beginner clutch adjustment question

I thought I could figure this one out once I looked at it, but I'm chickening out I don't want to screw up.

75 Commando

The clutch has a little drag (won't go back into neutral with the motor running, still wants to go a little when sitting at a standstill in gear with the clutch in) and the cable is adjusted all the way to the end at the lever. I didn't have the manual with me so, I figured I'd just play with the adjuster in the primary case. I put the cable adjuster half way in so there was plenty of slack in the cable I loosened the clutch adjuster locknut and proceeded to turn the adjuster in with a screwdriver then took the slack out of the cable. Result: the clutch hand lever appears to be locked solid. I didnt try too hard to squeeze it because I don't want to break anything. Now I'm concerned that if I loosen the adjuster screw something might fall apart.

In order to get the clutch adjuster locknut back to its original position do I simply loosen the adjuster out and then cinch down the clutch adjuster locknut? Or do you have to hold the adjuster with a screwdriver and tighten the locknut down untill it is back to its original spot?

I shoulda left it alone :roll:

If you have that much drag, you probably should get to know the ins and outs of the clutch adjust/clean process. The manual lays it out. If adjustment fails (which is very likely), cleaning the clutch plates is next. If you still have a primary chain (instead of a belt), I think you are best off to go with 5 oz. of type F ATF in the primary case.

"Use F type ATF" but this 75 would be a mark three and so this would be bad advice in this case. It's evident that the auto chain tension piston doesn't like ATF... The rest of the advice seems good.

I will look into cleaning the clutch plates as soon as I can get/make a clutch removal tool, but till then... What do I do about my original question? The manual (that I have) doesn't seem so clear.

edit - found my answer elsewhere. Thanks anyway. Looks like it I just need to back the screw out till I feel the right ammount of freeplay on the little lever that the cable goes to and then tighten the nut down while keeping the screw steady. Sound about right?

you need to back off the cable adjuster all the way at the clutch lever than adjust the one in the primary. I would not back it off more than 3/4 turn with used clutch plates. As stated earlier you more than likely have a contaminated clutch pack with gear oil. If the adjustment does not fix this than you WILL have to remove the clutch and clean the plates. when you get in to it I would install a clutch push rod seal and more than likely you will also find a badly notched clutch center hub.

Thank you. I will do that. I just wanted to get it adjusted correctly first. You know try the easy stuff first. It has sat a long time so the plates probably need a cleaning. Before it was put up my Dad cleaned and resurfaced the clutch. But the bike only has 4000 original miles on it, so hopefully everything else is in check.

You could also check that the actuating arm in the gearbox outer cover didn't drop when you slackened off your adjuster and cable.....that might give the "locked solid" feeling at the lever when it's tightened again

I agree with Seely, the lever dropped out due to too much slack.

Open the inspection cap at the tranny and wiggle it back up where it belongs, then adjust it up on the primary side, clutch centre screw.

Will do. Thanks guys!

Seeley920 said:

You could also check that the actuating arm in the gearbox outer cover didn't drop when you slackened off your adjuster and cable.....that might give the "locked solid" feeling at the lever when it's tightened again

Click to expand...

DING DING DING!!!!

Winner!!!!

Nice one, glad to hear it's sorted.....I had to sort exactly the same thing out for a mate on his manx once!! Another one of those little things thats easily overlooked at the time