Battery Cut Off Switch?

speirmoor

speirmoor

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Sick of dead batteries I'm installing one of these.

Battery Cut Off Switch?

As regards wiring it in, It appears there are only 2 connections on the battery+ post and I'm sure one is directly for the starter.
The starter wire can stay and the other will go through this switch. Well that's my plan any way, what do you think ?
 
How long does it take for your battery to go dead? If it is over the course of a few days, I would be looking for the source of the draw. If it is over the course of a few months, I would invest in a battery maintainer.

My $0.02...
 
I thought Speirmoor said in the past , there was no electric outlets in his garage .
 
Well its a case of there's 10 bikes in rotation and sometimes I forget to plug the Norton in in advance of a ride. The battery can hold up for about 10 days but after that the draw kills it. If its only the clock that needs resetting every time I can live with that
 
Hey Tony, can you remind me how I check the parasitic draw on the clocks again. Have a multimeter and am dangerous with it, but would like to check out of interest. As you know I went lithium with bike on tender. She starts first time now.

Thanks

Steve
 
You take off your seat and open up the fuse box. Look for the optimate/clocks 10A fuse and remove it. Then put your ammeter leads , black lead on one fuse connection and the red lead on the other . Be sure the meter is set for milliamps or ma and the leads are in the correct jacks on the meter. It should be the one marked N (brown) and P (purple) on the schematic . The newer bike may call it Br (brown) and V (violet) . Do not have the battery charger plugged in when you do the test.

Battery Cut Off Switch?
 
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speirmoor said:
Well its a case of there's 10 bikes in rotation and sometimes I forget to plug the Norton in in advance of a ride. The battery can hold up for about 10 days but after that the draw kills it. If its only the clock that needs resetting every time I can live with that
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Holy Crap ! 10 bikes all yours I suppose . :)
 
TonyA said:
You take off your seat and open up the fuse box. Look for the optimate/clocks 10A fuse and remove it. Then put your ammeter leads , black lead on one fuse connection and the red lead on the other . Be sure the meter is set for milliamps or ma and the leads are in the correct jacks on the meter. It should be the one marked N (brown) and P (purple) on the schematic . The newer bike may call it Br (brown) and V (violet) . Do not have the battery charger plugged in when you do the test.

Battery Cut Off Switch?
Click to expand...
Thanks Tony, as ever. I’ll check it shortly.

Appreciate your help.

Steve
 
speirmoor said:
Yes all mine. You can’t play golf with one club ?
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Love it, you are either single or have a very understanding partner:D! I make the same reasoned argument with my wife who is often heard to say “why do you need three bikes when you only have one ass”?

I usually point at the DRZ and state dirt/adv, the 990 as adv/road and the Norton as road. Three is the absolute minimum I tell her! At which point she usually rolls her eyes and walks off! I’d have no chance using your golf club analogy - there are’nt enough bike categories!
 
speirmoor said:
Sick of dead batteries I'm installing one of these.

View attachment 18680

As regards wiring it in, It appears there are only 2 connections on the battery+ post and I'm sure one is directly for the starter.
The starter wire can stay and the other will go through this switch. Well that's my plan any way, what do you think ?
Click to expand...

This should work . Have you thought about just extending the main 30A fuse wiring and not bother with this extra switch and hardware ? What I mean is just relocate the Main 30A fuse to a spot you can easily reach and pull out the fuse to isolate the battery from the draw ? You can take this opportunity to replace Main 30A fuse socket with something more robust and waterproof . I would relocate the fuse socket to somewhere by the frame rail /air box/ throttle body , about 12 inches away from where it is now.
 
Or fit a relay.

Battery going dead.

I have a few bikes to choose from when I want to ride and as I only have one arse, by the time I get round to riding some of them the batteries can be very low, I have Podtronic type regs on most of them and they are wired straight to the battery. There is a small current flowing through the...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
TonyA said:
This should work . Have you thought about just extending the main 30A fuse wiring and not bother with this extra switch and hardware ? What I mean is just relocate the Main 30A fuse to a spot you can easily reach and pull out the fuse to isolate the battery from the draw ? You can take this opportunity to replace Main 30A fuse socket with something more robust and waterproof . I would relocate the fuse socket to somewhere by the frame rail /air box/ throttle body , about 12 inches away from where it is now.
Click to expand...
 
I might do that as
1) Now that I have the switch in my hand it’s not as robust as I’d like it to be. With vibration or bumps on the road I could see this “key” popping off
2) There’s nowhere to hide it on the Dominator. I was scratching my head where to install it. For a second I had in in one of the holes (chromed trim) under the seat but it looked unsightly and I shelved that idea.
3) I believe I can get to that 30A fuse with a little bit of finagling and not did another thing. Need to look in to it more. Definitely a great idea
 
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