Best option for kick start o ring replacement?

Status
Not open for further replies.
K

KSUWildcatFan

Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Messages
1,043
Country flag
I need to replace the kick start o ring on my '74 commando 850. I can't seem to find a direct replacement anywhere. I heard X-Ring are good, but I have no idea which size to get.

Suggestions?

Also, I need a new kick start (I'm pretty sure mine wasn't actually made to fit my bike). I see several on eBay for $60-70. Is that about as cheap as I'm going to find one?

Thanks,
-Jordan
 
Factory O ring kicker seal was not intended to seal just stifle draining right out.
Trick if not machining for real oil seal is to fill in the case groove with chewing gum or cig pack foil layer strip, grease shaft and put light bead of RTV around it and fit together and wait to set to use.

I don't think any kicker lever was really made to fit Nortons well and any factory only stability depends solely on bolt clamping but kicker gap binds before real clamp force applied to splines. Trick is cut twice the size gap and put though bolt in with a robust back up nut.

hobot
 
hobot said:
Factory O ring kicker seal was not intended to seal just stifle draining right out.

hobot
Click to expand...

I think it actually was intended to seal, it just didn't do a great job.
 
Instead of replacing that worthless oring with another, here is a simple and effective solution.
You must still pop the cover off. Then heat the case around where the oring is with a propane torch or heat gun to pop out the kickshaft bushing.
You can buy this seal, Timkin #240731, seal number 9815 1.25 x 1 x .125 at your local oilseal dealer for around $6.00.
Lay the seal in there with a little locktite, pop the bushing in and you will be good to go and the cover will not be harmed.
 
pvisseriii said:
Instead of replacing that worthless oring with another, here is a simple and effective solution.
You must still pop the cover off. Then heat the case around where the oring is with a propane torch or heat gun to pop out the kickshaft bushing.
You can buy this seal, Timkin #240731, seal number 9815 1.25 x 1 x .125 at your local oilseal dealer for around $6.00.
Lay the seal in there with a little locktite, pop the bushing in and you will be good to go and the cover will not be harmed.
Click to expand...

+1 ! :wink:
 
These are the rings to use - some are purposly oversize and difficilt to install - but they seal. Work in the oversized rings with a wooden dowel rod.


Orings
1/16th by 3/8th OD viton clutch push rod seal
3/32 x 3/4 ID regular O ring shift lever - cram in or go to 5/8 ID Viton
1/16 square x 3/8 OD inner shift lever
Tranny kick - quad 1 ID 1-1/4 OD
Tranny cam & shift pawl 3/4 OD x 3/32 viton
 
pvisseriii said:
Instead of replacing that worthless oring with another, here is a simple and effective solution.
You must still pop the cover off. Then heat the case around where the oring is with a propane torch or heat gun to pop out the kickshaft bushing.
You can buy this seal, Timkin #240731, seal number 9815 1.25 x 1 x .125 at your local oilseal dealer for around $6.00.
Lay the seal in there with a little locktite, pop the bushing in and you will be good to go and the cover will not be harmed.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll see about giving that a try.

FWIW, I'm the person who bought your exhaust on eBay.. :)

-Jordan
 
KSUWildcatFan said:
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll see about giving that a try.

FWIW, I'm the person who bought your exhaust on eBay.. :)

-Jordan
Click to expand...
Oh Oh.......Just kidding. They are good Toga's and I hope they work for you. you should be seeing them tomorrow.
About the seal, I was changing that darn oring a lot and i even took a larger oring and carved it down only to have too much friction on the shaft. It didn't leak though. I heard of this procedure somewhere, I can't remember, maybe Captain Nortons, but it works and hasn't dripped a drop in a year.
 
jseng1 said:
These are the rings to use - some are purposly oversize and difficilt to install - but they seal Work in the ovresized rings with a wooden dowel rod.


Orings
1/16th by 3/8th OD viton clutch push rod seal
3/32 x 3/4 ID regular O ring shift lever - cram in or go to 5/8 ID Viton
1/16 square x 3/8 OD inner shift lever
Tranny kick - quad 1 ID 1-1/4 OD
Tranny cam & shift pawl 3/4 OD x 3/32 viton
Click to expand...


