Aerosol paint how many layers how many cans?

Hi

I want to paint in red the tank and side panels of my currently black 1970 Roadster. Advisers tell me that House of Kolor Kandy Apple Red is a good match for the original.

I wrote to House of Kolor asking how many cans I need. They sell cans in 400ml.

They say I need three to five coats each of:

Grey Primer
Orian Silver
Then the top coat of Kandy Apple Red.

They say I need 3 cans of each.

Is this a bit much? Especially for the silver colour in between coats?

thanks

Have a read through this..

why-paint-doing-this-t18930.html

Thanks olChris,

I had a look through you rlink. Dont know if it answers my question. I have a metal tank. I need to know if I really need 9 cans of paint (as suggested by the supplier) to paint one tank and two panels. Also if I need to make 3 - 5 coats of silver before I spray the red.

I have spray painted with rattle cans before and got good and long lasting results. But always in black, now I am trying to get near to the original red.

Don't know why you would need so much silver, but I'm no expert. However, if you're going to do this, I'd get enough of each to make sure you can finish the job with cans all from the same batch. I've noticed they are not always the same color. I've found with rattle cans just a few coats of color will usually do if the undercoat is even. What you may want to do when finished with the red is either take it to a pro or get some 2 pack and cover it all with clear, the more coats you put on, the shinier it gets, but usually you'll have to sand with say 2000 between coats and on final coat buff. The spray cans won't hold up to any fuel.

my 2 cents.

Top Coat of CLEAR ! This way you should have a can of each left over . :mrgreen:

Id try two of Ea . . depends on how smooth the sucker is . Block sanding between coats , or second coats . At Primer stage . Its ALL in the PREP .

You could take a look at an old thread I did about my spray-can paint job. "Rattle Can Paint Job" is what it was called. I did end up putting the "2-pack" epoxy clear over the whole thing and really like how it all turned out. Pay particular attention to the warnings about not breathing the epoxy 2 part clear!! I found out that the danger is that your liver makes cyanide out of it in an attempt to get it out of your system. :!: This still does not really answer your question about how much paint but as others have said, better to have too much than to run out!

Matt Spencer said:

Top Coat of CLEAR ! This way you should have a can of each left over . :mrgreen:

Id try two of Ea . . depends on how smooth the sucker is . Block sanding between coats , or second coats . At Primer stage . Its ALL in the PREP .

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+1 If you absolutely have to use aerosols - a good quality clear over the candy will stop all that work going to waste.
I don't see any advantage to high build silver either - 2 cans would be more than enough.

motorson said:

I did end up putting the "2-pack" epoxy clear over the whole thing and really like how it all turned out.

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+1 Two part epoxy clear over rattle can paint can work very well because the epoxy clear can be finished to a professional quality by color sanding and polishing. It also protects the base paint and is not damaged by fuel.

Candy apple paint with spray cans is difficult to do because of the small spray pattern with cans. The silver base coat is what gives the candy it's depth and the color coat is transparent. Any imperfection in the base coat will stick out like a sore thumb. Most common with spray cans is blotches created by overlap of the small spray pattern due to build up and difficulty getting an even coat. The metallic in the base coat will be darker and lighter (blotches). Metallics need to have controlled drying speed (reducer specific for temp and humidity) and a fairly wide spray fan to get even coating. I wouldn't recommend candy apple using spray cans.

It is a lot of money to spend on spray cans which will turn out less than ideal no matter what. If you are good at sanding and filling it may pay to just do the bodywork and primer and let a real shop do the rest. My local painter did my orange tank for $250 complete. I supplied the Norton decals from Old Britts and they cleared over it all. They would have done the Norton logo in paint for the same price.

You might also take a look and try the Red Duplicolor MetalSpecks. No undercoat needed other than primer and probably 3 cans will do the tank and panels, $10 ea. I was pleased with the MetalSpecks blue for the price.

