rebuilt for the first time 4 years ago, also added a Lochead Oil Cooler and still running this oil cooler.
Buying a 1957 Wideline Featherbed frame in 1979 and starting the conversion in 1980 from Commando to Featherbed for better handling and better stable at high speeds.
Part of the conversion crank balanced for the Featherbed frame 72%
Stock cam built up to Combat specs, still running this cam.
Rebore and oversize Hepolite pistons, stock bore worn out from to many burnouts from being young and silly, stock bore worn oval, still flat top pistons.
Lots of port work on head and manifolds for the carbs using the stock valves which I am still using but have replaced the springs, head also shaved.
New Amal carbs old ones worn out.
Boyar EI.
Auto timing chain adjuster fitted and still running with it.
Akront alloy rims 19" back and front.
Commando front end rebuilt and Commando rear hub and front hub with new spokes for the Akront rims.
1957 Featherbed fuel tank with Innerstate seat and Commando front and rear guards.

This was like this for the most of its life after the conversion and handles great, smooth as with very little vibrations and this was a everyday ride and clocked up a lot of miles and never let me down except for a broken chain 2X and is a very reliable motor and set up.

Last rebuild just over 7 years ago now made a few more improvements.

Lansdown front end internals.
New second hand replacement crank case halfs old one had cracks around the main crank oil seal mount.
Motor completely rebuilt.
Round Alloy oil tank fitted replacing the original Featherbed oil tank.
Single Innerstate seat with the hump.
Joe Hunt Maggie and no longer need a big heavy battery and one of the best sparks and long life out of my plugs and always start on first kick every time.
T160 folding kick start lever.
PWKs Flatside carbs jetted for the cam and head work, but now thinking about going back to a new set of Amal Premier carbs.
Full Grimica 12" floating disc set up as well Master Cylinder and SS brake line.

This is all I plan on doing to this bike and the best thing its all been built by my hands so know every nut and bolt on the bike and its a one of a kind in my area, its my Hot Rod Norton and its a fun bike to ride and handles even better with lots of torque.
A lot of people might say I did the wrong thing converting my Commando to the Featherbed but I have owned both and what I have done has worked great for me, I ride it hard and push it to its limits and its been very good to me, most of it life has been a everyday rider and why I love it so much and will be with me till the day I die.

Ashley
 
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I would not say you did the wrong thing by changing to a Featherbed frame and a Seeley frame is even better, as long as you are not looking to improve your bike's resale price. A near original Commando might command a better price. These days you can buy a Featherbed frame with steering geometry to suit 18 inch wheels. I would like to own one, they have the classic look even with the slope on the motor.
 
ashman said:
In over 43 years of ownership from new 850 Commando last of the kick start model in 1976 and I have done a lot of mods in fact changing the whole bike in that time and a lot might disagree in what I have done but to me I built my bike the way I wanted it so will start from the beginning.

First thing Koni shocks on the rear in 1978 and still running with these shocks, rebuilt for the first time 4 years ago, also added a Lochead Oil Cooler and still running this oil cooler.
Buying a 1957 Wideline Featherbed frame in 1979 and starting the conversion in 1980 from Commando to Featherbed for better handling and better stable at high speeds.
Part of the conversion crank balanced for the Featherbed frame 72%
Stock cam built up to Combat specs, still running this cam.
Rebore and oversize Hepolite pistons, stock bore worn out from to many burnouts from being young and silly, stock bore worn oval, still flat top pistons.
Lots of port work on head and manifolds for the carbs using the stock valves which I am still using but have replaced the springs, head also shaved.
New Amal carbs old ones worn out.
Boyar EI.
Auto timing chain adjuster fitted and still running with it.
Akront alloy rims 19" back and front.
Commando front end rebuilt and Commando rear hub and front hub with new spokes for the Akront rims.
1957 Featherbed fuel tank with Innerstate seat and Commando front and rear guards.

This was like this for the most of its life after the conversion and handles great, smooth as with very little vibrations and this was a everyday ride and clocked up a lot of miles and never let me down except for a broken chain 2X and is a very reliable motor and set up.

Last rebuild just over 7 years ago now made a few more improvements.

Lansdown front end internals.
New second hand replacement crank hafts old one had cracks around the main crank oil seal mount.
Motor completely rebuilt.
Round Alloy oil tank fitted replacing the original Featherbed oil tank.
Single Innerstate seat with the hump.
Joe Hunt Maggie and no longer need a big heavy battery and one of the best sparks and long life out of my plugs and always start on first kick every time.
T160 folding kick start lever.
PWKs Flatside carbs jetted for the cam and head work, but now thinking about going back to a new set of Amal Premier carbs.
Full Grimica 12" floating disc set up as well Master Cylinder and SS brake line.

This is all I plan on doing to this bike and the best thing its all been built by my hands so know every nut and bolt on the bike and its a one of a kind in my area, its my Hot Rod Norton and its a fun bike to ride and handles even better with lots of torque.
A lot of people might say I did the wrong thing converting my Commando to the Featherbed but I have owned both and what I have done has worked great for me, I ride it hard and push it to its limits and its been very good to me, most of it life has been a everyday rider and why I love it so much and will be with me till the day I die.

