Battery question

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sorry fellas.
I thought I was explaining basic electricals i.e. the correct application of Ohms Law.
The original chap asked for battery info and I and others supplied options and rationale for same.
End of thread for me.
Ta.
 
needing said:
Sorry fellas.
I thought I was explaining basic electricals i.e. the correct application of Ohms Law.
The original chap asked for battery info and I and others supplied options and rationale for same.
End of thread for me.
Ta.

Bull shit.

I will say it one more time, 12N9-4B-1, is the smallest battery "recommended" for the Norton Commando.
What's to argue? All else is hypothetical.

However, I run a mag so a battery is truly optional for me. I still run the Shorai LFX14L5-BS12 or an AGM XTA14AH-BS cause I like to run lights all the time as bright as I can. It is just not rational to go smaller, in terms of AH, than what is suggested. I think bigger is better if the stator and regulator match. I recall the old guys say to put the biggest battery that will fit in there.

So, lets continue this. We are certainly not off topic. Blown out of proportion maybe but that's normal.
duh.
 
PV.

Small batteries are very rational. They're cheap, lightweight and fit into smaller spaces.

If you're happier with a bigger battery, for reserve headlight capacity, we're delighted.

But your equations about stator amps and battery amp hours are comically wrong.
 
Here it comes up much nonsense
The questioner asked about a battery to a commando with E.start.
Then it is important to have a battery that can deliver enough power as quickly as possible.
Then you must have a battery with some amp / hours, minimum 14a / h
Vidar
 
He does not have an electric start.

peculierboy said:
I need a battery for my bike. I have an electronic ignition and no electric start.


He wants a small battery, for God's sake!

My questions is, can I get any battery I want, with the goal being as small as i can get it? Do I have a minimum spec i need to have?
 
vidar hjelm johansen said:
Here it comes up much nonsense
The questioner asked about a battery to a commando with E.start...Vidar

Oops, can't let this furphy through.
The original poster actually stated "...I need a battery for my bike. I have an electronic ignition and no electric start...".
Now I bow out... again.
Ta.
 
Triton Thrasher said:
PV.

Small batteries are very rational. They're cheap, lightweight and fit into smaller spaces.

If you're happier with a bigger battery, for reserve headlight capacity, we're delighted.

But your equations about stator amps and battery amp hours are comically wrong.

Yes, I realize my equation was mislabled, should have been I(A) = P(W) / V(V). But my point was to say that the load should neither be too high nor too low in relation to the output of the system. This, of course, is relative and
I am sure all manufactures have calculated this and come up with the proper system to match the real or potential load, hense the manufacturers suggested battery.

However
I will assume that the author is experienced enough in British bikes, as stated, and can determine his own personal preference to calculate what battery/stator/regulator he may want to satisfy his needs/load and to keep him safely on the road and back home on a consistant and reliable basis.
 
Question, if you fit a v. small battery, or NO battery, like a capacitor, how do you power the horn :?:
Do we go back to those rubber bulb horns :?: :shock: :(
 
Bernhard said:
Question, if you fit a v. small battery, or NO battery, like a capacitor, how do you power the horn :?:
Do we go back to those rubber bulb horns :?: :shock: :(

Your bike is powered by the alternator when running and so the horn will work (the capacitor simply stores enough power from the alternator to start the bike).
A battery is a power storage unit (similar to a capacitor but with greater capacity) and allows you to beep your horn without the engine running (should you feel the need - remembering that it is a 'warning' device).
Electric-starts need a 'big' battery i.e. large AmpHours to power the starter to turn the motor quickly enough to create adequate fuel sucking vacuum across the carbys and still have some power left over for the ignition/spark system.
Ta.
 
Looking at the amperage draw from most horns, I suspect that without a battery the horn button would act like a kill switch if operated at idle. Also, at idle, not all charging systems are sufficient on their own to operate all ignitions. It's a bit iffy, some combos will and some won't.

Glen
 
An electric start means battery mass is not a factor but storage size is and bigger than stock is better choice for a number of reasons. If battery too low , old or not installed even brake light can leave ya in silent rolling darkness. I use horns pretty often as defense for various animals but can't hardly think of a time in city I've hit horn. I can't remember hearing someone else's cycle horn used as warning but could happen.
 
hobot said:
An electric start means battery mass is not a factor but storage size is and bigger than stock is better choice for a number of reasons. If battery too low , old or not installed even brake light can leave ya in silent rolling darkness. I use horns pretty often as defense for various animals but can't hardly think of a time in city I've hit horn. I can't remember hearing someone else's cycle horn used as warning but could happen.

Because you have your lid on and probably listening to your favourite tune through your personnel stereo :!: :D :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top