Alton starter, Norton switchgear issue. (2020)

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I have an Alton starter fitted for 3 years. I have used the spare button for the starter and a month or so ago It started to develop flat battery type symptoms. Also there was a delay from pressing button till it turned the motor.
I fitted a new battery but nothing changed.
I went through the wiring with a fine tooth comb and changed it to the horn switch. Mostly it works fine but yesterday halfway through a 300 mile ride it did the same. It was exactly as if the battery was not charging.
Kicked the bike to start no problem
After a lunch break the starter worked fine.
If I jump the starter solenoid positive (input) directly to the battery I have no issues.
I’m tempted to buy new switchgear but wondered what people’s thoughts were before another expense.
I’ve thoroughly cleaned the switchgear out.
 
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Concur with K! It could have been the Lucas switch but since you've cleaned that/checked the wiring, that shouldn't be the problem. FWIW, my Alton has been using the Norton "spare" button since I installed the Alton in 12 so the switch itself is perfectly capable if it is in good condition and been cleaned in the last 20 years or so! ;)

Just read your added post - if you are bypassing the Lucas switch, then it clearly IS the switch or the wiring/connections associated with it.
 
Thanks Mike, i have bought an aftermarket switch to try temporarily but the wires are so thin I’m not sure about using it! Might just bite the bullet and buy the switchgear.
 
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The Alton kit comes with a relay, item 12 in the "kit parts" layout in the installation manual. Presumably that is what is being referred to as a solenoid?
 
Yes, confused me, if you google starter relay most pictures that come up are actually the solenoid.
Might try a relay but don’t really know what to look for.
 
A solenoid is a relay, its just the specialisation to carry the high current for a starter means it is a particular type of relay and hence the different name in an automotive application. If you want an alternative that is recommended for bikes where the original solenoid is not up to the job then go for the Yamaha 150A solenoid/relay but beware Chinese knock offs labelled as 150A but not capable of 150A.


When the stock (50 Amp) solenoid failed on my 2001-built Futura after trying to start the bike on a less than fully charged battery, I replaced it with the 150 Amp Aprilia part – Part No 8112927. The stock one looks like the one in the picture, while the replacement doesn’t have the all enclosing rubber boot.

It’s actually a Hitachi item with the serial number MS5D – 191 and is also used by several other bike manufacturers at a cheaper price than what Aprilia want for it. The Yamaha part is available under part number 3UF-81940-00-00.
 
"If I jump the starter solenoid positive (input) directly to the battery I have no issues".

Peter, do you mean the battery to the starter side of the solenoid? If so what happens if you use something hefty to short the two contacts on it?

The only issue I've had with my Alton was the low current wire from the handlebar switch broke off at the solenoid. Luckily there was enough for me to solder it back on then I used some silicone or Araldite to hold the wire. I would check that and the ground connection. If they are all good then it sounds like you need a new Solenoid.

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Probably not made myself clear. The issue is not the solenoid as it works perfectly when I by pass the switch by touching the small black lead used to connect to switch directly to the battery. I suspect it’s the switch so will either try an intermediate relay or change the switchgear.
 
Anybody know how much current the Alton starter solenoid coil takes? The handlebar switches should be capable of a couple amps if the wiring is sound. Having both the spare switch and the horn switch fail is not normal.
 
Anybody know how much current the Alton starter solenoid coil takes? The handlebar switches should be capable of a couple amps if the wiring is sound. Having both the spare switch and the horn switch fail is not normal.
Can't be very much. I'm using the standard Lucas switch with zero issues.

Peter, maybe you have a poor connection to the handlebar switch ?
 
Peter, maybe you have a poor connection to the handlebar switch ?
Maybe a loose connection under the tank at the white wire that feeds both switch clusters, as he said he repurposed the horn button which is on the other switch cluster.
 
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Though it wouldn't explain why the horn button worked for a while and now doesn't.
 
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