Aftermarket parts that work

I am having good results using RGM relined high friction TLS brake shoes (06-0828RL). I don't know how long they will last but they are much better than the stock shoes or the wooden feeling original disk brakes. And, luckily, they don't have to be smoking hot to work.

Greg

I'll second that. A big improvement for not too much $$$. Nice when something works.

Am I missing something here? Isn't the 06-0828RL for the "8" single leader front on an exchange basis only"? Or are you fellas referring to the GF1091 (front) and 063417 (rear) which appear to be Fedoro shoes? I haven't queried Roger about this yet.

What does anyone think about the importance of the sleeve for the front brake plate/spindle like OB does?

Curious because I'm thinking about working on my drum brakes for better performance before April and May rolls around.

Dave
69S

Dave,

These are the ones that I bought:

http://www.commandospecialties.com/Prod ... ProdID=165

The bag they were in was labled RGM. I don't have the stiffening plate mod, or the spindle mod. Maybe I'll get around to them some day. I arced these shoes, with stick on sandpaper to the drum (seems like 180 grit, don't remember). Removed very little material. This method has worked for me on numerous bikes for years. Just to make sure there aren't any high spots, and that the lining makes the most contact it can with the drum. The stopping with this setup is way better than the previous EMGO shoes that I had. Like mentioned before, I don't know how long they last, but it's the best bang for the buck on a Norton twin leader.

don w

Brithit said:

Dave,

These are the ones that I bought:

http://www.commandospecialties.com/Prod ... ProdID=165

The bag they were in was labled RGM. I don't have the stiffening plate mod, or the spindle mod. Maybe I'll get around to them some day. I arced these shoes, with stick on sandpaper to the drum (seems like 180 grit, don't remember). Removed very little material. This method has worked for me on numerous bikes for years. Just to make sure there aren't any high spots, and that the lining makes the most contact it can with the drum. The stopping with this setup is way better than the previous EMGO shoes that I had. Like mentioned before, I don't know how long they last, but it's the best bang for the buck on a Norton twin leader.

don w

Click to expand...

Is this how everyone arcs the shoes? It seems like if you did this every time you changed the pads it would add premature wear to your drum giving you less and less stopping power each time. I thought most people do the opposite- take some off the shoes to match the drum.

pelican said:

Brithit said:

Dave,

These are the ones that I bought:

http://www.commandospecialties.com/Prod ... ProdID=165

The bag they were in was labled RGM. I don't have the stiffening plate mod, or the spindle mod. Maybe I'll get around to them some day. I arced these shoes, with stick on sandpaper to the drum (seems like 180 grit, don't remember). Removed very little material. This method has worked for me on numerous bikes for years. Just to make sure there aren't any high spots, and that the lining makes the most contact it can with the drum. The stopping with this setup is way better than the previous EMGO shoes that I had. Like mentioned before, I don't know how long they last, but it's the best bang for the buck on a Norton twin leader.

don w

Click to expand...

Is this how everyone arcs the shoes? It seems like if you did this every time you changed the pads it would add premature wear to your drum giving you less and less stopping power each time. I thought most people do the opposite- take some off the shoes to match the drum.

Click to expand...

I think that it is meant to read as "stuck sandpaper to the drum and removed very little from the shoes".

oh ok, I read it wrong

The way to get drum brakes that work very well indeed, is to get new over-size high performance friction material bonded or riveted to an old pair of shoes.

Then very accurately measure the exact diameter of the brake drum, fit the shoes to brake plate, chuck the assembled brake plate in a lathe, and machine the shoes to the exact dimensions of your brake drum.

Add a new heavy duty cable if its a front brake, and you will then have a brake which works an awful lot better than anything sold as an "upgrade" part.

What I was referring to was a 3M stick on type of paper, the long ones used on sanding boards used in body shops. You can stick it to the drum, all the way around , make sure it doesn't have any gaps or overlaps on it. Then, put in the assembled brake plate, gently expand the shoes and rub them back and forth. The sandpaper is very thin, and you're not taking off much material at all. This is way better than just dropping in new shoes and hoping for the best like a lot of folks do. Of course, you can send your drum and shoes off to a brake shop to have arced. You could just send the plate with a very accurate measurement of your drum. With the results I get with this method on my Commando, I'm not wanting in the braking department.

After I get my RGM stainless kit for the head and cylinder installed, the next thing will be to get the RGM shoes and arc them with the sandpaper method. I've still got my original shoes. I may eventually get the brake stiffening kit too, if the front shoes are not up to expectation.

I remember always having to plan way ahead for stopping and I don't want to do that any more.

Dave
69S