Aluminum forward engine mount.

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I thought I would start a new thread for the parts that I am making. Here are some photo'd before I weld it up. Over a pound lighter. It's a start. I am starting a list if anyone is interested in one. I have one spare at the moment. I am building them to the MK3 spec, for adjustable iso's. My next task will be the transmission cradle.



http://s1029.photobucket.com/albums/y35 ... d%20mount/
 
Neat level of upgrading a great design. Its hi vibration fatigue zone for Al but common run item. What is the alloy? Are you the welder, its over my level.
Will you polish or texture finish?

Jim Comstock cut hole in one plate to run his front linkage thru in most compact and leveraged placement I've seen yet.

Maybe thread a hole to put in a pin to trace out on something fixed to frame?
 
I'm the welder, I own my own welding business. I went with some 3/16 6060-T6511 aluminum. I think i'll leave it as is for the finish. I like the hole for the rod idea.
 
OK cool then you can also replace about every spacer with Al too, worth almost an extra hp less mass. Maybe a force brace. New Al battery holder and oil tank. Luggage rack and skid plate. Yokes too if bored.

I had choice of polished or bead blasted, I figured I could not keep anything shiny smooth so kept the dull texture which does hold road grime better but less bother to hose off back to start.
 
Oh it's better than that, check my other posts, oil in frame, gsxr donor forks and brakes, 40mm belt drive etc....
 
Nice going, there isn't much you can do to the front engine mount except adding a front link á la Jim Comstock or Hobot, but for the rear plates, you could do better than just tracing the old ones and make them beefier as well as adding some braces. Look at my plates (not Commando of course) there is quite a bit more strength I would think compared to the thin tracing of my first set. Mine were made from 1/4" plates, but 5/16" would have been better.

Aluminum forward engine mount.

Aluminum forward engine mount.


Jean
 
Got the forward mount welded up yesterday, turned out good. Now on to the transmission cradle.
 
Are you going to increase the size of the swing arm pivot tube at the ends to cut down on the amount that the cradle twists :?:
 
I'm using an aluminum monoshock swingarm from a yamaha enduro, and making my own pivot with needle bearings.
 
swooshdave said:
bwolfie said:
Got the forward mount welded up yesterday, turned out good. Now on to the transmission cradle.

Ahem.


Do you want some nice shiny aluminum parts too? I'm going to be making some copies when time permits. I'll have a forward mount available in about 2 weeks.

I'm also making clutch spring tools, i'll have 5 available next week. $25 shipped in the states.
 
bwolfie said:
swooshdave said:
bwolfie said:
Got the forward mount welded up yesterday, turned out good. Now on to the transmission cradle.

Ahem.


Do you want some nice shiny aluminum parts too? I'm going to be making some copies when time permits. I'll have a forward mount available in about 2 weeks.

I'm also making clutch spring tools, i'll have 5 available next week. $25 shipped in the states.

No, I wants pictures of the front engine mount. :mrgreen:
 
bwolfie said:
I'm using an aluminum monoshock swingarm from a yamaha enduro, and making my own pivot with needle bearings.

There was a recent discussion on what to use for swing arm pivots on a chassis design mailing list and the experts said plain bushings were better than any bearings since bearings can developp brinelling (the rollers or balls dig into the bearing shell).

Jean
 
Amen to bushes in short range hi load oscillation joint, any farm implement exam may educate. Swing arm striction is about a non issue compared to the loads moving it. There is no needle bearing speed to develop hydrodynamic oil layer like in a camshaft or rocker arm. Greased bronze bushes for my tractor & Commando.
If you check change needles and races out every so often, then no sweat if already got em.

Here a first grab URL of search on Needle Bearing in motorcycle swing arm. Hm

http://www.triumphrat.net/tiger-worksho ... aring.html
s a good job I stripped down the rear swing arm cause Ive found the needle roller bearing dropping too bits so it needs replacing does anyone know what the part number is & bearing size so I can price up from a bearing supplier, also any ideas how the get the bloody shell out of the swing arm its being a pig
 
Jeandr said:
Nice going, there isn't much you can do to the front engine mount except adding a front link á la Jim Comstock or Hobot, but for the rear plates, you could do better than just tracing the old ones and make them beefier as well as adding some braces. Look at my plates (not Commando of course) there is quite a bit more strength I would think compared to the thin tracing of my first set. Mine were made from 1/4" plates, but 5/16" would have been better.

Aluminum forward engine mount.

Aluminum forward engine mount.


Jean
I've been busy at work getting to know my new to me Finn-Power C-5 CNC punching machine. Today I started to program. My first project after hours will be to make new plates for my Commando powered P11 out off 1/4" T-6. No more tracing, drilling, and cutting for me :lol: I just have to remember how to draw in CAD now.
I could see doing production runs of plates in the future if there is demand.

Will
 
Part of the appeal of slightly modified Commandos is farm equipment technology
spanking moderns where it matter in character and handling bliss.

A note of caution, Al is not good at hi stress vibration or pounding or rubbing impacts. Ms Peel's 6061 T6 cradle is 5/16" thick and her bolts are 7/16" holes.
Hope its over kill but lower front of cradle is known failure point to handle.
Repairs usually add a double thickness up there. Your mileage may vary.
 
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