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Ben's '72 Interstate Rebuild

Discussion in 'Norton Motorcycle Rebuilds' started by Scout63, Dec 3, 2016.

  1. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Gearboxes occasionally have that additional letter stamp, not necessarily 'G'. They were factory codes, the meanings of which were generally unknown outside the factory, so can be ignored.

    I have seen 'factory' pictures showing those engine number stickers on the top of the timing cover, usually placed over the crankcase joint.
    It seems they were removed at some point before the bike was sold.
    I have no idea how it ended up on the cradle.
     
  2. Scout63

    Scout63 VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2016
    It didn't appear glued on. Maybe it just ended up there and didn't fly off. There was a fair amount of oil and grease on the tube.
     
  3. Scout63

    Scout63 VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2016
    I finally found a few extra minutes to work on the bike. I removed the tires - Avon GP front and Dunlop Roadmaster TT100 rear. They couldn't be original since the bike has 12k miles and they had good tread. I did get the license plate and current title for the bike though - 1975 title and last stickered in 1980. I really like the plate but it won't work in MA.
    [​IMG]
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  4. Tin Man

    Tin Man

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2016

    I like the blue.
     
  5. Scout63

    Scout63 VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2016
    Thanks TinMan. I'm keeping the color the same.
     
  6. Scout63

    Scout63 VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2016
    Hello everyone. I’m finally starting up my restoration after putting the disassembled bike to the side for a couple of years.

    I’ve painted most of the steel parts. I had the frame media blasted and then professionally painted, which turned out to be a mistake. The body shop did such a horrible job (missed spots, bumps etc) that I sanded it smooth and spray canned it myself. I didn’t have the heart to go back. I should have known when he charged me about half of what it should have cost. He had a great reputation but just sold his shop and was halfway out the door. [​IMG]
    I used two cans of paint with many light coats. The finish looks good and we’ll see if it holds up.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Both hubs are cleaned up with new sealed bearings installed:
    [​IMG]

    Thanks to Fred and Ella at Old Britt’s for parts and patient advice over the phone..

    I’m starting to lace the wheels:
    [​IMG]

    I ordered stainless 19” rims and spokes from Central Wheel and they look great. This is a new task so I expect it to be very trying.

    Also, I’m practicing zinc plating as I want to re-use as much of the hardware as I can. Here s my setup:
    [​IMG]

    I’ve done quite a bit of practice plating and the results are getting better. The learning curve is steep and prep takes more time than I thought it would. I’ll post pics of parts when I get it right.

    Next up fork rebuilding.

    Hopefully I can have a rolling chassis by springtime and be able to rebuild the engine and transmission next winter.

    My best to all.

    Ben Zehnder
     
    gortnipper likes this.
  7. Danno

    Danno

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2010
    The epoxy rattle can paint I have used seems to hold up pretty well. Not as well as sprayed urethane, but better than regular rattle-can enamel. Powder coat is veerrrrryyyy durable, but you have to make sure to do a lot of masking because it's so thick it can crush down and cause fasteners to come loose. Make sure you don't have it slathered on too thickly, especially over another finish, so you don't get the same effect.
     
  8. Danno

    Danno

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2010
    This pic will give you an idea of all the areas that should be masked to prevent damging the paint and having you nuts and bolts come loose.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Whiterabbit

    Whiterabbit

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2019
  10. Pete Komarek

    Pete Komarek

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2018
    Interesting white rabbit. Good write up Scout, hope you get it done for this season. I repalced some bolts, did a lot of degreasing, and cleaned my existing bilts. As I did not paint the frameI was happy with patina. My 75 frame was cosmetically in nice shape, just needing somne touch-up. I used POR 15
     
  11. Scout63

    Scout63 VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2016
    I’m kicking the project back into action. Here are some recent photos:
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    Super blend main bearings are in and end play is good. The head just went to the machine shop for valve seat cutting and cleaning up the surface. New Kibblewhite valves and springs came in today. Plating is going well - a steep learning curve but very satisfying reusing original hardware. These cylinder and head and case bolts and nuts were pretty rusty before zinc plating. Frame is painted. Cylinders within spec and lightly honed and painted. Cam followers installed. Pistons installed. Waiting for ring compressors so that I can install the cylinders.

    I have some noob questions though:

    1. Do I install the cylinder base gasket dry or use a gasket compound.
    2. Do I install oil seals on all valve guides? Mine is a 72 combat head and when I took it apart there were seals only on the inlet guides.
    3. Do I use heat insulating washers only under exhaust spring seats or on the inlet side also. They were only under the exhaust seats when I disassembled it but the parts schematic shows them under all springs.

    Thanks to all. Ben
     
    marinatlas likes this.
  12. L.A.B.

    L.A.B. Moderator VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2004
    Dry, although others might disagree.

    Inlet only. The exhaust guides don't have the seal location groove.
    Exhaust:
    https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/sho...de-dommi-also-in-500-750-std-d12-140-nmt2011-
    Inlet:
    https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/15952/in-valve-guide-750-std-


    They were normally omitted from the Combat inlets so as none were fitted then don't fit any on the inlet side.
     
  13. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Nice clean work, project is moving right along!
     
  14. Richard Tool

    Richard Tool

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2019
    Looking good Ben - I did quite a bit of nickel over copper plating on my ES2 project a few years back . All the naysayers claimed home plating systems were bogus - glad I ignored them. Caswell system worked beautifully for me . I’ll be watching this with interest - RT
     
  15. grandpaul

    grandpaul VIP MEMBER

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Basic science says it's not bogus. A bit of a fiddly mess, but not bogus. The more careful you are, the better the results.
     

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