Article about Lucas 2MC capacitor

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I found it interesting.
Link:
http://www.gabma.us/elec/2mc_warning.pdf


Text:
Copyright RF Whatley, Suwanee, GA 1 March 2006
Lucas 2MC Capacitor Warning
1967 was the last year for the Lucas Energy Transfer (or “ET”) ignition system for use on British
competition motorcycles. In an effort to streamline production and to meet US import laws, starting
in 1968 Triumph and BSA sold only “road” bikes with the battery/coil ignition. If you wanted to
ride off-road or race you were forced to buy a road legal motorcycle, remove the lights and
otherwise prepare it for competition.
Part of that preparation included removal of the battery and battery tray. The battery, which was
required for proper functioning of the battery/coil ignition, was replaced with the Lucas version of
the ”battery eliminator”, otherwise known as the 2MC capacitor. The 2MC was a large electrolytic
capacitor that connected to the harness in the same manner as the battery, but weighed about
1/100th of the battery.
Starting in 1968, Norton P11’s also came from the factory with a battery and a 2MC capacitor
fitted. Again, the P11 was a competition machine and most P11’s ended up with the battery
removed. Then, starting about 1970, all Commandos came fitted with a battery and the 2MC. By
installing both, Norton was able to hold the system voltage at high levels even though the battery
may have started to age and slip below 12V.
Later on, in 1971 BSA and Triumph introduced a series of “oil in the frame” 250cc and 500cc
single cylinder motorcycles with an aluminum electrical box just behind the head post and below
the fuel tank. The idea was that if you wanted to ride off-road all you had to do was remove the
lights, battery and electrical harness. All electrical functions required for dirt riding were contained
in this compact electrical box. Inside the box was the battery eliminator, the blue 2MC capacitor.
Copyright RF Whatley, Suwanee, GA 2 March 2006
That was fine in late 60’s and early 70’s. The capacitors worked well and allowed many riders to be
free of the weight and maintenance of a battery. However times change, bikes values increase, and
their owners get better looking. Unfortunately, the 2MC capacitor is not aging as well. It is well
known that some types of capacitors (aka “condensers”), especially the electrolytic type, have a
limited life span. Apparently for the Lucas 2MC, that life is limited to about 30 years.
Internally, capacitors are nothing but 2 large pieces of conductive foil separated by a very thin
insulating film. As this insulator breaks down over time, a very small trickle of electrons begins to
make a path between the 2 charged foils. Since the capacitor is not supposed to pass any electricity
the path is technically a short circuit, but the starting amount is so very, very small. However, just
like a small leak in a earthen dam, soon the trickle turns into a small flow, then a torrent. In the
same way 2MC capacitors start life as a good insulator, then become a small resistor, and finally
after many years end up as a short circuit.
No less than 3 times in the last month I have had to diagnose and remove 2MC capacitors that were
faulty. All 3 had developed into “near short circuits” that were draining the battery, but offered
enough resistance that the fuse wasn’t being blown. All 3 owners complained of batteries that
constantly had to be charged, even though the bike was ridden regularly. The bike would run good,
but due to the internal failure of the 2MC, the electrical system acted as if the tail lamp had been left
ON when the motorcycle was parked. The owner always came back to find the battery was dead.
When a 2MC works properly it can disguise the fact that the battery is dying until the owner is left
walking. And when the 2MC starts to fail the owner may buy several batteries before discovering
the actual problem. When you add to this electrical game of hide-and-seek the fact of its inevitable
failure, you may decide that having a 2MC in your electrical system might simply be more pain
than it’s worth. Therefore, if your bike is equipped with the bright blue Lucas 2MC capacitor that
was fitted as original equipment, in my opinion the best thing you can do is to disconnect the RED
wire from the positive terminal. After disconnection, the RED wire should be insulated with heat
shrink tubing to prevent accidental re-connection.
If you decide to replace your 2MC and keep your motorcycle completely original, then it’s very
important that you get a freshly manufactured unit. The ageing process that causes the problem
happens regardless of whether the capacitor is sitting on a stock room shelf or installed on a
motorcycle. In other words, a “new old stock” capacitor could be “bad” even though it was still
untouched and in the box. If you are unsure of the quality of the capacitor your local bike shop has,
then you can look for a 4500-microfarad electrolytic capacitor rated at 30V from an electronics
supply house.
Hope this helps!
RF Whatley
Rodi British Bikes
 
Either replace or alternatively unplug the wires to the 2MC. If the battery is good, the capacitor really isn't needed. Those with a Boyer ignition, the capacitor is useless as you can't get enough voltage on a dead battery kick starting to make the Boyer light the fire. When I get home, I'm unplugging mine.

