Issue 850 MKII with motor cut-off after 3 km driving

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SteveBorland said:
Many years ago when I was a trainee engineer at a car manufacturer, we did a test and ran a set of plugs for something like 300 000 km or more, just cleaning the plugs and filing the center electrode square again. We had to stop when we could not reach the electrode anymore, but the engine ran perfectly.

I wish there were a 'Like' button for things like this, thanks for sharing!
 
Although not directly related to this original post I thought I might add this...
On my Norton 500 single 11.3:1 CR ( originally model 50 but now with BMW R80 barrel & piston...)
It used to kill plugs frequently (every month) for some reason (NGK B8SE) to the point I always kept a spare with me - they looked good but wouldn't spark.
I contacted NGK and sent them a "failed" plug but never heard from them again.
I changed to NGK Iridium B8EIS and have not had a failure since (4 years) - go figure!
Cheers
Rob
 
gripper said:
Is it soot or burnt oil?

I guess soot. Plugs are not covered with oily film. Also no blue dust from exhaust. A body was checking by driving behind me.
 
Lorenz said:
triumph2 said:
Suggested starting point for a 32mm Mikuni is:
25-30 pilot jet
3.5 slide
159 type needle jet size P-2, P-4
6DH2 needle
230 main jet

Thank you for suggestion.
It's a 34mm Mikuni
Measured yesterday evening diameter of motor side. I was all the time assuming it is 36mm but it is 34.
In your iriginal post you stated VM32 carb. For a 34mm it should be:
30-35 pilot
3.0 slide
P4-P6 needle jet
6DH3,4 needle
260 MAIN
 
Lorenz said:
triumph2 said:
Suggested starting point for a 32mm Mikuni is:
25-30 pilot jet
3.5 slide
159 type needle jet size P-2, P-4
6DH2 needle
230 main jet

Thank you for suggestion.
It's a 34mm Mikuni
Measured yesterday evening diameter of motor side. I was all the time assuming it is 36mm but it is 34.
In your iriginal post you stated VM32 carb. For a 34mm it should be:
30-35 pilot
3.0 slide
P4-P6 needle jet
6DH3,4 needle
260 MAIN
 
I think you may have two things happening or may be not. First off I think it's smart to do just one thing at a time. Open the fuel tap(s) and wait a bit. Take the bowl plug out. The bowl will drain quickly and then slow down but the flow should not diminish to just a trickle or drips. If it does this would tell you the flow is restricted either by an inline filter or the fuel tap screen (I am not sure if a Mikuni has it's own screen as an Amal does). This would mean you are simply running the engine out of gas. The time it takes to coast to the side and re-start allows some fuel back in and the choke (enrichener) picks it up from the bottom of the bowl so the engine starts and runs for a short while again. Repeating this a number of times means the engine is spending a lot of time "on the choke" and this could be the sole cause of the dark plugs. I would not go into the carburetor in an attempt to get the plugs looking "right" until the engine can be dependably run. Think about this: If richness and plug fouling was the cause of the engine quitting, it would not re-start with more choke.
 
It sounds to me as though the fuel tank is not venting quickly enough and the resulting low pressure in the tank is impeding the flow of the gas to the carburator. I think the vent is part of the filler cap. I remember having a similar issue with my old BSA A7.
 
Fully agreing with Biscuit in saying that you should first check that fuel is correctly flowing from tank to carbs.

If not :
- No air entering the tank (reason why some of us advise you to do a test with your fuel tap open), creating a sort of air lock.
- Obstruction of the flow between tank and carbs: check (and clean if needed) every component (including the filter at the bottom of the carbs, and the jets).

or a combination of those both reasons.

The reason why your sparkplugs look too rich may come from that you have to use and re-use the enricher.

L.
 
laurentdom said:
If not :

- No air entering the tank (reason why some of us advise you to do a test with your fuel tap open), creating a sort of air lock.

.

True enough, if the carb drain fuel flow test does show a marked slow-down in flow, and opening the fill restores good flow, you will have your answer.
 
