B44 fork seal holder

I'm trying to get the fork seal holders out of the sliders and of course I don't have the proper tool ( Norton's are not so fussy...). I welded a couple tabs inside a piece of 1 1/2" black pipe and futzed with it until it it fits the slots in the holder. The holder is very tight. When I put a 24" pipe wrench on the tool it cams out. I have some PB Blaster in there right now but if that does not help Do you have any tips, techniques, etc. make the holders easier to turn ?

Thanks

Greg

Use a heat gun to warm up the seal holder. I have the proper tool, but careful use of a strap wrench might help. You can crush the seal holder with the strap wrench if not careful.

In the end you may have to just scrap them but heat and using the proper tool or one made to faithfully copy the 2 tabs should work eventually. I file a back angle on the tabs so the more torque you apply the greater the down pull on the tabs instead of camming out, but I have had the tabs just give up and then got the vice grips out and destroyed the seal holders. I have made a much longer than std tool and mounted the fork lower in a lathe chuck and the tool to the tailstock so it could not rise up and force downwards on the fork lower could be applied.

A combination of all of the above including tapping on the holder with a hard plastic hammer while heating them made 'em give up without much of a struggle. My lathe is not big enough to hold the leg so a couple of tiedown straps, a big washer, etc. provided the downforce to keep the tool engaged. The 24" pipe wrench was not too big...

The tubes are scored from 3" to 7" up from the bottom. It looks like some big grit got into the top bushings or something. Tubes, bushings, seals, is there anything else that should be replaced while they are apart ? What does the thick rubber washer under the nut on the damper rod do ? Do they go bad ?

Thanks for the help.

Greg

The tubes are scored from 3" to 7" up from the bottom. It looks like some big grit got into the top bushings or something.

Most wear seems to come from rust, I change the oil every year regardless of mileage and grease the springs when first assembled to get rid of the squeaks, forks with internal springs are even worse for rust. The new tubes from Emgo and others are now hard chromed so less rust from the outside of the tube and better fork action.

Tubes, bushings, seals, is there anything else that should be replaced while they are apart ?

I replace the seal holders with earlier longer ones in stainless as I live near the coast and the chrome never lasts, they are missing the ring but the fork gaiter does not seem to bother and hangs on nicely, watch very carefully what gaiters you get, some do not have enough anti UV protection and end up as rings within a year. Also I replace the bottom bolt aluminium washer with an annealed copper one which works better plus a sealant like loctite 515/518, the old washer will be hidden at the bottom of the hole and will need removing carefully, there may be older ones in there as well if they have been apart before as very hard to see them and the next one is added over the old one.

What does the thick rubber washer under the nut on the damper rod do ?

Just stops the oil splashing onto the underside of the fork top nut so less likelyhood of a leak, also helps centralise the rod so it can be fished out easier

Do they go bad ?

Always find the rubber has gone hard, a bit of sealant on the top fork nut thread works better.

I suggest that you simply pony-up and purchase the right tool; it won't bust you and will give you plenty time to worry about something else. If you intend to replace the holders you could use a pipe wrench, just do the job when no one is watching and dispose of the evidence in a deep hole. The ironic side of this is this, unless you have the seal holder tool, you will be faced with tightening the new holders with some other tool abortion which may reek havoc with the new holders; far from what the hi-tech geeks call a win-win. ( I played in their sandbox for over 30 years and never got tired of despising them---paid pretty good though...)

I apply the seal holder removal tool before I remove the axle and have never had a problem persuading the holders to loosen, or properly tighten upon reassembly. I've not need to use heat, but it can be your friend.

Like commando I replace the chromed holders with stainless (my business IS stainless), done this on a Triumph and will be doing this on an A65.

I am in a position to lend you my seal holder tool, if you don't have one by now. PM me with contact and I'm happy to discuss the details.

Best wishes.