That was a most down and dirty efficient recovery of one trashy bunch of parts. Lucked out to have the tin wear as tended to vibe fracture off. Its flashing me back with them drag pipes. Would love a photo of it w/o fenders or fat seat and the forks tied down a couple of inches. Video audio with and w/o the mufflers would be a kick.
Both brackets are in the only way they can possibly go, they have two halves each with a semi-circle (together they surround the rubber tubes on the mounting bars).
Too bad the late 60s parts books have so few exploded parts diagrams, I can't find ANY for the P11, at least the N15 and Atlas have engine views and some chassis & wheel breakdowns.
As far as I know, none of the period parts manuals had diagrams or exploded views like the Commando manuals. Luckily, many of the assemblies on a '67 Atlas are the same (or similar) on an early Commando. Wheels, brakes, gearbox, engine (except oil feed), forks.
There's enough floating around out there that you should be able to find whatever you're looking for. It just won't be neatly packaged like the Commando parts book.
The P-11 that I tested at N-V had a dual seat and passenger pegs, so I guess it was an A-model. That was fall of 1967, I think. I left in April of '68 and came to the US in searly July.
One of the reasons I traded for this bike was to carefully examine the clutch system to make sure I had rebuilt a client's N15 properly; turns out I did in fact re-assemble it correctly, part-for-part.
Anyway, there was some significant crud in the primary case, and NO OIL!
The main reason the clutch was sticking was it was RUSTED TOGETHER.
One thing for sure, this primary case has never been off the power unit; the peenings for the set screws are still perfect (again, sorry for the cruddy cell phone photo quality)-
Thanx to my knifemaker friend, Enrique, I no longer need to use my concrete shop floor to clean up my clutch plates, he has granted me a "long-term loan" of a dual-mode grinder; it uses both a 4" belt, AND a 12" disc. I made quick work of knocking the rust off the clutch plates; down to the staining without removing any steel-
Primary all clean; the alternator rotor has the strongest magnets of any Lucas rotor I've seen-
Last job for the day was to repair a broken timing side footpeg standoff stud by welding on a correct length bolt (didn't have extractor tools to remove the broken stub that was snapped off flush with the shoulder)-
Only worked a few hours before dusk because I worked most of the day on a CAD drawing of a security gate for a friend.
The bike is ALMOST done; it's down to the rear brake pedal & rod, tail light connections, horn, proper fuel lines, and correct battery.
Came across another missing part: the rear brake pedal spindle bolt. I am temporarily using a Norton rear hub lug bolt and a Triumph brake rod with a makeshift trunnion setup; it works and isn't going anywhere.
Pipes came out better than expected, but that's mostly due to the fact that they fabricated entire main muffler sections instead of trying to weld on paper-thin rusty metal.
That's going to be about it 'till I figure out the final disposition.
Hi.
Please, like in the picture, could you let me know the measures of the distance from the end of the main central tube (those from the neck) and the beginning of the bracket (welded on the frame where you fix the oil tank mount brackets), and from the end of this bracket to the beginning of the rear tube where you fix the rear fender.
Thank you.
Piero
The bike in the picture above is a Ranger 750, the last of the P11 series - like mine. The Ranger is different from the P11A in two items in that picture:
1) The L-shaped pin and short bracket just in front of the oil tank is for mounting the Ranger seat.
2) the small tab on the cross tube that mounts the front of the fender is also only for the Ranger. The P11 and P11A fiberglass seat pans (bottom) also served as the fender. On both the P11 and P11A, the fender ended at the back of the seat.
I do not have dimensions for the distance from the main tube back to the cross bars, but have the following information:
Rear frame tubes are 1-1/8" diameter. The two top tubes splay out from the main tube at about a 40 deg angle. Each top tube runs about 16" before bending back parallel. The flat piece that carries the oil tank is 4" long at the center line. The frame cross tube behind it is 5-3/4" at the center line. The distance between the frame tubes at the back is 9". the parallel section is about 5" long.
The P11 loop has no cross piece on it, only the two tabs to mount the fender. The front of the fender mounts to similar tabs on the cross tube found only on the P11/G85 frame with the short solo seat.
The Ranger loop is the same as the P11A loop picture in the post above, except with 2 holes instead of five. The Ranger only uses two holes to support the fender. Those outer holes are for the seat mounting studs on a P11A. The Ranger seat is bolted to the upper damper mounts via brackets that bolt to the seat pan.
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