Alternator Installation

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swooshdave

swooshdave

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Can someone help me with installing this correctly? Do I have the right parts? Am I missing something?

Alternator Installation

Alternator Installation


What is the right order of the parts? I don't have anything behind the rotor. Is there a washer? Should the rotor be flush with the stator?

Rotor fits absolutely perfectly on the crankshaft.
 
swooshdave said:
Can someone help me with installing this correctly? Do I have the right parts? Am I missing something?

Alternator Installation

Alternator Installation


What is the right order of the parts? I don't have anything behind the rotor. Is there a washer? Should the rotor be flush with the stator?

Rotor fits absolutely perfectly on the crankshaft.
Click to expand...

Umm not sure but shouldn't there be a sprocket behind the rotor :) I am taking your statement of nothing behind the rotor literraly which you hopefully do not mean, also a rotor spacer part No:060402 and as required rotor alignment shims Part No's :060664/060665 as required :) and the rotor stepped nut locates inside the rotor.It should be almost flush and dont't forget to check the clearance between rotor and stator with a feeler gauge maybe 10 thou all the way around.
 
Swooshdave, Look at this pic. You'll see rotor is bored to accept sleeved nut and sits well out from thread. Those spacers go under the stator, pushing it further outwards.
Alternator Installation
 
Dave,
I think there are a couple of things wrong here. First it looks like you do not have the shim and spacer under the rotor (between the drive sprocket and the rotor). That spaces the rotor farther out on the crank shaft. The end of the crankshaft should be well sunk in the rotor. Then the stator spacers should be under the stator studs. The last picture is what it should look like.

Dave
69S
 
I think he's spoofing us.

Please, Dave, install the primary system FIRST, THEN the alternator.
 
The rotor will ride against large spacer between the rotor and the sprocket. There are also shims to bring rotor to a better operating distant to the stator. The 1/2" spacers go behind the stator at the the 3 mount points.
I hope you don't take this too wrong, but are you really that new to this stuff. At least 3 differant workshop manuals should be standard.
Too much handholding. Ya know, when you are done with this and anything is wrong, you will be the only one who is not responsable. You will also be inclined to hand over any successes. Just kidding! :p :p :p
 
grandpaul said:
I think he's spoofing us.

Please, Dave, install the primary system FIRST, THEN the alternator.
Click to expand...

I'm not. I just wanted to getting this sorted and see what I was missing and if it fit up correctly.

Yes, I know the primary needs to go on first, but it ain't here yet!

I think I have it now. Stay tuned for an update. Thanks!
 
It's impossible to sort without the sprocket. I don't know about newer ones but my rotor is spaced away from the sprocket about 1/2" by a shim and a shouldered spacer.

Alternator Installation


Dave
69S
 
I didn't realize that the rotor actually hung out over the threads. WIth that little bit of information it makes a lot more sense.
 
Alternator Installation

And now you can see why I was questioning the assembly of the alternator. Considering the parts I have you'd wonder too.

Alternator Installation

Nut OD

Alternator Installation

Rotor ID

Alternator Installation

Crank OD

Rotor fits nicely on crank, so that's good. Rumor has it that the RGM belt kit comes with a rotor nut so we'll see if it fits better. 8)

Of course the belt kit will space the rotor out correctly.
 
I guess the Sparx rotor may be at fault if the previous rotor fitted OK with that rotor nut?
 
Hope you get a smaller rotor nut with that kit. If not maybe someone could turn it down?
 
plj850 said:
I guess the Sparx rotor may be at fault if the previous rotor fitted OK with that rotor nut?
Click to expand...

Look at the measurements, no sure how you can blame the Sparx. :roll:

The nut shoulder should be .75 but it's too big.
 
When I put my '75 together with the Sparx the rotor fit on the crank, and, separately the sleeved nut would thread down on the crank completely; additionally the sleeved nut would drop into the rotor, when it was off the crank. During assembly the sleeved nut would NOT tighten, but would bind about 1/2 way to its goal. I measured everything and found that the Sparx rotor's bore was done at a very slight angle. I was able to solve this problem with lapping compound. In reading more recent posts it is apparent that the Chinese manufacturer took many liberties with the spec, and that the US importer let this pass. I'd love to know who is importing the Sparx so that I could speak with them (please pass this on and I'll get right on it, if you know).---I have a Skype phone so it costs me peanuts to call anyplace on earth.

I purchased another Sparx for my '72 Fastback build (do I have a choice if I want more watts?) and already I see a problem, the key way in the rotor is not deep enough to acomodate the stock key height. I will solve this problem by fitting the key or by deepening the key way...a lot like fitting Andover Norton OE (?) parts :roll:

In fairness to the opium den manufacturers and the designers the system, once fitted, works very well.

SwooshDave be prepare to suffer for your choice of 3 phase power, but be advised that your choice is, ultimately, a good one.

RS
 
RoadScholar said:
SwooshDave be prepare to suffer for your choice of 3 phase power, but be advised that your choice is, ultimately, a good one.

RS
Click to expand...

Don't you mean single phase?
 
RoadScholar said:
When I put my '75 together with the Sparx the rotor fit on the crank, and, separately the sleeved nut would thread down on the crank completely; additionally the sleeved nut would drop into the rotor, when it was off the crank. During assembly the sleeved nut would NOT tighten, but would bind about 1/2 way to its goal. I measured everything and found that the Sparx rotor's bore was done at a very slight angle. I was able to solve this problem with lapping compound. In reading more recent posts it is apparent that the Chinese manufacturer took many liberties with the spec, and that the US importer let this pass. I'd love to know who is importing the Sparx so that I could speak with them (please pass this on and I'll get right on it, if you know).---I have a Skype phone so it costs me peanuts to call anyplace on earth.

I purchased another Sparx for my '72 Fastback build (do I have a choice if I want more watts?) and already I see a problem, the key way in the rotor is not deep enough to acomodate the stock key height. I will solve this problem by fitting the key or by deepening the key way...a lot like fitting Andover Norton OE (?) parts :roll:

In fairness to the opium den manufacturers and the designers the system, once fitted, works very well.

SwooshDave be prepare to suffer for your choice of 3 phase power, but be advised that your choice is, ultimately, a good one.

RS
Click to expand...

Its pretty important that the rotor is a correct fit since you do not want the clearance between the rotor and stator to close uo or your stator will be ripped off its mountings and as has been pointed out elsewhere this will happen very quickly and the all you will see is the alternator wires dissapear into the the primary chaincase..and mayhem will ensue :-(
 
SwooshDAve,
I do mean 3 phase, that is what the Sparx is, the original Lucas is 2 phase.

RonL,
Thanks for the information, my next Norton will have one of the choices you mentioned; if you need a break I'll give you the address of the rock I live under...

RS
 
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