Belt drive alignment

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They shouldn't sell crap like this. It looks like classic reverse engineering based on measuring one mating part. The new plate is so thick that indentation of the drum is much less likely so why have so little clearance? Mine would not even go in until I spent an hour filing it.

Crap and annnoying, sorry for rant
 
FastFred said:
They shouldn't sell crap like this. It looks like classic reverse engineering based on measuring one mating part. The new plate is so thick that indentation of the drum is much less likely so why have so little clearance? Mine would not even go in until I spent an hour filing it.

Crap and annnoying, sorry for rant
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I might add, I took the cut from the outer side and reshaped the contact area. By doing this i was able to save the anodized side to the clutch. FWIW
 
FastFred said:
They shouldn't sell crap like this. It looks like classic reverse engineering based on measuring one mating part. The new plate is so thick that indentation of the drum is much less likely so why have so little clearance? Mine would not even go in until I spent an hour filing it.

Crap and annnoying, sorry for rant
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I'm glad you thought the production tolerances for an English motorcycle part were consistent across all the years of manufacturing. Assuming it's even an original and not a cheap replacement part. :roll:
 
Hmmm, Do I really want a belt drive. Only one I find that keeps my final ratio is the Norvil one, anyone have experience with that one, and do I need the left side adjuster added? I really don't want to change my 19 tooth ratio.

I'm not trying to hijack, just trying to keep in same place, or should I start a new one?

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Hmmm, Do I really want a belt drive. Only one I find that keeps my final ratio is the Norvil one, anyone have experience with that one, and do I need the left side adjuster added? I really don't want to change my 19 tooth ratio.

I'm not trying to hijack, just trying to keep in same place, or should I start a new one?

Dave
69S
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The Norvil drive is what CNW uses. It works well and is probably the easiest installation of any of them. I would either add a left side adjuster or just move the adjuster from the right over to the left. That seems to work as well as double adjusters in my experiance. Jim
 
Hi, I had just fitted a Steve Maney belt drive kit on a friend's Commando , and must say it was very nicely enginered, but the original pressure plate had the same probs as above , so I went in my shed and pick up several pressure plates , some fit some didn't, so to conclude it was more the OEM Norton parts that were not up to the same tolerances each other........previously I had used mainly Norvil and found them nice , but my next one will be a Maney (not a big difference in cost , at least here in france after shipping cost..........IHMO).
 
swooshdave said:
pelican said:
i'd love to fit a maney belt on my mk3, but with the e-start it's a no go. :cry:
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If I did another one that's probably what I would get too.
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Man, I have seen your leg in action. You don't need an e-start. :roll:
 
Pressure plate come in various thicknesses, some just by wear or manufacture slop, others special trimmed to make up clutch stack right height. Maney can make inner cover and adapter so his 40 mm drives fit Lucas alternator and still clear to seal on primary cover.

here's center center chart to expand up to read and shoot for optimum, not accounting for the thermal case/pulley expanding tensioning. Btw google is a rather better search method on forum hits than the forum's.

Belt drive alignment
 
Re:

I'm glad you thought the production tolerances for an English motorcycle part were consistent across all the years of manufacturing. Assuming it's even an original and not a cheap replacement part.
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That would be relevant Swoosh however both the clutch backet and pressure plate are RGM...
 
DogT said:
Hmmm, Do I really want a belt drive. Only one I find that keeps my final ratio is the Norvil one, anyone have experience with that one, and do I need the left side adjuster added? I really don't want to change my 19 tooth ratio.
Click to expand...

I have a Norvil belt drive on my Roadster, but went with a slightly different ratio (after a 20 tooth GB sprocket) to take a few more revs off 60 mph. I like it a lot. Put it on with no more than average care and it has been trouble free for about 15,000 miles. After several years I added a left side adjuster.

Greg
 
Thank Hobot

My belt tension similar. Won't be calling around your house with those gloves mind....!
 
FastFred said:
Thank Hobot

My belt tension similar. Won't be calling around your house with those gloves mind....!
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Not his gloves. :mrgreen:

I think I have loosened up that belt since that video was shot.

You can see at the beginning of this video just how loose the belt is.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQ0duSHKV1o[/video]
 
Yes sir your flapping belt looks about right to me but it will flap similar even if too damn tight so can not judge by that alone, just don't want it to flap so much it abrades on the case or flaps out of teeth, with don't take much tension, which works out to almost 90' twist - short of pinching finger flesh to pain. Nicer to view w/o any cover than with the coin plugs fallen out on the road. You can creep up on tension but not back off of bent shafts and trashed tranny bushes. Same with drive chain so check that with you bouncing full weight on it to make sure it passes through tight arc zone with slack enough not to jerk on main shaft unduly.
 
Looks like mine.....as long as it don't jump drive sprocket teeth when starting cold or under load, you'll be good. Some may not agree with this indicator but too tight is too damn risky, mechanically speaking.
 
hobot said:
Yes sir your flapping belt looks about right to me but it will flap similar even if too damn tight so can not judge by that alone, just don't want it to flap so much it abrades on the case or flaps out of teeth, with don't take much tension, which works out to almost 90' twist - short of pinching finger flesh to pain. Nicer to view w/o any cover than with the coin plugs fallen out on the road. You can creep up on tension but not back off of bent shafts and trashed tranny bushes. Same with drive chain so check that with you bouncing full weight on it to make sure it passes through tight arc zone with slack enough not to jerk on main shaft unduly.
Click to expand...

I've now resolved to never put the plugs in again, if only to cause you more angst. :mrgreen:
 
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