- Joined
- Aug 14, 2006
- Messages
- 1,451
brittwin said:Good advice, IMHO. The Norvil belts are of the HTD "Gates" type with round teeth - they run very smooth, but must not be used in an oil bath. There is one kit of 30mm belt width available which allows for retaining the electric starter (sprag) mechanism, but I doubt that occasional greasing thereof will suffice to keep it alive in an otherwise dry primary chaincase. If you want to dispose of the e-start, you may go for one of the pre-Mk.III belt kits (also of 30mm belt width). Their 30mm crankshaft pulleys ensure that the alternat0r rotor doesn't unduly protrude outwards - which is the case with the 40mm belt kit, thus necessitating the removal of the ignition timing indicator segment plate (06-4694) from the inner side of the outer chain case. Is is also a good idea to discard the bronze-type clutch friction plates, and to order a set of "surflex" plates to replace them. And, yes, two additional plain steel plates should come in quite handy - one goes to the backplate of the clutch basket, and an additional one might be needed on the outer (spring) side to get the thinner "surflex" plates packed up tightly.
You'll need a sprocket extractor to take off the original crankshaft sprocket, the clutch compressor tool, and the clutch locking tool. You should also be prepared to find the original crankshaft pulley a tight (taper) fit, secured (against rotation) by a woodruff ("half-moon") key. Heating it up will make this job easier.
Before fitting the new alloy pulley, you'll have to clean the crankshaft taper appropriately of old Loctite residues (solvent, emery cloth). You'll also have to heat up the alloy pulley to approx. 150°C before you tap it home onto the crankshaft taper (w/woodruff key in situ and a little Loctite). The same goes for the fitting of the (sealed) clutch bearing - heat the clutch basket before you tap home the (generously greased) bearing.
To measure the distance between crankshaft and gearbox mainshaft (centre to centre) you don't need to take the primary drive apart. Yes, there are plenty of pulley/clutch basket sizes available, since there's only a choice of two belt sizes (990mm and 920mm). The pulley/clutch basket combo you'll get might thus be not the same as that of the original primary transmission ratio, but you may recitify any such matters by selecting a smaller or larger mainshaft (final drive) sprocket.
Since this is a "first" for you, you'll be able to do it over a weekend - a "pro" could do it within 2 hours. All you'll need to have is the workshop manual(s), the apropriate tools (clutch tool and sprocket pullers are a must!), the belt drive kit fitting instructions, and a little patience. Hope this is of help to you.
Many thanks. I read somewhere on this forum about a home made clutch tool in stead of having to buy one. Anyone recall this or how I do it?
Can I use any sprocket type puller or do I have use a specific one?
How do I measure the centre to centre distance between crankshaft and gearbox mainshaft without removing the rpimary cover?
I will probably go with the Barnet easy pull clutch option that CNW sells. I took the tranny inpection cover off and the clutch cable is being pulled at the proper angle and nothing looked funny or off to me. I don't really know much about the mechanics of the Commando yet and this is my first venture into doing something myself on it.