best ever use of JB Weld ????

Before I start let me make it clean this is not ment to knock the stuff or other similar products or to mock those who for whatever reason have carried out repairs using it.

I have just read of repair being carried out by using JB Weld an I just wondered what is the most ambitious use of it on a Commando that actually worked and for how long did it hold together???

So who has any unusual or in some way impressive story of what this stuff can or can't fix. Picture of the repair would be good also to show it in action.

Well I've used it very little but in the 1980 a friend took the kick start shaft & a bunch of other stuff out of a Suzuki GS 550 he had built into a super light & fast street racer, he used JB weld to fill the big hole,in the case & finished it and buffed it out. Last I heard it was still holding!

well I dont think I would be using it to attempt to fix the loose 3 cush drive pegs has just been suggested in another thread. must be miracle stuff!!

I have never had the need to use JB Weld on my Commando but have seen it used on a variety of engines/transmission from cars to tractors. examples include: holes in a case or manifold (probably most common repair I have seen), non-critical stripped carburetor/manifold/engine block screw/bolt fittings, repairs for seeping carburetor casting plugs (required on any Quadrajet carb rebuild if never previously done). I know of such repairs that have lasted 20+ years. OTOH, I have never used it on something that would be seriously load-bearing and would not consider doing so.

madass140 said:

well I dont think I would be using it to attempt to fix the loose 3 cush drive pegs has just been suggested in another thread. must be miracle stuff!!

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That's the bit I read that started me thinking. I also remember that someone once said they tried to make petrol tap parts out of it!!

I have no problem with it as emergency repair or a permanent job if used for none critical parts. But as I live in UK getting new parts is easy an so is getting home should I brake down.

But like I said I wanted to know what other things people have done with it. Good or bad. As a permanent job or just a get you home emergency repair. Maybe it will help those who don't like the stuff release it has some good uses or give ideas for new uses to those who have no issues with using it.

When I install sleeves in Norton barrels I use a ring of it around the outside of the sleeve at the top and the inside of the bore at the bottom. It positively locates a stepped sleeve and stops the oil seepage you get when the sleeve breaks through pores in the barrel.

I have also used it to mount a lot of bearings that were slightly loose and have had better luck than with locktite bearing mount.

I also use it along with an interference fit to retain my bronze thread inserts.

I use it on the tapered plugs I install in the holes between the timing chest and crankcase.

I use it to retain the main crank seal in the engine case. Leaking around the OD of the seal is the main reason Norton crank seals leak.

I buy it in 6 packs of the industrial size tubes.

Thread repair -never, unless it is to seal a slightly damaged pipe thread. Jim

I use JBW alot. Getting mismatched fittings to mate permanently. Made a thumb size barrel fin out of it after head gasket blast out blew the JBW on piece off at 60 mph. JBW fixed the jet cut grooves from chambers to push rod tunnels on Peel most power producing small port standard head. I did find JBW groove filling giving up after half dozen head removals but easy to replace and razor back to flush. Trixie's two engine blow up punched out cases holding up fine a few years now with JBW and magnets opposite to draw into fractures on bottoms. I've rebuilt Peels tail light housing with JBW. Kept crashed off mirrors on stalks. JBW rebuilt Pee's side cover duz bracket and cover decay permanently. Left over JBW for non Norton needs has been used instead of bondo on Peel's much welded on frame mods, no worries of flaking off later. Peel's and Wes's fiber tank holes from my crashes permanently sealed and re-contoured by good ole JBW with Caswell's sealing inside prior. Wes's HiRyder tank barely holds maybe 2 gallons so constantly exposed to ethanol last 6-7 yr no problemo. If could dilute JBW to flow all over tank insides may be better than other options to protect form boozed gasoline. Just finished a vapor carb/tank for my mini bike fitting loose steel tube and mismatched fittings solved my cold weld goop. Dang 97 cc on regular carb would not pull me through thick grass nor up driveway steeps till on vapor which allowed plowing though tall pasture grass and pulled most the way to top of steeps so allowed me to reach mail box 1/2 mile away and return chuffed as can be on the success. JBW takes days to really set up and will soften after 400'F but still sticks till over 500'F then can pull stuff apart of pick out. I rarely use the fast set stuff which has lower temp tolerance. I have never heard of any locktite still locking inside Norton gearboxes or engines bearing bores. For on the road repairs like holded gas, oil or trannys pans better to carry the Iron Putty type epoxy sticks as don't flow out and sets up fast to get on with the show permanently. I'd love to try to reconstruct MaRae's blown up Maney cases with JBW as the fractures would lock up shear forces and cases don't get but maybe boiling hot so JBW would stay stiff with bolt clamp force helping.

https://www.google.com/search?q=uses+of ... qDkYDpLnIU

Gas line rub leak on wifes 1999 Volvo S80. Deep in the underneath bowels. I think the motor needed to be pulled to replace this section. So far so good

There was an interesting article in the July Roadholder about a JB Weld repair of a lower MagDyno mount on a late 40s Norton single. That's the NOC's club magazine.

See my thread earlier this year 'gearbox rebuild'. Did use a few tig stitch welds though..

17 years ago my bike fell over in the garage due to the side stand giving way.

The crash broke off a good sized piece of cylinder cooling fin.

Disaster

Until I thought, why not try it.

So I cleaned up the fin pieces good, mixed up some JB Weld and glued the fin back on.

It has stayed in place, perfectly, ever since.

Damn good stuff.

