Advice on replacement rims

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mark99 said:
Hi CanukNortonNut

If you where going all different on the rim width, why didn't you get an 18 for the rear?
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Hi Mark
I like the Avon AM-26 as a tire for the Commando and by sticking with the 19" profile both front and back, I then use only one tire when the rubber wears out. Its always the back that wears the most.
As Fullauto pointed out to me, when the rear tire has worn out, you switch the front tire to the back rim and place the new tire onto the front rim. You mix match rim sizes and you don't have this as an option.
Regards,
Tom
CNN
 
Brooking 850 said:
Appreciate it , if you can't paste here, send your pic's to neptechvtu@yahoo.com.au
Regards Mike
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Ok Mike
I took some pick and hope they show up. Let me introduce my 74 Interstate. Choo Choo Moma.
Advice on replacement rims


Starboard side
Advice on replacement rims


Port side
Advice on replacement rims


front wheel. Yes its a WM4

Advice on replacement rims

rear wheel

Advice on replacement rims

rear shot looking down chain guard to swing arm.

Advice on replacement rims

swing arm shot on timing side.


Advice on replacement rims

Advice on replacement rims

gap at front wheel slider attachment and fender support.
Cheers
CNN
 
+1 on the thanks for photos......I'd seen fullautos post before about WM4's front and rear and filed it away in my brain for my wishlist of stuff for my bike. I really like the idea of moving the front tire to the rear when the rear tire wears out and putting the new one on the front. Keeps the fresh rubber up front.
 
Advice on replacement rims


Nice looking series lorry
The tyres fit the right size alot better,they don't peak in the middle, and roll over at the edge, can you guys just go down to the shop and buy these over the counter?, just doesn't happen like that out here
 
I liked 110 both ends for rotating tires and may get wider rims at some point with fullauto comment in mind. Btw the black Cdo should not have the tube stem retainer screwed down close to the rim, should be up against the stem cap.
 
Here is something I did not know...why would you want the retainer not screwed down to the rim? It's how I have been doing mine since I climbed on my first bike.

CNN, it would be real interesting for the sake of science and all to take a cardboard cutout of your profile and compare it to the profile of the AM26 tires on my WM2 rims. Somewhere in my stuff I have a profile gauge like the one in this link:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... reId=10051

I would be happy to make a cut out of my profile and send it too you but I am guessing it would tell more to hold your profile against my tire.

Russ
 
rvich said:
Here is something I did not know...why would you want the retainer not screwed down to the rim? It's how I have been doing mine since I climbed on my first bike.
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Now, I am curious too!
I've always screwed them down to the rim.


EDIT:
I just googled it and the logic seems to be that not tightening down the retaining nut allows the stem to move as the tire flexes.
I use my rim lock, snug down the nut and have never had an issue with tearing a valve stem from the tube because of a tire slipping on the rim.
I can only guess that someone somewhere has had this occur and surmised that loosening the retaining nut is a fix for the issue.
 
rvich said:
Here is something I did not know...why would you want the retainer not screwed down to the rim? It's how I have been doing mine since I climbed on my first bike.

CNN, it would be real interesting for the sake of science and all to take a cardboard cutout of your profile and compare it to the profile of the AM26 tires on my WM2 rims. Somewhere in my stuff I have a profile gauge like the one in this link:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... reId=10051

I would be happy to make a cut out of my profile and send it too you but I am guessing it would tell more to hold your profile against my tire.

Russ
Click to expand...
Russ
I can do that as I have one of those things.
Here are two profiles for comparison. 74 interstate with Avon AM26 19” 100/90 and 72 Combat with Avon Super Venom AM18 19” 100/90. The 74 has about 3000 miles of wear on the front tire. Combat has no mileage on SV. Both are fronts. Graph paper is ¼”
Advice on replacement rims



Regards
Tom
CNN
 
Not screwing down the valve stem retaining nut all the way probably provides a margin of safety if the tube looses air, as in flat. Tearing a valve stem from the tube cost me about six hours on a trip years ago. Back in the day, there were replacement hot vulcanizing valve stems, but my tube was too far gone for that fix. Needed a new tube. Carrying a spare tube is pretty much mandatory for me, now.
 
Jim C reveals the real reasons, one not to have such dramatic let good on slow leak and two not to have a huge un-patchable hole from stem tear out on a simple nail hole flat. On my second ride on Trixie last spring just as I pulled off hwy onto secondary road and straightened up I felt engine vibes show up dramatically for .5 sec at 40 mph as stem pulled out of slow leak and tire collapsed. Then smoothed out again but got rather squirrely. In this case the stem cap snagged in rim instead of stem pulling cleanly inside. Felt nothing ahead of time and if it'd pulled out while in sharp lean on decrease radii turn off I'd of crashed by dramatic Hinge Upset down the rocky slope.

Canuk, very interesting seeing the profiles like that. Makes me glad I've kept the WM2 and WM3 for the excessive leans Peel likes to do. Likely better with a blunter profile for off road tractionm so the enduro bikers says, especially on rear tires - but not necessarily on pavement power lean *extremes*. I base this on my testing with up to 170 balloon tire on 6" wide wheel. Peel main purpose it to test this in technical track times.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Advice on replacement rims



Regards
Tom
CNN
Click to expand...


Thanks for taking the time to do that. It makes it a lot easier to discuss things like contact patch when you can see the difference between the two.

Russ
 
Commandos look 'right' with 19" wheels, has anyone investigated the use of aftermarket 19" MX wheels?
 
OK, so if those hubs are symmetrical, a brake disc could replace that sprocket for use on the front, & the WM 3/2.15 rim width might allow a better tyre profile too.
Does a belt primary compensate for no cush drive in the clutch?
 
J.A.W. said:
OK, so if those hubs are symmetrical, a brake disc could replace that sprocket for use on the front, & the WM 3/2.15 rim width might allow a better tyre profile too.
Does a belt primary compensate for no cush drive in the clutch?
Click to expand...

I hate to mention this again but these tyres are made for 2.5 inch rims. That will give the tyres the correct profile. Try it. You'll like it.
 
Fullauto said:
J.A.W. said:
OK, so if those hubs are symmetrical, a brake disc could replace that sprocket for use on the front, & the WM 3/2.15 rim width might allow a better tyre profile too.
Does a belt primary compensate for no cush drive in the clutch?
Click to expand...

I hate to mention this again but these tyres are made for 2.5 inch rims. That will give the tyres the correct profile. Try it. You'll like it.
Click to expand...

I think the above diagram is pretty good at illustrating the difference. However, I think JAW was referring to Hobots post. Some threads tangle more than others, must be natural fiber.

Russ
 
J.A.W. said:
Does a belt primary compensate for no cush drive in the clutch?
Click to expand...

Nope, the belt primary does not provide any cushion as the belts themselves don't give.
 
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