ok, i need to tackle my front forks next. that and a front wheel overhaul are all that's left untouched. he's a '72 and i do believe the forks have gone untouched since original mfg. i drained the old oil which was contaminated w/ water and god knows what else and replaced w/ atf. they're not working well. i've searched and read the manual and , as always, i'm looking for the biggest bang for the buck. my riding is hilly, switchback kind of stuff. will a basic overhaul accopmmodate me? i really don't want to spend 700=800 bucks on something i don't have the riding skill to appreciate. is there something in between the basic overhaul and the exotic rebuild that is cost/effect affective? thanks, rick
basic front fork rebuild OR
- Thread starter rgrigutis
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Rick,
Bottom line is to refurbish what you got with new bushes and seals. You'll be amazed at the crud that settles into the fork legs, give 'em a real good clean out and beware of losing the inner washer at the bottom of the fork leg. They design is pretty basic and all of the upgrades are worthwhile. Having said that I'm running mine stock until such time and money permits. The forks are simple once you have them stripped and laid out. Just do it methodically and lay everything down in order, take photos and all will go back together OK. Use a good quality fork oil, I find a 10 weight ok for most purposes, maybe 15 if you like it bit stiffer. Getting the oil in once the forks are back on the yokes can be made easier by using a syringe to inject or a fine nose small funnel. '
Mick
Bottom line is to refurbish what you got with new bushes and seals. You'll be amazed at the crud that settles into the fork legs, give 'em a real good clean out and beware of losing the inner washer at the bottom of the fork leg. They design is pretty basic and all of the upgrades are worthwhile. Having said that I'm running mine stock until such time and money permits. The forks are simple once you have them stripped and laid out. Just do it methodically and lay everything down in order, take photos and all will go back together OK. Use a good quality fork oil, I find a 10 weight ok for most purposes, maybe 15 if you like it bit stiffer. Getting the oil in once the forks are back on the yokes can be made easier by using a syringe to inject or a fine nose small funnel. '
Mick
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My riding is hilly and switch back smooth to lumpy.
Best bang for the buck and minor effort is the kit Greg Fuath
offers for $65 IIRC.
I use it to spank sports bikes and play Steve McQueen in rough
pastures over legal highway speeds. Easy to modify for
height and progressive spring rates plus silent indefinite
top and bottom outs hitting gopher holes to landing off
ledges or crest jumps. No jitters to wrists over Gravel stones.
I like it better than modern forks I've tired on dirt bikes
to sports bikes. Uncanny pleasing to me except no sales
kick backs : (
Also a fork brace highly recommended for fast fork work,
takes fork twist up spring back conflicts to pilot input out of the picture.
RGM is nice one that also extends slider bush support on top outs.
Thank goodness there is nil loads on forks when ever they top out
and instantly compress for support again as loaded back down.
hobot
Best bang for the buck and minor effort is the kit Greg Fuath
offers for $65 IIRC.
I use it to spank sports bikes and play Steve McQueen in rough
pastures over legal highway speeds. Easy to modify for
height and progressive spring rates plus silent indefinite
top and bottom outs hitting gopher holes to landing off
ledges or crest jumps. No jitters to wrists over Gravel stones.
I like it better than modern forks I've tired on dirt bikes
to sports bikes. Uncanny pleasing to me except no sales
kick backs : (
Also a fork brace highly recommended for fast fork work,
takes fork twist up spring back conflicts to pilot input out of the picture.
RGM is nice one that also extends slider bush support on top outs.
Thank goodness there is nil loads on forks when ever they top out
and instantly compress for support again as loaded back down.
hobot
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2010
- Messages
- 5
She's a 72, not he..
DogT
VIP MEMBER
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At least take them apart, clean everything, and install new seals. New tubes if worn. New bushings if they are loose, but expect to work on the new bushings, they never seem to fit correctly. I too am going with the originals until I decide on an upgrade. There is lots of stuff out there for upgrades from $35 and up to what ever you can afford.
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
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On the hardly ever fitting new bushes, the first line of attack
has been mentions by someone else on another Roadholder thread
and I discovered myself in frustration with a BI hammer handy.
Apparently bushes get out of round so keep in mind to try
just lightly tapping bush while its being pressed down
on stansion tube it may gradually just slip on fine as can be,
no material removed and no sweating or swearing.
Do block off the old damper tube bottom holes and move
up 1/2-3/4" above the tapper rim, might stagger the
holes and make slightly smaller in area for more progressive
dampening to bottom that is silent and indefinite delight.
hobot
has been mentions by someone else on another Roadholder thread
and I discovered myself in frustration with a BI hammer handy.
Apparently bushes get out of round so keep in mind to try
just lightly tapping bush while its being pressed down
on stansion tube it may gradually just slip on fine as can be,
no material removed and no sweating or swearing.
Do block off the old damper tube bottom holes and move
up 1/2-3/4" above the tapper rim, might stagger the
holes and make slightly smaller in area for more progressive
dampening to bottom that is silent and indefinite delight.
hobot
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- May 7, 2005
- Messages
- 6,834
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2009
- Messages
- 2,210
If you value your friends,wife or girl friend's company...Donot fit the Lansdowne Kit! One guy did...and he aint been seen since, reports are he's some where near the south pole, the poor man cannot stop riding the sweet handling bike...So be Warned! Lansdowne Dampers go behond the the cheaper limitations...read the Norton owners tec adviser's report. Mr John Dunn wrote..." Forks behaved perfect, no pot hole could upset the handling" and being fully and quicly adjustable...well what more could you want?...Better get a big,big luggage kit,and a good sat Nav!!... All kit's now come with world maps! :lol: Best of Luck John Lansdowne Eng
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- Dec 28, 2008
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- 2,035
RGM Motors:
http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk/main.htm
Has all the bits you will need to return your forks to what I'd call "Stock +" condition at very reasonable prices; even their Progressive springs are less expensive than what you'd pay for them in the US, go figure.
