Battery question

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I need a battery for my bike. I have an electronic ignition and no electric start. I'm missing all of the hold down parts/straps, so whatever I get I'll need to fabricate something to hold it down, so it doesn't have to be original size/shape.

My questions is, can I get any battery I want, with the goal being as small as i can get it? Do I have a minimum spec i need to have?
 
peculierboy said:
I need a battery for my bike. I have an electronic ignition and no electric start. I'm missing all of the hold down parts/straps, so whatever I get I'll need to fabricate something to hold it down, so it doesn't have to be original size/shape.

My questions is, can I get any battery I want, with the goal being as small as i can get it? Do I have a minimum spec i need to have?

Small sealed lead acid is fine. The old charging system usually puts out 13.8v to 14.2v, which is perfect for lead acid.

Cheers
 
I replaced the battery in my HD. It was still good and is now alive in the Norton. I can kick the Norton but not the HD.
A battery really doesnt care what it is in.
 
peculierboy said:
...My questions is, can I get any battery I want, with the goal being as small as i can get it?...

Yes.
It is only needed for starting (once started the alternator provides the juice) and to sustain the headlight intensity at idle. Mine is the smallest (also cheapest) the battery shop had - has worked fine for a few years now.
Ta.
 
peculierboy said:
...My questions is, can I get any battery I want, with the goal being as small as i can get it?...

Well no.

You neither want to go too small nor too big.

You want a battery that relatively matches the output of your stator.
So, a 130watt stator / 12volts = 10.83AH

The Yuasa 12N9-4B (9ah) is what it calls for with the 130w stator. That is as small as you dare to go.

Many go with the 12ah YB14L-A2. With this one you do not need to go any bigger.

If you shop around, the Yuasa 12N9-4B can be had for about $30, maybe a bit more.
 
I got an AGM Yuasa from Clubman, a little pricy and maybe you can find a better deal, but it's still holding 12.7VDC with minimal usage and using a battery tender on it monthly since 2008 or so. A lot of what you need for a battery is how much you actually use the battery for other than starting. All you need to start is a small 2AH gel cell, but don't expect it to hold up at night.

I lost all my straps and holders too, I just used a couple long pieces of double velcro. Many options there.
 
Hi pete v.
AmpHours are not Amps.
Once the bike is started there is minimal constant current draw except for ignition and lighting and is supplied by the charging system. Electric starts only need the highstorage capacity battery for the huge starter current draw when the button is pushed.
Lighting current draw can be further reduced by using LED instead.
Ta.
 
needing said:
Hi pete v.
AmpHours are not Amps.
Ta.

Ya sure, but I am sure you get the jist. The point is to have a balanced system. If you increase the load you should increase the capacity of the "system". I doubt you would ever use a less than 130watt stator, so why would you need, want or use less of a battery than what is called for.

What battery do you use?
Duh
 
Hi pete v.
1. You are wrong re battery "balancing" theory loosely based on Ohms Law but AmpHours just ain't Amps. Please review your assertion at http://www.electro-tech-online.com/arti ... llacy.222/
2. Exide YTX4L-BS 3Ah. Length 113mm, Width 70mm, Height 85mm.
Previous Yuasa NP2.12.
Ta.

Ps: my bike also starts and runs with just a Panasonic capacitor ECOS1JP472CA i.e. NO "unbalanced/balanced" battery at all since it is kickstart (just like the original posters).
 
There was merit in having a suitably big battery in the old 6V alternator system.

12 Nortons have voltage regulated charging systems, so they won't normally overcharge or boil a smaller 12V battery.

You probably want a battery big enough to power the headlight for a few minutes.

With electronic ignition, you may want more in reserve, so don't go too small on battery amp hour.
 
needing said:
Hi pete v.
1. You are wrong re battery "balancing" theory loosely based on Ohms Law but AmpHours just ain't Amps. Please review your assertion at http://www.electro-tech-online.com/arti ... llacy.222/
2. Exide YTX4L-BS 3Ah. Length 113mm, Width 70mm, Height 85mm.
Previous Yuasa NP2.12.
Ta.

Ps: my bike also starts and runs with just a Panasonic capacitor ECOS1JP472CA i.e. NO "unbalanced/balanced" battery at all since it is kickstart (just like the original posters).


So what I am given to understand is that are telling us to all run the same battery as you run in your 50cc moped? And for that matter, it should be just fine for the Electra Glide and the like? Huh....is that what you are saying? Yes or No!

FWIW, when I speak of balance, what i mean is a balanced system,not battery, as in the stator, regulator, and battery all being of like capacities.
Duh.
 
Re wanting a small battery, no electric start:

I've got the middle sized Shorai that Matt @ CNW sells on my 74 Commando. It is unbelievably light. I has been fine so far, but, I have the high output alternator fitted, and its only been on a year. So I can't claim to give a long term report.

On another old bike, with a less able charging system, I fitted an Odessey. I think it is a 7ah and is quite small, but not as light as the Shorai. But, its 7-8 years old, has been stood for LONG periods several times, has NEVER been on a charger, and was even on the bike when it caught fire, and is still going strong!

So for small size, maintenance free reliability and longevity, the Odessey takes first prize.

For light weight, Shorai is king!

All only IMHO of course.
 
Ludwig that Ballistic looks the same as the battery I just dropped off at the recycle depot along with it's big brother 12 cell Ballistic.
The little 4 cell is listed as 2.3 amp hour and .979 pounds.
The 2.3 amphour rating is based on starting with a fully charged battery at 14.2 volts then pulling it down to 12.8v Somewhere just below 12.8 it flames out completely for self preservation.
If your charging system keeps things at 14.2 volts, you get the full 2.3 amphours, which isn't much.
If your charging system is like mine, it might keep the Li battery around 13 to 13.2volts, which leaves you maybe 1/2 or 1 amphour storage.
It can and does still work ,obviously, but you are smart to go another route on a long trip. My little 4 cell imploded on a long trip and took out both the voltage reg and the Alton. I limped home with a lawntractor battery squished into the top box and spliced in via lighting wiring.
Once home I relpaced the entire charging system,new Alton, PODtronics reg and battery, only AGM this time around!


I like the Panasonic, it looks the same as the battery in my shop Alarm system. As you say, they last a long, long time.

Glen
 
This is their smallest lightest battery now - maybe they have added some lead plates :D
Note that fully charged voltage is 13.6, down from the old 14.2 volt rating. Maybe things are changing to make it a better fit with 12 volt systems?

Battery question
 
Hi pete v.
Re: "...You want a battery that relatively matches the output of your stator.So, a 130watt stator / 12volts = 10.83AH..."
This is nonsense.
Choose your battery your way but don't discuss it out loud.
Ta.
 
needing said:
Hi pete v.
Re: "...You want a battery that relatively matches the output of your stator.So, a 130watt stator / 12volts = 10.83AH..."
This is nonsense.
Choose your battery your way but don't discuss it out loud.
Ta.
My sentiments exactly! Your thinking seems to be "anything goes" or "smaller is better". That is nonsense.
Duh.
 
I propose a Needling - Pete.V forum where they can duke it out over PERSONAL OPINIONS.

So Glad (Cream classic) there is real info on this forum from other members. :mrgreen:
 
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