When I first bought my bike it had less than 2,000 miles on the clock and it had Barnett alloy plates with the tangs worn to a sharp point, so I bough a new set of plates, have done about 3,000 miles the clutch was very rattly and checked the plates, again they have worn very badly to sharp points. Surely this can't be acceptable wear for this item, they seem to be made from melted down soft drink cans. Are there any other acceptable alternative friction plates out there that are not going to need replacing every few months?
Barnett clutch plates
- Thread starter edward
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2011
- Messages
- 2,668
What is the condition of your clutch hub? If it is badly notched, it will likely beat the hell out of the tabs on the Barnett clutch plates.
motoalchemist
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2010
- Messages
- 395
as per above. the barnett clutch wont last 1000 miles if your clutch hub is notched. factory fiber plates never wear out anyway. or go with sureflex
A
Anonymous
Guest
You might try using original friction plates with a clutch pushrod seal and running 300ml of type F transmission fluid in the primary cases. I have added an extra steel plate into the cluster to compensate for friction plate wear and to even out clutch centre notching.
I find this to be an excellent arrangement - tried and trusted over many years.
I find this to be an excellent arrangement - tried and trusted over many years.
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2009
- Messages
- 1,459
needing writes: "I have added an extra steel plate into the cluster to compensate for friction plate wear and to even out clutch centre notching."
Please explain. I get the plate wear notion but what is the even out bit?
Stephen Hill
Please explain. I get the plate wear notion but what is the even out bit?
Stephen Hill
A
Anonymous
Guest
By putting the spare steel into the basket first, the friction plates (and steel plates) are moved out of the notches onto the peaks. When worn equal again, the spare plate goes in last. Repeat as required.Stephen Hill said:
Also use clutch centre nut replacement Triumph 65-3823 to reduce clutch assembly 'wobble'.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2011
- Messages
- 2,668
needing said:
How does any difference in a clutch center nut reduce clutch assembly wobble? My recollection is that all wobble of the assembly is attributed to the amount of looseness in the clutch basket bearings. The clutch hub (held in place on the splines by a nut) is rock steady.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2010
- Messages
- 4,193
I had clutch slippage issues with the MK III factory bronze clutch plates when the engine would "come on the pipe" so I replaced them with Barnett plates. I realize the Barnetts wear out and the bronze plates don't, but adding extra plates to compensate for a soft clutch hub seems like a bodge job to me.
My central hub is noticeably notched, the other thing I've noticed is there seems to be a large amount of backlash or freeplay when turning the hub with the plates removed maybe 20 degrees or more, I don't know what is normal. It is one of the Dreer Nortons with belt drive and I'm not sure of the manufacturer of the pulleys. There is some wobble of the basket and a slight to and fro movement on the shaft but the clutch nut is still tight and locked.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2011
- Messages
- 2,668
I would replace the hub, regardless of which clutch plates you choose to go with. I am told there are softer hubs and harder hubs, so naturally go with the harder hub. If the basket bearing is wobbly, then this an excellent time to replace it. If you are running a dry belt drive then the bearing must be a sealed variety.
The rotational slop of 20 degrees you describe sounds about right for a Norton gear box lash.
The rotational slop of 20 degrees you describe sounds about right for a Norton gear box lash.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