In essence you should consider the following:
1) new valve bodies
2) new "pistons"
3) new valve body caps
4) extended upper businngs
5) new stancions, if yours are visibly worn
6) new damper rods, if yours are pitted
6) new seals, top and bottom
I use 20w Belray fork oil on the advise of the folks at CNW, I put new Hagons on the rear and 'am very happy with the handeling of my '75 Mk III. You can put Olins forks on the front and work out a sexy mono shock for the rear, but your Norton will never handel as well as a modern sport bike; you may have bigger balls, but the bottom line is that the stock suspension, in spec, is perfectly matched to the task at hand.
RS
http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk/main.htm
Has all the bits you will need to return your forks to what I'd call "Stock +" condition at very reasonable prices; even their Progressive springs are less expensive than what you'd pay for them in the US, go figure.
In essence you should consider the following:
1) new valve bodies
2) new "pistons"
3) new valve body caps
4) extended upper businngs
5) new stancions, if yours are visibly worn
6) new damper rods, if yours are pitted
6) new seals, top and bottom
I use 20w Belray fork oil on the advise of the folks at CNW, I put new Hagons on the rear and 'am very happy with the handeling of my '75 Mk III. You can put Olins forks on the front and work out a sexy mono shock for the rear, but your Norton will never handel as well as a modern sport bike; you may have bigger balls, but the bottom line is that the stock suspension, in spec, is perfectly matched to the task at hand.
RS
Thanks boys. I' llget those guys apart and go from there.
Re: basic front fork rebuild OR
by johnnycaker » Thu May 13, 2010 4:51 pm
She's a 72, not he..
johnnycaker
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 2:49 pm
Top
johnnycakes, why do you care about the gender of my bike? Are you a chick? For the life of me I see nothing feminine in a norton commando. Butkus, bogart, gable, yes. Marilyn, Madonna no
Re: basic front fork rebuild OR
by johnnycaker » Thu May 13, 2010 4:51 pm
She's a 72, not he..
johnnycaker
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 2:49 pm
Top
johnnycakes, why do you care about the gender of my bike? Are you a chick? For the life of me I see nothing feminine in a norton commando. Butkus, bogart, gable, yes. Marilyn, Madonna no
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2009
- Messages
- 2,210
Cannot agree, The very idea of a 850cc Commando running around with forks from a 1953 ES2, well beggers belief, Next i will be hearing single sided drum , six volt electric's are good enough, not to mention the old speedmasters! Dont beleive me...then ask the thirty odd forum members if they are going to swap back to the stock fork internals...should make good reading.¬ "
RoadScholar said:
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- Dec 28, 2008
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I'm glad that you do not agree, makes this a great place to exchange ideas.
My point was that a Norton is only as strong as its weakest link, of which they have many (peruse the forum). Norton Commandos were responsible for the term "Super Bike", very cool. Current super bikes have cartirdge forks, you can add one to your Norton, but superbikes have perimiter frames, you could, conceivebly, make one for your Norton...
At what point do you depart from Norton and become a complete custom, like the Brittens? I adore my Nortons ('75 Mk III and an "in-process "72 Combat) The standard fork will give me all the advantage I need to move these gracefull machines through the twisties at a speed that ALL the parts can do together without getting wierd, if I want to go any faster (safer??) I'll take my Ducati.
RS
My point was that a Norton is only as strong as its weakest link, of which they have many (peruse the forum). Norton Commandos were responsible for the term "Super Bike", very cool. Current super bikes have cartirdge forks, you can add one to your Norton, but superbikes have perimiter frames, you could, conceivebly, make one for your Norton...
At what point do you depart from Norton and become a complete custom, like the Brittens? I adore my Nortons ('75 Mk III and an "in-process "72 Combat) The standard fork will give me all the advantage I need to move these gracefull machines through the twisties at a speed that ALL the parts can do together without getting wierd, if I want to go any faster (safer??) I'll take my Ducati.
RS
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- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Aw shoot no matter how great the forks are the isolastics + frame
torsion tubes springing will limit you holding a line on the road
before tire traction is reached.
Just getting restored factory forks done is fine for sane thrilling riding.
I have no desire to alter as factory supplied em Combat for sane
thrilling smooth torquey delights, but no is it way safe or possible
to hang with last 2 decades of sports bikes in sweepers and opens.
If this thread has the attention of scary fast riders,
if still going so slow on whimpy power planting that the front
tire is still in traction, pashaw, there ain't nothing that
can Approach a tri-linked isolastic energy storing sling shooting
traction pulse dampening power unit Commando with 750 stem angle.
Bring on them corner crippled fat tired straight line sports
bikes - V twins or inline 4's passing them again in twisties after
lthey finally pass in long straight is part of the joy.
Ever try to slide an unicycle? No regular bikes can handle it.
hobot
torsion tubes springing will limit you holding a line on the road
before tire traction is reached.
Just getting restored factory forks done is fine for sane thrilling riding.
I have no desire to alter as factory supplied em Combat for sane
thrilling smooth torquey delights, but no is it way safe or possible
to hang with last 2 decades of sports bikes in sweepers and opens.
If this thread has the attention of scary fast riders,
if still going so slow on whimpy power planting that the front
tire is still in traction, pashaw, there ain't nothing that
can Approach a tri-linked isolastic energy storing sling shooting
traction pulse dampening power unit Commando with 750 stem angle.
Bring on them corner crippled fat tired straight line sports
bikes - V twins or inline 4's passing them again in twisties after
lthey finally pass in long straight is part of the joy.
Ever try to slide an unicycle? No regular bikes can handle it.
hobot
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