Alternator rotors and spacer
- Thread starter pierodn
- Start date
- Status
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hi pierodn.
Recess toward sprocket.
Full face against rotor centre.
Ta.
Recess toward sprocket.
Full face against rotor centre.
Ta.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hi pierodn.
To ensure that the force is applied to the face of the sprocket without risk of contact with shaft taper (is my guess).
Perhaps it is a carry-over from an earlier model prior to the triplex chain being introduced.
Ta.
To ensure that the force is applied to the face of the sprocket without risk of contact with shaft taper (is my guess).
Perhaps it is a carry-over from an earlier model prior to the triplex chain being introduced.
Ta.
pierodn said:
The crank sprocket goes slight beyond the shoulder on the taper of the crank. The recess on the spacer will encapsulate this shoulder and allow the rotor nut to apply clamping force to the sprocket and its taper.
Rotor not will press against the rotor, rotor against the spacer, spacer against the sprocket over the shoulder.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,090
However, according to the factory manual, Section C34, 21:
http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Repai ... mmando.pdf
"Assemble the shims on the crankshaft over the engine sprocket, followed by the spacing collar with the recess outwards"
Clymer and Haynes also say recess to the outside.
http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Repai ... mmando.pdf
"Assemble the shims on the crankshaft over the engine sprocket, followed by the spacing collar with the recess outwards"
Clymer and Haynes also say recess to the outside.
Hi Les,
Thank you.
I mean and i think now that you said that the shims go against the sprocket that the recesse against the rotor needs to untouch the steel side of the rotor and to go agsinst the alu side only.
Please, simerging about the two rotors?
Ciao
Piero
Thank you.
I mean and i think now that you said that the shims go against the sprocket that the recesse against the rotor needs to untouch the steel side of the rotor and to go agsinst the alu side only.
Please, simerging about the two rotors?
Ciao
Piero
I followed the original manual (recess outwards), and it is working perfect.
Would swear it was not even possible the other way around on my MK2. The woodruff key would not completely seat in the crankshaft that way. I did not try for the possibility to mount the rotor with the key sticking out a little in the front. Might have worked also.
Don't know if that is the original function for the recess, but it could. Might be cheaper to fabricate than a keyway for the spacer.
Would swear it was not even possible the other way around on my MK2. The woodruff key would not completely seat in the crankshaft that way. I did not try for the possibility to mount the rotor with the key sticking out a little in the front. Might have worked also.
Don't know if that is the original function for the recess, but it could. Might be cheaper to fabricate than a keyway for the spacer.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Oh dear.
Now I will have to pull the primary apart to have another look.
Pierodn - you had better go by the book.
Both rotors should be ok.
Ta.
Now I will have to pull the primary apart to have another look.
Pierodn - you had better go by the book.
Both rotors should be ok.
Ta.
N
nortonspeed
Guest
Use the rotor on the first picture (serial number .....2298) because the rotor on the second picture (serial number ....2006) tends to explode. The later rotors have a welded centre and will not come apart.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,090
pierodn said:
That's what the "books" say. Shims first, then spacer.
From the Haynes manual:
pierodn said:
I don't think I can give you an answer to that.
pierodn said:
Simerging? If you are asking which rotor to use then I would say the newest one (54202298)
Attachments
Last edited:
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hi LAB.
I don't use shims so that may explain rationale for spacer reversal.
I'll have a look to check.
Does the spacer in your book press against the rotor alloy?
Ta.
I don't use shims so that may explain rationale for spacer reversal.
I'll have a look to check.
Does the spacer in your book press against the rotor alloy?
Ta.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
In my 2 combats I had to face the recess towards engine to straddle the woodruff key which stuck our a bit beyond the rotor once rotor spaced to center in stator. I could not assemble my 2 Combat with the flat against the rotor - so which is correct the maual or real life facts? There are other errors in the manuals, oil tank hose route shown fatally reveresed for another one. On yeah do Not mix up-confuse the very similar looking clutch spacer part. If there is enough threads sticking out one can put this recessed spacer in backwards and still get away with it - if crank end nut stays on.
My spacer is recessed on both sides. One side to to cover the end of the crank that sticks out (maybe 1mm or so) from the sprocket, and the other (with smaller inner diameter that would not work if reversed) to allow for the rotor key. What's up with that, LAB?
nortonspeed said:
How can you tell? I heard welded ones had a "W" stamped on them. I think I had to replace the original one that came with my '73 850 because I could wiggle it on its hub, but if I did it was 18 or 19 years ago and my memory is a little fuzzy. I think the welded rotors were introduced late during Commando production.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,090
ewgoforth said:
"Welded" rotors appear to be something of a myth:
https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/how-bad-is-it.19060/page-3#post-285005
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthrea ... Post582074
http://www.oldbritts.com/11_068100.html
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2009
- Messages
- 5,550
It's got to be about clearing the Woodruff key ,right ?
- Status