Ashley
Click to expand...
 
Awesome build! I just want my bike to be reliable! If I want to go fast I can ride my BMW 1200GS even though it's not real fast, but I have hit hyperspeed with a 3rd gear roll on with a Suzuki Hayabusa
 
Interesting thread :)

For me the 'essential' mods are:
Electronic ignition
Reed valve breather (Mike's XS type)
Andover Norton Tach drive with garter seal
Bronze exhaust roses
Solid state reg/rectifier
Hemmings layshaft bearing
Sleeved master cylinder (or any 13mm upgrade)
Reinforcing plate on bottom of oil tank
Replacing Lucas bullet connectors with Jap style.
Oil seal mods to gearbox (X-rings or proper garter seals)

Then the highly desirable:
DT Head steady
Vernier Isos (Hemmings adjusters are good if the original rubbers are in good shape, otherwise the Upgrade kits are good now the rubber compound is softer)
Braided stainless brake hose
RGM floating disc & Lockheed racing caliper
External oil filter (if not already fitted)
Belt primary drive
IKON rear shocks
Lansdowne fork dampers
5-speed gearbox

Personal preference stuff:
Stainless fasteners, spokes.
Vivid metalflake paintwork because they're '70's In Your Face bikes and should be LOUD in every way :D

That said I've had 2 black & gold bikes which looked good too...

Tuning....
Yes, why not?
 
Looking at my 920 I think it might have been easier to jack up the spark plugs & put a new bike underneath!
Maney cases,crank & barrels.
J.C. modified Fullauto head.
Keihin CRs.
JS long rods & pistons.
TTI 5 speed box.
CNW/JC headsteady.
BMW K 75 S yokes.
Yamaha 600 Fazer forks with Maxton cartridges.
Maxton shocks.
Home made front hub & twin Yamaha discs with Blue spot Sumitomo's.
Suzuki GS 750 rear hub with Tokico caliper on home made carrier & disc.
Nissin 14mm master cylinders front & rear.
Avon Road Riders, 3.25 x 19 & 4.00 x 18.
Seeger exhaust nuts.
Rewire to my design with modern switchgear, fuses & relays.
Rose jointed rear ISO tie bar.
Front ISO support spring nicked from Jim Comstock & the best mod ever for a hard ridden 360deg. twin, a crank case reed valve.
If I could only pick two mods they would be the Maney crank having suffered two broken Norton twin cranks, & the reed valve which stops even the slightest oil misting when the motor is ridden hard for long periods.
The one brief I gave myself when building the bike was it still had to look like the 850 Interstate I drooled over in the mid seventies.

Martyn.
 
acotrel said:
I would not say you did the wrong thing by changing to a Featherbed frame and a Seeley frame is even better, as long as you are not looking to improve your bike's resale price. A near original Commando might command a better price. These days you can buy a Featherbed frame with steering geometry to suit 18 inch wheels. I would like to own one, they have the classic look even with the slope on the motor.
Click to expand...

Al I built my bike for myself and not interested in resale but you won't believe in how much I have been offered for my Norton a few years ago and I do know what prices Commando's are going for here in Aussie land and I can tell you it was way above the price of a Commando at the time and I knocked it back, I brought my Norton new when I was 17 and it will be with me till the day I leave this plant, and why would I want to put 18" wheels on when my Norton handles pretty good the way it is and how many Commando/Featherbeds do you see road legal on the road these days, as for a Seeley I have never rode one so can't comment but looking at your Seeley and I think my Featherbed looks way better, but then that my opinion.

Ashley
 
bmwbob said:
Awesome build! I just want my bike to be reliable! If I want to go fast I can ride my BMW 1200GS even though it's not real fast, but I have hit hyperspeed with a 3rd gear roll on with a Suzuki Hayabusa
Click to expand...

Bob I have been very lucky with my Norton, keep it well maintained, its been my everyday ride for most of my ownership and I thank it every time I get home from a safe ride with a thanks and a pat on the tank, it has no name but I call it bike, its showing its age in looks but it keeps going great, Its semi retired now and I have a Triumph Thruxton 1200S as my now every day rider, but I still love taking the Norton out and its still get a lot of attention where ever I go and while riding it so many other bikers pull up beside with the thumbs up, till I open it up and just take off from them, it surprises a lot of modern bikes.

Ashley
 
Rather than post a brag list, I'd say the most worthwhile mod I've ever done on mine was to replace the stock headsteady with a Dave Taylor link rod headsteady. It made the bike actually handle after 35 years of wallowing around. Probably the shimmed production racer type would work as well but a bit more work to set up. I've since gone to the CNW headsteady with Mk3 springs which is probably overkill but I was out there visiting Dolores Colorado and had to have it.
 
If not for electronic ignition, sleeved Amals with Stay-ups and a few other small things to stop the leaking, I would have given up on British motorcycles after the first one.
 
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