Biscuit said:
I think you may have two things happening or may be not. First off I think it's smart to do just one thing at a time. Open the fuel tap(s) and wait a bit. Take the bowl plug out. The bowl will drain quickly and then slow down but the flow should not diminish to just a trickle or drips. If it does this would tell you the flow is restricted either by an inline filter or the fuel tap screen (I am not sure if a Mikuni has it's own screen as an Amal does). This would mean you are simply running the engine out of gas. The time it takes to coast to the side and re-start allows some fuel back in and the choke (enrichener) picks it up from the bottom of the bowl so the engine starts and runs for a short while again. Repeating this a number of times means the engine is spending a lot of time "on the choke" and this could be the sole cause of the dark plugs. I would not go into the carburetor in an attempt to get the plugs looking "right" until the engine can be dependably run. Think about this: If richness and plug fouling was the cause of the engine quitting, it would not re-start with more choke.
+1
 
triumph2 said:
Lorenz said:
triumph2 said:
It's a 34mm Mikuni
Measured yesterday evening diameter of motor side. I was all the time assuming it is 36mm but it is 34.
In your iriginal post you stated VM32 carb. For a 34mm it should be:
30-35 pilot
3.0 slide
P4-P6 needle jet
6DH3,4 needle
260 MAIN
Yes very sorry. Was a mistake. I measured the carb. It is 34 mm
Yesterday I check every needle and jet by a watchmaker glass:
35 pilot
6DH3 Needle
P5 Needle Jet
3 Slide
2 Air Jet
290 MAIN

Could be the size 2 air jet and Main 290 reason for the soot at the spark? :?
Ah by the way: What influence have the clip at the needle :?:
It was at position 3 from top.

And also I checked yesterday the aeration / vent hole of fuel cap .
Roughly 1 mm max 1.5mm.
I will drill a bigger vent hole into the fuel cap, something like 2 mm
Today I will reassemble everything. Weather in Germany is a disaster and it's dark outside when I'm ready with work.
So hopefully on weekend I can check.
 
Lorenz said:
Weather in Germany is a disaster and it's dark outside when I'm ready with work.
Oh how I know that feeling! It's not been great here in the UK either, you have my sympathy ...
 
Lorenz said:
Could be the size 2 air jet and Main 290 reason for the soot at the spark? :?
Ah by the way: What influence have the clip at the needle :?:
It was at position 3 from top.

I can't answer those questions, especially as I am not familiar with Mikuni carbs.

But I will say this: always keep in mind that an engine NEVER requires a rich mixture in the combustion chamber, no matter how cold it is.
The choke/enrichener is used to compensate for condensational losses in the manifold and port when the engine is cold, so that the mixture is correct by the time it reaches the chamber.

By using the enrichener to re-start your engine when hot, you will be ensuring that the spark plugs will be sooty.
 
MFB said:
But I will say this: always keep in mind that an engine NEVER requires a rich mixture in the combustion chamber, no matter how cold it is.
The choke/enrichener is used to compensate for condensational losses in the manifold and port when the engine is cold, so that the mixture is correct by the time it reaches the chamber.

By using the enrichener to re-start your engine when hot, you will be ensuring that the spark plugs will be sooty.

Wow! Absolutely true. Without getting into specific A/F ratios for various conditions, let's just say the "rich" mixture required for a cold start is really the CORRECT mixture for that cold start. Not too rich, not too lean Goldilocks.
 
Hi All.
First off all thank you for the input I got from you.
On Saturday I have done several tests.
Outcome
The gas flow out of the tank had an issue.
If I come under 5 liters gas in my tank the gas flow is not ok.
Over 5 Liter good flow.
I checked this by run out the gas and chewing if there is an issue by depression
Guess have to check the gas cock.

By reassemble the carb I set the needle leaner by moving the clip
Plugs are black still.
I ordered now some jets to make a new setup
By the way
I’m really happy with my tri-spark. No kick back, no fear!
Starts very good, cold even hot.
 
Hi there.
After a long and hard winter and a lot of thinks to do I fired up my Norton Commando this spring. The cutt-off after a while hits me again. So it was time tor investigate again th issue after I renewed the gasoline cocks and make changes at the carb. And what was the outcome: At the turn signal switch I had a short-circuit. What happend was that ground gets in contact with the frame (positive earth) and this brings miss fire abnd cutt-off by the ignition! Now the machine runs without cutt-off, but I have still issues with the set up of Mikuni carb. But for this I have to open a new thread.
 
Hi there.
After a long and hard winter and a lot of thinks to do I fired up my Norton Commando this spring. The cutt-off after a while hits me again. So it was time tor investigate again th issue after I renewed the gasoline cocks and make changes at the carb. And what was the outcome: At the turn signal switch I had a short-circuit. What happend was that ground gets in contact with the frame (positive earth) and this brings miss fire abnd cutt-off by the ignition! Now the machine runs without cutt-off, but I have still issues with the set up of Mikuni carb. But for this I have to open a new thread.

Good job Lorenz! Never give up on your Norton. This group can help you fix anything(on a Norton).
Wrench On/Ride On
Dave
(by the way your English is way better than my German)
 
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