What would the chances be of building a larger specs page with this sort of imfomation on it, bearings, seals, alternative carb specs ect, with originals and alternatives,being a computer dummy I don't know how much work would be involved.
 
pvisseriii said:
Instead of replacing that worthless oring with another, here is a simple and effective solution.
You must still pop the cover off. Then heat the case around where the oring is with a propane torch or heat gun to pop out the kickshaft bushing.
You can buy this seal, Timkin #240731, seal number 9815 1.25 x 1 x .125 at your local oilseal dealer for around $6.00.
Lay the seal in there with a little locktite, pop the bushing in and you will be good to go and the cover will not be harmed.
Click to expand...

I just did this tonight based on the quote above. Worked like a freaking charm, and very easy. Thanks so much for the info bud.
 
New Andover Norton outer gearbox covers come ready to take the Mk3 oil seal 06-6145. Old covers can be modified likewise. That should cure oil leaks.

As for the kickstart levers, there are two sorts- 06-1464 pre-850 Mk2A/3 and 12-1018. Complete new levers come with pinch bolt and THICK washer for same. If this is left off, or a thin, standart one substituted, the lever seems tight at first but the clamping force is actually not big enough and the lever will come loose and eventually "flap" on the shaft, and at worst strip the teeth on the kickstart shaft and kickstart.
Hobot's tips sound as if he fell for an Indian imitation kickstart. These often need a hammer to go on the shaft as the module is "off". The shape has little to do with the original ones. They are also castings, not forgings, i.e. structurally weaker and will bend easier in service, and the thread for the pinch bolt tends to strip. They are also dirt cheap but remember- you get what you pay for!

Mk3 kickstart 12-1018 helps if the exhaust is in the way and the kickstart hits the silencer at one point- 12-1018 is cranked further outward.
 
The good folks at CNW offer a similar service at competitive price with polishing:

Best option for kick start o ring replacement?


This cover was so bad that almost didn't send it out to CNW, it looked like it had been the recipient of a full load of 00Buck at 30 yards.

RS
 
hobot has never yet acquired or fitted a reproduction kick lever but has had to deal with a couple of Norton real McCoys being bad buggered up in splines and drooling leaks. I had Phil FairSpares/Annover machine fit oil seal on Ms Peel but did the foil shim and RTV oil ring seal mod on plain ole Trixie Combat. Both stopped weeps at rest and both only gave slight oil film surround after hi rpm use with ATF.

I saw out kicker slot wide ~1/8" and remove a couple of kicker splines there then fit a through bolt with trimmed nut on end and not have so much to wipe off or struggle to remove and re-fti. One little bother has shown up on Trixie, the kicker hung up on the foot peg support, w/o me realizing that so took off outer cover with kicker freeing up in the process but finding nothing inside - I had to put back on to find the simple fault I wasted time on missing right off.
 
pvisseriii said:
You can buy this seal, Timkin #240731, seal number 9815 1.25 x 1 x .125 at your local oilseal dealer for around $6.00.
Lay the seal in there with a little locktite, pop the bushing in and you will be good to go and the cover will not be harmed.
Click to expand...

Do the MK2 750's suffer from the same problem and if so will the Timkin seal fit?
Gary
 
Although the 75's have this upgrade design, I believe the procedure will work with all AMC gearboxes including the 75's, how far back, I cannot say.
But to answer your question, yes.
 
I appreciate the reply. I am not sure if my 71 750 was leaking. Just attempting to compile a list of repairs prior to busting the cases.
 
T95 said:
I appreciate the reply. I am not sure if my 71 750 was leaking. Just attempting to compile a list of repairs prior to busting the cases.
Click to expand...

T-95 Mine is a '70 750 Roadster. So far so good from just riding around the neighborhood.
 
byrdman76 said:
T95 said:
I appreciate the reply. I am not sure if my 71 750 was leaking. Just attempting to compile a list of repairs prior to busting the cases.
Click to expand...

T-95 Mine is a '70 750 Roadster. So far so good from just riding around the neighborhood.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I take it yours was already leaking after the recent rebuild?
I am going to PM you with a couple of questions.
Gary
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top