Alternators for Commando 850

In the process of restoring a 74 (Mfg date 9/73) Mk11 Commando 850. Plan to install a Pazon PA2, and a 1 phase 12V 200W regulator. I have the original Lucas 2 wire stator #47205A, and a orignal Rotor 54212006, which I have planned to use. Scratching my head on who actually made the solid state regulator (JRC part# 17-109A on box). It appears to be a copy with no markings on the actual part.

Matching it up to others I do believe it is a 1 phase 12V 200W. From the heat sink configuration looks like a Sparx, or a Sparx clone.

I do not plan to convert to electric start. Will the original Lucas 130W stator and rotor be OK in this setup ?
Have a ton of money tied up already in this restoration, not sure if up grading stator and rotor is necessary.
Appreciate your help, thanks

I do not know if the 130watt stator will stress any internal circuit with in the 200W regulator or not. Usually things like this do better when matched up for loads. I do know that a 180watt stator will burn out a 130watt regulator.

Other than being a little over kill on the regulator, you might be just fine. But if it were me, it would be well worth the expense to get the 16amp/180watt stator and feel good about using your lights all the time.

Probably not necessary to upgrade the rotor and stator. The regulator looks like a PODtronics. Should be good.

The 200W regulator will work just fine with a lower output alternator.

I've got what appears to be the same regulator teamed up with a 150 watt Alton on the Vincent. The Alton is rated at 150 watts, but that must be at about 100 mph. In reality it puts out about 110 watts at highway speed.
My regulator is a 200 watt single phase PODtronics. This combo has worked well for several years now.

Glen

looks like a Wassell:
http://www.charenteclassic.com/#/chargi ... 4560215452
4th item down

I think they (Sparx, Wassell) are all clones of the POD. I think Bob Kizer (the pin man) was the designer. Don't know if the clones are copies or a rebranding.

It appears that the voltage regulator is a SPARX unit marketed by JRC Engineering.

JRC - SPARX Products
Broken link removed

JRC Home Page
http://www.jrceng.com/

That voltage regulator will work fine with your stock alternator.

Peter Joe

Hi AZScott.
Re your: "...Will the original Lucas 130W stator and rotor be OK in this setup?...".

It is a supply vs demand question. If the system supplies 130W (at best) then total current draw needs to be less.
Ignition demand is most critical then lighting. If the headlight draws more than 130W (as my halogen did with hi & low both on then the ignition would die). I now use a LED 'globes' to reduce demand e.g. headlight, indicators, tail and brake lights so almost all of the juice is available for spark. The rectifier/regulator is a three phase unit (two of the yellow wires joined) so I can uprate the stator if ever necessary.
Ta.

I run the original single phase stator on my '74, zener and rectifier. H4 halogen 45W lamp ( on at ALL times ) and Boyer.
Battery (9AH AGM) stays topped up with no problem, 24,000 miles. No reason to believe your setup won't do the same.

Will work with no problems. I believe that the dipped and full beam on together, when full beam is selected, is a MK3 issue so you should be fine in that respect. The other worthwhile mod is to ensure that you connect the regulator/rectifier directly to the alternator ensuring that any other connections on route are left out, ie the battery warning assimulator unit and the zener/s. Not sure on the early 850, but on the MK3 the alternator connects to them all as well as the old solid state rectifier. I removed them from circuit, connected directly to the rectifier/regulator, insulated the unused terminals and fitted a Battery Status Monitor on the output side of the ignition switch so it is not on all the time. The voltage measured at the battery is far higher than the old system with a little voltage loss across the old ignition switch, the BSM still illuminates saying all is well when under way, but glows a little when the revs drop at night with lights on.

The BSM can be bought cheaply and in my opinion is a worthwhile upgrade over the old warning systems.

Madnorton said:

Will work with no problems.

Click to expand...

+1 I have run the Podtronics on mine with both stock and high-output single-phase (200W) stator. I put blade connectors on mine so that it would install in the harness directly in place of the stock rectifier, and then merely unplugged the Zener (taken care of inside the new rectifier/regulator). You can see it here: uprated-charging-system-t19016-45.html

Nathan