Aww c&ap

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warpedscout

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So I get everything off the frame and start taking the data plate off. Cut the rivets, whatever's they are so I can use a screwdriver and two come out fine. Third breaks off but grind off the top and punch through no problem. The fourth same deal but won't punch through, two punches broke later and three drill bits still no go. Easy out wont work and now out of ideas. Almost thinking screw it and just leave as is.

Any good ideas. Hole not very pretty after trying all this!
 
Heat the snot out of the stem first, short of paint blistering it not repainting. Its a type of drive in screw, don't know real term. Any one can turn a wrench, stuck up fastener removed w/o screwing the base part up, now that will make a real nerve wracked mechanic out of you.
 
That is what I did, now have a hole I have been drilling and beating to get the shank out with no luck.
 
Ok there's another way to escalate beyond cave man tools, if a welder can tack a rod on the shank then wait 10 sec for heat to flow out to surround likely just pull it out and get on with it. Delicate touch of electric arc w/o spatter skill but I've had it done a few times with success and no ruined hole to remake.
 
from what i remember they have kinda a "screw in" effect to them. with mine i used a little cut off wheel and cut a cross into the head so i could use a phillips screwdriver to turn them out, but sounds like your beyond that point. surprised the easy out wouldn't get it! can't you just drill through the rest of it at this point?
 
weld up the 4 holes, grind smooth, move plate over 1/4" and drill 4 more holes.
 
It should just punch through, mine were copper and pretty soft. I think they're called drive screws. I don't get why it won't just punch straight through to the inside? When I put new ones in, I drilled a 1/4" divot in the top of a bolt head and drove them in with that so I didn't flatten the head.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
It should just punch through, mine were copper and pretty soft. I think they're called drive screws. I don't get why it won't just punch straight through to the inside? When I put new ones in, I drilled a 1/4" divot in the top of a bolt head and drove them in with that so I didn't flatten the head.

Dave
69S
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The OEM drive screws that were on my bike were not copper.....they were very hard steel and I had to use a Dremel grinder with a carbide bit to grind the heads flush so that they could be driven out with a hammer and punch. Not a particularly easy task.

Again it looks like Norton used whatever thay had on hand, on any given day, to manufacture these bikes..........
 
Don't punch them thru. They are tapered and only get tighter.
Either try to screw them out or remove the trees and bearings and push them out from the inside.
 
Just looked at my Nortons and the tapered screws look to be steel. Replaced one I.D. plate (alluminum) years back, due to a cable wearing an ugly slot into it. Wd40 to all 4, then vice-gripped the heads to back them out ,no probs. Very tapered. For your dilemma I would purchase a couple of hardened titanium metal drill bits with a drop of cutting oil . Wear goggles and swear.
 
In the UK these are called milled rivets and and the ends are undersized so when they are hammered home the cut into the soft metal wth a helix effect.
Can prove difficult to remove but they are used for security purposes as well.
Regards,
Paul.
 
I originally used a dremel and cut hem to use a flathead. Two came out, third ground down and punched through. My neighbor Is going to help me try to get out, weld over mess I made and re drill. Need o get a good set of drills, mine have broke.
 
hobot said:
Heat the snot out of the stem first, short of paint blistering it not repainting. Its a type of drive in screw, don't know real term. Any one can turn a wrench, stuck up fastener removed w/o screwing the base part up, now that will make a real nerve wracked mechanic out of you.
Click to expand...
Formally called "escutcheon pins"
 
Aww C&ap > LOL! No wonder I couldn't remember to associate that word-term for the tapered little rap in screw brads doodads. I don't know the root of this word but must have something to do with the tapering part ie: males a dimond shape, females more triangle.

escutcheon /es·cutch·eon/ (es-kuch´un) the pattern of distribution of human pubic hair.
 
FWIW, the original drive rivets are steel, but the replacements you get with repro plates are frequently bronze, with a bright (nickel?) plating.

Ken
 
lcrken said:
FWIW, the original drive rivets are steel, but the replacements you get with repro plates are frequently bronze, with a bright (nickel?) plating.

Ken
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They are brass/bronze plated but they are still steel. I checked with a magnet.
I got mine from Walridge.
Thomas
CNN
 
Oh, no, we've disintegrated to body parts. I guess that's better than bodily functions, which is pretty sophomoric. Oh, well.

Dave
 
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