I repaired a dent in a headlight shell that could just as easily have been repaired with Bondo if conventional paint was to be used. In this case,the headlight shell was to be powder coated. Powder coat doesn't stick to bondo according to the Powder Coating company. It relies on electrical charge, so Bondo is out. The JB weld is full of ground up metal and worked perfectly, the powder coating went on evenly and the repair is invisible. This was eleven years ago, still looks the same.

Glen

Used it on the intake port floors of an XS650 to re-direct the intake flow. 'Good for another 4 mph on the top end!

As for fears of its bridge-building abilities, use it with fiberglass cloth in place of the usual resin. It can be used to permanently fill some nasty wide rust holes, and seems to be at least as strong as the surrounding sheet metal.

Nathan

I'm considering JBW D shape exhaust ports to see what that does and if it stays there intakes next. JBW is not that great an adhesive but if surface roughed up or little holes or cross hatched or pegs/weld globs added it make tear the base metal off before it lets go of itself.

When I mix up small batches under teaspoon I put a supermagnet under the plastic container and it all piles up in a hump instead of spreading out loosing half of it. I've glued braces on Peel with it from the under side and magnets held it against drooling out by gravity and pulled it into the seam I wanted nailed down. Just tested by accident drilling frame with my wt on drill only afterward noticed frame was leaned on one of the thin braces but didn't pop off so more than tough enough in that location under pure pull apart load. If JBW on cycle mask off and put catch cloth under.

I used JBW to scab together a vapor tank/carb/fittings for a 97cc mini bike so could just stick in the steel tube at good angle and dob on half set up JBW and continue dobbing with wet finger to smooth over to set up with a neat robust surround that strong than the alloy Boy Scout canteen and the dang thing worked for extra power to haul my ass through grass and up steeps it bogged down prior.

I have used it to repair a leaking seam on an alloy fuel tank.....worked great.

phillyskip said:

I have used it to repair a leaking seam on an alloy fuel tank.....worked great.

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did that last weekend on my old hirider tank, which I use when I am doing repair stuff since it is a bit rougher than my nicely painted interstate tank.

Oh, also used it to repair the grinder shaft on my pepper mill.

I used it to fix holes in an old Chevy gas tank. It lasted 10 years that I know of. I drilled out the rusty pin holes and squeezed in enough to make a mushroom shape on the inside.

I use it to fill in small body holes that later get painted.

I use it as body filler on steel and fiber glass.

My best one was fitting a loose valve guide on a lawn mower. Everyone said they hoped it was the intake guide but it was the exhaust guide. I put the loose guide in place with JB Weld and put the valve together around it to line it up with the seat. I never took it apart after that, just ran it. You could smell the JB cooking off but it never broke.

I also like gluing the threads back on light bulbs so they don't twist the wires off. One heat lamp lasted for years like that and the JB Weld became like ceramic.

fixing magnets into drain plugs is a great use of JB but the steel filings try to climb up on top of the magnet to you have to use tape to hold it down while it sets up.

And, using masking tape as a mold material you can rebuild the plastic casing on drills and other small tools. My favorite was the chassis of a soldering iron that had smashed to bits in a fall.

Proud to say the stuff is made in East Texas and like it used to say on the label, Farmer Jones says that he thinks it is better than baling wire!!

I used it, per Gordon Jennings' recommendations in Cycle Magazine way back when to raise the intake port on my Yamaha SR500. I dunno, maybe 30 years later, it still holds tight to the intake port floor with help from the thicket of small aluminum machine screws that it is embedded in. They stick up into the port from the underside and through holes drilled and tapped from the underside.

xbacksideslider said:

I used it, per Gordon Jennings' recommendations in Cycle Magazine way back when to raise the intake port on my Yamaha SR500. I dunno, maybe 30 years later, it still holds tight to the intake port floor with help from the thicket of small aluminum machine screws that it is embedded in. They stick up into the port from the underside and through holes drilled and tapped from the underside.

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Yeah I did that once on my Norton racebike -intake and exhaust. The Jb weld in the exhaust was gone the first weekend.

I only had three screws into the floor of the intake port and it lasted most of one season before a big enough piece broke off to keep the intake valve open enough to get hit by the exhaust valve and end my race day.

I have used it in the intake on cast iron car heads and had it last for years. Jim

It can take days to weeks to fully set up, until then heat can soften it to flex and let pieces sag or apart or becomes to ceramic like rigid in thermally expansive applications. No good to remake threads with it as fails to adhere or very brittle in thin layer but by golly if ya roughly clean out the hole and JBW fill then just drill-tap new threads and use some wits on thermal and torque applied.
Its good ya can't get hi sniffing it either. I never did that but had some mean attacks by hoodlilums doing it before hoodies style. My thing with buddies was getting mimeograph duty in closed closets till sick of it. On that note of organic solvents.

Not much does thank goodness and brake fluid or acetone don't bother full set JBW. Methylene Chloride or Formic Acid will but nasty dangerous. Methylene Cl is what dissolves powder coat to bubble and wipe off. Torching it off works mostly.

Roger, My wife works in a bakery. She uses a little cart to roll 5 gallon buckets of icing around. One of the wheels on the cart broke off, and we repaired it with J B Weld. Worked fine until the wheel got sticky one day and wouldn't roll. My wife sprayed it with "White Cap All Purpose Baking Release", a food grade product similar to PAM, hoping it would provide some lubrication. She watched in amazment as this food grade product dissolved the J B Weld back to a liquid state and obviously the wheel fell off. You might see if you can locate some, again it's WHITE CAP ALL PURPOSE BAKING RELEASE...made by VENTURA FOODS LLC. Main ingredients are Soy Bean Oil, and Canola oil.

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