Thanks
 
illf8ed said:
.. Those with a Boyer ignition, the capacitor is useless as you can't get enough voltage on a dead battery kick starting to make the Boyer light the fire..
You can , but it is not easy .
Disconnect battery first , and make shure all current consumers are off .
Be prepared for some nasty kickbacks .
Pazons are easier .
RF Wathley's aversion for 2MC 's is well known .
He is of course right about the aging , but not all 30 year old caps are dead .
Check the caps by loading them up and check voltage after a few days with a digital voltmeter .
An analogue meter will discharge them immediately .
A good capacitor will still show 11 volts after several weeks .
You do not really need one , but if for whatever reason , you are stranded with a flat battery , the cap will make the difference between riding and pushing .
Personally , I haven't one connected in my wiring , but on longer trips I allways have one in my toolbox .
Not 2MC , but a little more capacity :

Article about Lucas 2MC capacitor


I have the bad habit of swiching my engine off with my kill switch .
Ocasionally I forget to switch off the ignition proper ( alzheimer ? ) and end up wit a flat battery .
Then I disconnect battery and connect cap , 2 kicks to charge the cap and start on 3rd or 4th kick . (Pazon shurefire ign) .
Saved the day more than once .
So , disconnect if you want , but don't leave home without it ..
 
FWIW it is sometimes possible to revive old caps by bringing them up to rated voltage very slowly, or "reforming" them....there is some good info on this at broken link removed
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Never ran a battery in my Commando . Just the Capacitor .Though previous machines had Magnetos . :D
 
Check your wiring diagram.

In MOST cases, you can just remove your main fuse, turn on your key, turn OFF your kill switch and kick 6 - 8 times to charge the cap; THEN turn on your kill switch and kick once to start with no kickback.

Some hand-wired bikes are different and may not pass current from alternator to the cap with the kill switch off.
 
grandpaul said:
.. turn on your key , turn OFF your kill switch and kick 6 - 8 times to charge the cap; THEN turn on your kill switch and kick once to start with no kickback..

..something you clearly have never done yourself .
std wired Commandos don't have a kill switch ..
 
ludwig said:
std wired Commandos don't have a kill switch

'71-'74 Commandos certainly have a kill button as standard, and 850 Mk3 models have a kill switch.
 
L.A.B. said:
'71-'74 Commandos certainly have a kill button as standard, and 850 Mk3 models have a kill switch.

Ok about the MKIII ( never owned one ), but a button is not a switch ..
 
L.A.B. said:
..The button breaks an electrical circuit when pressed, therefore it is a switch..
technically speaking the kill button is a switch , but not one that you can turn in an 'off' or 'on' position , like GP suggested .
( charging a 2MC doesn't take 6 kicks either ..)
 
ludwig said:
L.A.B. said:
..The button breaks an electrical circuit when pressed, therefore it is a switch..
technically speaking the kill button is a switch , but not one that you can turn in an 'off' or 'on' position , like GP suggested .


I think you are attempting to 'split hairs' ludwig?
Let's not get too over-critical, as I think most people would have understood what he meant, and in any case he could have been thinking of the Mk3 kill switch.

ludwig said:
( charging a 2MC doesn't take 6 kicks either ..)
If the charge warning lamp works and also the neutral warning lamp (Mk3) that/they would continually discharge the capacitor even if the ignition circuit was isolated by the kill switch so any 'pre-kicking' to charge up the 2MC would be rather pointless in my opinion.
 
grandpaul said:
Check your wiring diagram.

In MOST cases, you can just remove your main fuse, turn on your key, turn OFF your kill switch and kick 6 - 8 times to charge the cap; THEN turn on your kill switch and kick once to start with no kickback.

