Any tips to test the clutch?

Immediately in second gear feels like I'm losing power for a second or two. Is this a sign of clutch slip? Any tips how to further prove or troubleshoot. I thought it would be more prevalent in first gear but thats not the case. Anyone else experience this?

Similar experience to yourself which seemed to get worse as the bike warmed up / 20 minutes in. Took the (bronze) clutch plates out and found them to be contaminated with smears of gooey gear oil. I washed the plates off with petrol, reinstalled as was, and all fine for last wee while. For what its worth I'm a newbie mechanic and this my first major journey into the bowels of the commando - a straightforward (and seemingly common) operation.

Pretty much only way to test is road loads, though if really getting on it tire spin on 1st 2 upshifts can feel like clutch slip. Most reports of slip occur in 850's in 3rd gear. ATF has solved my past habitual clutch freeing and plate cleaning annoyance for years at a time.

Actually problem only noticed since I switched to ATF

Well it ain't d/t the AFT so good hunting beyond that.

Testimonial: haven't had any further clutch slippage issue with my '72 combat using original clutch plates since adding a clutch rod seal.

My 850 will slip in 2nd and 3rd gear under hard acceleration when the plates need cleaning. Every 2 years or so.

speirmoor said:

Actually problem only noticed since I switched to ATF

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As it's a Mk3, personally I'd recommend you use 20w/50 in the primary.

speirmoor said:

Immediately in second gear feels like I'm losing power for a second or two. Is this a sign of clutch slip? Any tips how to further prove or troubleshoot. I thought it would be more prevalent in first gear but thats not the case. Anyone else experience this?

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If the motor rpms move up quickly while at the same time the bike doesn't seem to be accelerating proportional to the revs then you have a slipping clutch.
If yes clean plates and inside of clutch basket very thoroughly. I use gasoline and scotchbright pad outside of garage with rubber gloves.
Add clutch rod seal particularly if the bike normally sits using side stand as gravity will pull oil to clutch.

This is a common problem so no big deal but should be cleaned asap since slipping in addition to reducing performance may cause friction damage to the plates including warpage.

Get someone to sit on it and drop thje clutch at 4.000 rpm . If it goes vertical , smokes the back wheel , and goes through a wall , ITS GRIPPING .

Normally actually has a metalic feel to it , engageing . The Lever released for 2nd half of travel , should be direct drive .
Basically , nose agaist a wall , feel the take up point . Much out from there itll just stall . ( 1000 rpm's )_ ( ONLY ! )

Should be a distinct freeing in drive about 1/3 way out from bars , 2nd gear at 2.000 odd rpm's .TESTING ( Only - otherwise ! )

If its all soft and gooey , the plates need cleaning . NOT slideing it , in future , will prevent gooey plates from abraded ' stuff ' .

LET the bleedy thing in clean and smartish . Dont use it as another gear . Disengage and flick in neutral at slow speed or halting .
DONT RIDE THE CLUTCH . Old Enzo would have a fit . DONT sit at lights IN GEAR . The blankety push rod will go Red ( hot ) and soften , bell over . shorten . and need replaceing . IF you can get it out .

SO , we Release the Lever & put our feet on the pegs . Otherwise it looks amatureish , careless , incompatent , sloppy & churlish . No Style . The next thing itll be tattoos and sissybars . :wink: :| :mrgreen:

Good advice glad I checked. Going to gather the necessary items and get to it next week. I have the clutch tool for the spring removal. Anything else other than the primary gasket,oil and scotchpads required?