A really big motor

J.A.W. said:

Egg analogy? hard boiled I trust, [ now you are... scaring me]... but thanks I wanted a rational sum to compare with other options, it still seems a better deal than risking blowing an old `un up, waiting for a new S.G. Commando[L.O.L.] or ugh, going for an H.D. analogue..

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If you are smart about it and have some hands on resources, you can put together a zesty 1,007cc for well under $10k and have tuning pretty close to where it needs to be. Just use the Steve Maney 1,007c package and go smart on all the ancillaries. You can get away with stock rods if you don't build too aggressive of a motor - most people would be pretty happy with the extra torque of a mildly tuned 1,007cc. Suitable sized used carbs can be had from fleabay or swap meets (snowmobile carbs are good candidates). A good used head with only an enlarged intake valve and port blending will take you quite a ways. Use used stock rockers, spindles, springs and retainers - you are not spinning this motor fast. Exhausts can be off the shelf or have a local craftsman fab up a set. I am reasonably sure there are off the shelf bigger diameter header pipes that follow the stock pipe forms - you do not need to go extremely large.

Many thanks, D.W.S. & others, for providing clear info, & L.A.B. - can we please have a sticky thread with this material included?
I feel that building a stout, robust, liveable Commando iteration - as advised by those who`ve problem solved so diligently,
has got to be the way to go for a classic 4-stroke that is involving & perky - yet not overwhelming or barge-like..

Amazing work on the 1007 that will be one to drool over

Going back to the side-car motors, they were mounted in solid frames, either a Wasp or EML. Vibrated but not an issue on the dirt.

I don't remember breaking a gearbox but the clutch seemed to be the safety link on the drive side

difazio said:

I don't remember breaking a gearbox but the clutch seemed to be the safety link on the drive side

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I suspect being on dirt is very forgiving to the gear box.

Low traction surface does tend to relieve drivetrain loads. BTW does this 1007 have any clutch slip issues with basic Norton or was something special done there too?

" I suspect being on dirt is very forgiving to the gear box. "

depends on the interpretation of ' dirt road ' . but ' Conditions Vary ' .



BEWARE of POTHOLES .











No Air Con , pens & calculators melt on the dash.Like a oven inside. DONT wind down the window.Its HOTTER out there .

Could be worse though .

Yes Grasshopper, when you can prance across rice paper w/o tearing it you too can stay upright on dirt, sand, grass and Gravel to earn a tattoo, but add water for stream bed gravel bars and muddy sections you earn a brand on each arm. One must develop a certain amount of aggressive throttle reflex to keep the front tire from digging in and ruddering you right down. Pull up pilot view video of MX bikes running trails at speed and see how they straight steer. When rear tire power can keep over powering traction somewhat it can also over power depending on front to steer ya down into the ground. Hot shots don't wait for apexes No Sir Ree Bob, they leave spin tracks going in and coming out of turns. Some where during over powered turns the front and rear track lines become separated and can be a real kick getting them back inline suddenly. Bet that 1007 make a great hill climber and sand dune launcher.

There was the BSA Duke Best of British repeated on local TV recently, had a bit of `50s Daytona footage with Gold Stars hammering the roughsandy course, Daytona winner on Norton, D.Klamforth was interviewed, & stated he went to the factory comp' dept to have production changes made for U.S. off road/dirt racing...it seems like in those conditions, the clutch gets a bit hot...

I am still keenly poring over all the lovely fare in this thread, did a set of dyno figures get posted for the big`un?