Amal Premier Pilot Jet position

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 30, 2017
Messages
325
Country flag
The new easily removable pilot jet which provides precise metering of the idle circuit which is located in the opposite position to the pilot air screw has been returned after cleaning of the carburettor but I wasn't sure of the position it should be screwed into. I have them so they are just having resistance. Now I am plagued if this is correct or if there is a setting for the replacement of them in the body. Unfortunately I cannot remember where they were, can somebody shed light on this problem.
I have to say the bike runs but after a rebuild the carbs do seem to be harder to set up.
The 0.017 jets have been replaced with 0.019's
 
I have them so they are just having resistance. Now I am plagued if this is correct or if there is a setting for the replacement of them in the body.

Yes, they should be screwed in fully as there's no 'screw adjustment'.
 
The taper on the end of the premier pilot jet provides a seal when it enters the old pilot bush passageway so fuel can only flow through the jet orifice so screw in tight is correct.
 
I’m confused. Unlike the pressed in bush pilot jet on older Amals,where is the new removable jet now located on Premiers?
 
I’m confused. Unlike the pressed in bush pilot jet on older Amals,where is the new removable jet now located on Premiers?
Opposite side on the same centerline as the idle mixture screw
 
Screw them in real tight.
The main and needle jet assembly too.
Vibrations here are quite high, you don't want them to unscrew , ( like what happened on our Lavigne O.N.O. Rally tour , Northern Ontario...) .
 
HMMM looks like you have to remove the carbs in order to change the size of the pilot jet
 
HMMM looks like you have to remove the carbs in order to change the size of the pilot jet
Due to the carb close proximity even if you can slacken the air screws you cannot get one of them out... its slightly too long and hits the opposing carb.... so i removed one carb, and i removed a small amount of material off the heads of both air screws & domed the heads slightly ( that's the outer end which has the screw slot in it) and now there's just enough enough clearance to get the screws out when the carbs are both installed.
 
Due to the carb close proximity even if you can slacken the air screws you cannot get one of them out...

I think you mean the Premier pilot jets.
The pilot air screws are on the outside of each carb.
 
Thanks all. Is there a special tool that allows you to remove the nuts that hold the carbs to the manifold or must you remove the manifold with carbs attached?
 
Is there a special tool that allows you to remove the nuts that hold the carbs to the manifold or must you remove the manifold with carbs attached?

It's easier to remove the first carb with the manifold attached using a modified Allen key/wrench.
 
Thanks. one last question 3 rings on the pilot jet means a #17? 4 rings means #19? I've just removed the jets which have 3 rings. Once i Installed the carbs and tried to start after wetting the carbs with the plunger, I couldn't keep it running long enough to tune. I assume the jet is too small
 
In your experience fo a 68 commando what would be the appropriate size? Given my problem I was hoping that what I had was a #17 but looks like I have #19's. Coud be plugged up i suppose
 
In your experience fo a 68 commando what would be the appropriate size? Given my problem I was hoping that what I had was a #17 but looks like I have #19's. Coud be plugged up i suppose

Possibly, but did you allow enough warm-up time before trying to set the idle (and throttle stop) screws?

#17 is the standard size for a 750 (according to Amal) although some 750 owners have replaced them with #19.
 
I couldn't get it to run long enough to warm up. It seemed like it was just running long enough on what I flooded the carbs via the plunger with. I guess i'll give them a good cleaning and see what happens
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top