anti drain valve

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brf1957

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May 15, 2009
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Hi has anyone had any experience with the Mick Hemmings anti drain valve just wondered is it safe and does it work Brian
 
Mick Hemmings' anti drain valve is a copy of the Velocette valve and as such should be OK. I have one but have never had the courage to fit it. I think it wiser to drain the sump, if required, after several weeks inactivity. But since I use the bike regularly, wet sumping is not an issue for me. So I would happily sell my valve. PM me if you are interested.
 
If you fit an anti-drain valve in the oil pump intake line, watch the oil pressure at idle. After doing so you'll probably do what I did. Throw the valve under the bench.
 
Hi, thanks for replies already have valve thanks ,its a mates 750 im doing some work on and he asked me to fit valve and i just wondered if there were any problems with these before i fit it Brian
 
Jim C. I have been using a anti wet sumping valve for 2 years without any issues. I ran a series of pressure tests before and after the installation with negligible difference. Mid 20's C and i still have 25 psi at 800 rpm idle. I like many was weary at first however Matt at Colorado Norton Works eased my mind . He was the one who suggested doing the before and after tests. I run with a pressure gauge all the time and i have yet to see anything that worried me .
 
I suppose every Commando is different. When I tried the inline check valve (Velocette type) I had a new oil pump and a fresh bottom end. Oil pressure at idle when the oil was cold (20°C) was well over 25psi, more like 60psi. When the oil got hot, normal operating temperature, I had zero oil pressure at idle. I even tried taking a few rounds out of the spring. I got rid of that valve and sent the timing case and oil pump to AMR for their mod. Been with a dry sump ever since. Having a restrictive valve on the intake side of the oil pump is not exactly confidence inspiring, to me, anyway.
 
There are several types of valve available now. True, restricting intake isn't good but draining the sump or blowing seals is poor too. So far I like mine and i'll tell you if i blow up.
 
True, restricting intake isn't good but draining the sump or blowing seals is poor too.
Click to expand...

I did post another alternative. Putting the ball and spring at the output rather than the input.
 
What is it you do, pull off the oil pump and send it to somebody for modification?
 
Hi - I posted an item a while back ref wet sumping. I fitted a manual tap to my Commando oil-feed line but rigged an electric switch to the tap whereby the bike electrics are isolated unless the tap is switched on (thus the bike won't start if I forget to turn the tap on). This setup works perfectly and obviously there is no restriction to oil flow. The tap is actually a gas tap (quarter turn device) - microbore heating pipe fits the tap perfectly and the microbore pipe is an excellent fit to the oil lines.
 
Mark, that is an ingenious solution. Have you any photos of this arrangement? I would be very interested in knowing how you rigged the electrics.
 
Cookie said:
What is it you do, pull off the oil pump and send it to somebody for modification?
Click to expand...


The timing cover and the pump go to: http://www.amr-of-tucson.com/ The pump gets "O" ring seal and the timing cover is modified to accept the check ball and spring, similar to the MK III.

Another potential problem with an oil intake check valve is the possibility that the oil after the valve may pass through the pump into the sump with the valve closed. Now you have a pump with air instead of oil. I don't know this actually happens, but it is a possibility. All things considered, I just feel the the ball and spring on the pump output is the preferred solution to wet sumping.
 
I had read a bit about that and figure that might be the way to go on the next engine tear down. George also sent me an explanation of it. I had also considered the tap with a switch idea but rejected that because of my memory. I used to modify my Jeep so people would not steal it when I left it at Oyster Point while sailing. I nearly flattened the battery one time when I was tired before I remembered my hidden switch. Don't even ask me about my trailer hitch.
 
I installed a simple on/off WOG (water, oil, gas) valve in the oil line ten years ago.

It is automatic to me to turn it on when I also turn the gas on. But just in case, I have a sticker saying "oil line" on the tach.

I turn the flow off when I get back to the garage and let it run another couple seconds, successfully stamped out wet sumping.
 
highdesert said:
I installed a simple on/off WOG (water, oil, gas) valve in the oil line ten years ago.

It is automatic to me to turn it on when I also turn the gas on. But just in case, I have a sticker saying "oil line" on the tach.

I turn the flow off when I get back to the garage and let it run another couple seconds, successfully stamped out wet sumping.
Click to expand...


May work for you, but no way would I not forget.
 
I'd probably have to do something like put in a relay that controlled the valve when the igniton came on, but that is another part to fail. Except for the Goldwings all my bikes require different aboloutions to the God's before running. I can barely remember to zip my fly in the morning.
 
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