battery losing charge

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After short rides the battery starts losing power . It also loses power when sitting and needs to be recharged before starting . I've replaced the rotor , got a new battery and have a new rectifier ready to install but feel I might be missing something else . The bike was converted to Boyer about 5,000 moles ago and has original wiring . No problems until last summer when this started. Maybe I should be replacing the whole damn works but with what ?
I've also gone over all connections and everything seems OK . Any suggestions or ideas will be greatly appreciated .

Cheers,
Steve
 
The stator may be suspect--I'd check that voltage to the battery is in the range of 13-14.5 V with the engine running.

That being said, I had those very symptoms when the battery-charging lead on the rectifier came adrift--it may be that the rectifier has died (a very rare event unless physically mishandled or hooked up backwards) or that one rectifier lead is not making contact.


Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Three Commandos
 
kraakevik said:
The stator may be suspect--I'd check that voltage to the battery is in the range of 13-14.5 V with the engine running.

That being said, I had those very symptoms when the battery-charging lead on the rectifier came adrift--it may be that the rectifier has died (a very rare event unless physically mishandled or hooked up backwards) or that one rectifier lead is not making contact.


Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Three Commandos


Thanks Tim, I'll check the voltage range when running . The rectifier leads have been checked and OkK. Maybe the stator ? I guess by the process of reduction I'll get to the bottom of it. Cheers.
 
If your battery loses charge while standing, then the power is draining to somewhere where it shouldn't. While switched off, too.

You should be able to do some measuring with a multimeter, or ammeter, to see which wires are not open circuit (go no-where). Power could be draining through your rectifier when it shouldn't, or through your main switch when it shouldn't.

This can be as simple too as a wire somewhere that has chafed or been crushed and now has metal contact. Any dull glows in any light bulbs when off ?
What about your Zenor diode, they can go funny ? Although not usually part funny...

Good luck, can sometimes be hard to track these faults down.
 
The 2MC capacitor could also be the cause of the problem?

Try disconnecting the Red earth/ground wire from the 2MC and see if that cures the problem?
 
stevelindsay said:
I've replaced the rotor Cheers,Steve

I am curious as to the reason of the rotor replacement. It is the stator that usually goes in that particular area. Did it fail the screw driver test?
 
I'm with L.A.B on this one, I had the exact same symptoms. I looked at the circuit diagram and worked out that it had to be something connected before the ignition switch and hey presto - the 2MC capacitor. Easy fix as well, as I junked it. It had caused two breakdowns in 15 years and that was two to many by this item. With a brand name modern lead acid battery used regularly the need for the capacitor is highly unlikely. Also, if you dismantle one you'll find it is fitted upside down - the plate and paper wrap is in the bottom, and there is a drain hole in the end under the plastic plate on which the connections are fitted and this is only crimped to the can, maybe why they had reputation for being useless.
 
Just had same issue it costs me 3 batteries : When used regularely no issue but in winter I found a dead battery O Volt , not possible to save.
After 2 years I checked the amps when ignition off : 15 mAmp : near nothing but enough to drain the battery if not used for 3O days .
I tried to disconnect the Zener and Bingo the 2MC . It was the original one so it has been paid off.
 
Rohan said:
If your battery loses charge while standing, then the power is draining to somewhere where it shouldn't. While switched off, too.

You should be able to do some measuring with a multimeter, or ammeter, to see which wires are not open circuit (go no-where). Power could be draining through your rectifier when it shouldn't, or through your main switch when it shouldn't.

This can be as simple too as a wire somewhere that has chafed or been crushed and now has metal contact. Any dull glows in any light bulbs when off ?
What about your Zenor diode, they can go funny ? Although not usually part funny...

Good luck, can sometimes be hard to track these faults down.


I've got to get the gear to check amps , just been guessing so thanks for the suggestion. I'll let you know how it goes . Zenor diode Ok , at least connections Ok .
 
L.A.B. said:
The 2MC capacitor could also be the cause of the problem?

Try disconnecting the Red earth/ground wire from the 2MC and see if that cures the problem?




I'll give this a try.......................Appreciate the feedback and will keep posting.
 
pvisseriii said:
stevelindsay said:
I've replaced the rotor Cheers,Steve

I am curious as to the reason of the rotor replacement. It is the stator that usually goes in that particular area. Did it fail the screw driver test?

Don't know about the screwdriver test ? Once again by guess . I might have been better off replacing the whole enchilada . My skills are limited and sure know why this websites here . Thanks .
 
stevelindsay said:
pvisseriii said:
stevelindsay said:
I've replaced the rotor Cheers,Steve

I am curious as to the reason of the rotor replacement. It is the stator that usually goes in that particular area. Did it fail the screw driver test?

Don't know about the screwdriver test ? Once again by guess . I might have been better off replacing the whole enchilada . My skills are limited and sure know why this websites here . Thanks .
The screwdriver test is a rough test to see if the rotor has enough magnetism to be suspended from the tip of a screwdriver. Not real scientific but is an indicator of condition. They do go bad, but not often. 10 or so to 1 compared to a stator.
 
Thats 3 votes so far for the 2MC - the blue thingy.

When I wrote a reply, I'd never heard of a problem with one - but now reading the replies I'd sure go to that thing first. You don't even need to replace it, just disconnect it out of circuit, as already mentioned.

I think the test for one is to charge it up, and it should still have a certain voltage a while later. If yours is the culprit, sounds like it is leaky even while in use - not good....
 
Seems the 2 mc capacitor was the problem . Charged the battery full on its own , disconnected the red from the blue springy thang and re-hooked up to the full charge. Overnight only a slight recharge (approx. 15 minutes) before full. Before it would recharge for a couple of hours and the temp goes down to about 0 here at night . I'm pretty convinced so far although will keep testing for a while. Thanks guys for all the feedback and to Jim from Van. Island for the email . See you on the road..............Steve
 
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