Some hand-wired bikes are different and may not pass current from alternator to the cap with the kill switch off.

what a joke

I will add to ludwigs hair splitting? It does not take 6-8 kicks to charge the cap, and further more, any electronics newbe that has passed electronics 101 knows how to figure the discharge time for a 4500uf cap through a 1.8 ohm coil.
"In an RC circuit, the value of the time constant (in seconds) is equal to the product of the circuit resistance (in ohms) and the circuit capacitance (in farads)",
.0045f (4500Uf)x1.8ohms = .008sec to loose 66% of the 12V. Therefore only 4 V remaining.... after .024 sec the cap is effectly discharged
from the time you release the kill switch.... can you have the kick lever in full swing in 24 milliseconds ?????

Obviously not, unless you're GP :roll:
 
I happen to have a Mark III, and I've done it exactly the way I described (but yes, it is a button). Could have been luck? must have been, because I rode away and got the bike home without pushing (battery was totally dead). Did I defy Ohm's law? Apparently.

"It ain't braggin' if ya done it"

Split hairs to your heart's content, boys.

(I use new 2MC clones available from most Britbike parts distributors)
 
I used to run my 69 on the MC2 only back in the 70's. Never had a battery, I was real cheap then. I was planning on doing the same after the rebuild, but the cap was bad, I installed a replacement, but could never get it to even poot with only the cap. I ended up having to get a battery. I suppose the magnetism of the rotor is probably diminished over the years and the alternator just doesn't put out enough juice to make a good spark although it was visible. Installed Pazon in the meantime, so it's moot point now, but I certainly did like running without the battery, it would start in 2 kicks back then too.

Yes, the ignition circuit will drain that cap (even a bigger one) faster than you can return the kickstart, ignition is just depending on having enough juice to get it to start. I found a 2 AH battery was good enough to get it going though.

Dave
69S
 
GP your experience validates ohms law.

OK every one, the 2MC cap is an "efficiency aid" to the charging system. That means....no/very little voltage gets wasted out the zener with the battery missing. The cap is not even in the same league as a tiny battery.
An unbutchered MKIII has a single phase 180W alternator instead of the regular 120W. The MKIII rationally makes more kicking electrical power than a 120W. The weaker the supply (120w) the more important the cap is...In a 180w situation it is less important.

OEM Points/coil is a less demanding (electrically) to start than a boyer or rita.
 
Just checked my 40 year old (Dec '71 built 750) 2MC with a multimeter. I pulled the wires from the capacitor connections and checked the output....12.7v. It's been a week since the last ride, so means the capacitor is still good, right?
 
illf8ed said:
I pulled the wires from the capacitor connections and checked the output....12.7v. It's been a week since the last ride, so means the capacitor is still good, right?

It would be, if you had disconnected the 2MC a week ago?

Switching off the ignition doesn't disconnect the 2MC from the battery, whether the bike has been unused for a day, a week or a month makes no difference as the 2MC will remain fully charged until it is actually disconnected from the battery, (or the fuse is removed etc) only then will it begin to discharge which-if it's still good, could take several hours. The 2MC test procedure is in the factory manuals.
 
I've got a '70 Bonneville that will start within 4 or 5 kicks after sitting for over a year, it has nothing but a 2MC and points on it. The 2MC on it is AT LEAST 10 years old.

C'mon over to the shop and I'll prove it.

Article about Lucas 2MC capacitor


(yes, it had a battery in this photo, but not any more. Yes, it's a Bonnie; only the PIPES are TR6C)
 
illf8ed said:
Just checked my 40 year old (Dec '71 built 750) 2MC with a multimeter. I pulled the wires from the capacitor connections and checked the output....12.7v. It's been a week since the last ride, so means the capacitor is still good, right?

it COULD be.....similar electrolytic capacitors in tube/valve audio equipment often go bad after 30+ years but I've seen some that were still OK after more than 50, the ones that have not sat unused for long periods do much better but it is standard practice to replace them when restoring old amplifiers, radios, etc Sometimes they fail completely but often they get "leaky" electrically. Since 2MC replacements are readily available and only $16 or so it would probably be wise to replace one that old.
 
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