Unless these are 2 part paints, don't waste your time. Do it right or do it over. A non-catalized paint just won't hold up to gas and the elements as well. And for that much HOK type paint, you will have a lot of money into it for those spray cans.

Get your self a small compressor and an HVLP gun from HF. Buy proper 2 part paints and shoot it your self. You will get superior results and durability. Spray can nozzles just don't work as well, period.

This is a Norton. If it were a 10 year old Honda I wouldn't sweat it, but your Norton deserves better.

batrider said:

It is a lot of money to spend on spray cans which will turn out less than ideal no matter what. If you are good at sanding and filling it may pay to just do the bodywork and primer and let a real shop do the rest. My local painter did my orange tank for $250 complete. I supplied the Norton decals from Old Britts and they cleared over it all. They would have done the Norton logo in paint for the same price.

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+1 I could'nt agree mroe..

lrutt said:

Unless these are 2 part paints, don't waste your time. Do it right or do it over. A non-catalized paint just won't hold up to gas and the elements as well. And for that much HOK type paint, you will have a lot of money into it for those spray cans.

Get your self a small compressor and an HVLP gun from HF. Buy proper 2 part paints and shoot it your self. You will get superior results and durability. Spray can nozzles just don't work as well, period.

This is a Norton. If it were a 10 year old Honda I wouldn't sweat it, but your Norton deserves better.

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+1

motorson said:

Here is my Red tank. The red isn't quite as red in the photos as it is in real life. I would have preferred a deeper red but went with what Duplicolor had in acrylic enamal. I learned an aweful lot but still have some questions about how to get it to come out better. Here it is:

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That is how my rattle can paint job came out. It looks even better now with the "2 pack" clear over it.
Just can't allow too much misinformation about spray cans now can I?
Cheers, Dan.

The critical factor in your paint is the "2 Pack" clear.

Yes, you put a proper top coat on it. that was part of my point.

And yes, you could put paint on with a brush, but enough wet sanding and rubbing compound and it would look damned nice. Even a cheapo HF gun will put paint on better than any spray can nozzle. Not to mention more control over volume, pattern, consistent air pressure.

Your rattle can job looks good, and good for you for putting a good top coat on though.

Excuse my ignorance as I thought 2 pack clear wouldn't be compatible with rattle can paint. Obviously not. Looks great. So, was that rattle can enamel, laquer, acrylic laquer...etc??? :shock:

Yes all the best jobs have lots of smoothing out work between coats though the last clear coat matters the most. Do give extra attention around the filler.

I totally agree with everybody about the two part paints being better. I used "2 pack" spray can paint and put both $15 cans on just one tank and two side covers. (they are expensive but hold a lot of paint) The pictures posted are before the 2pack though. Now the clear is even deeper. Spray can nozzles vary between brands. Duplicolor uses the best sort of nozzle which are blue with a steel pin going down the middle. They fan the paint out nicely and the "fan" pattern can be turned around by grabbing the little nozzle with your fingernails and twisting it. I used Duplicolor because I thought I would get a good match each time I bought paint and I was under the impression that they only sold good paint. The color holds true for the most part but their paint is terrible at holding up to solvents such as gasoline. The Duplicolor I used is acrylic enamel. Now for small black parts I use engine enamel or exhaust paint. BBQ paint is also good at becoming hard if you can find a true black that has the right gloss.

I also thought that the 2 part paints such as "Emron" were dangerous because they would stick to your lungs but I found out from an aviation paint expert that the chemicals in the "2 pack" become cyanide when your liver tries to get them out of your body! How is that for a cruel blow below the belt? Your liver is trying to save you and instead makes something even more deadly to you. So, be super careful working at home. The "hold your breath" method will work but super discipline is required. I did mine in a proper paint booth with a forced air breathing mask.

Cheers, Dan.

Just for the laugh

http://vitaminl.tv/video/3521?ref=fpfv